Hammer options for CC

[oldnfat]

I am looking to but another CC wheel gun. I have an Airweight I pocket carry,(642) but I want something a little bigger to carry IWB. Are exposed hammers that much of a liability in a good IWB holster? Better to bob exposed hammers? Thanks for any info you may care to offer.

[SMSgt]

There is increased risk of the hammer snagging on clothing, but something as simple as training yourself you place your thumb on the hammer when drawing will negate that risk.

[Neumann]

I've had no problems from hammers. You have to practice clearing the cover garment for any handgun. I shield the hammer with my thumb until clear of clothing. An exposed hammer offers a substantial comfort factor if you block the hammer with your thumb when holstering.

No hammer for pocket carry.

[tlay]

I agree, the only time I believe using a no-hammer gun is for a pocket. With proper training a hammer is not a problem for IWB.

[Kanewpadle]

Ruger SP101 Hammerless is the answer.

[tops]

I read that the hammer of Wes Hardins pistol caused his gun to hang up and he was captured and sent to prison. He was a professional and the hammer was a problem. Larry

[Double-O-Dave]

Here are some options for you, along with photos so you can get an idea of my suggestions:

1: A Model 649 is an all (stainless) steel Bodyguard. I think it'w too heavy for (pants) pocket carry, but would be fine in a holster, or a jacket pocket. That extra weight can be nice, too.

2 & 3: If you want to go to a larger frame size than a J-frame, and you're worried about the hammer snagging, one option would be to go to a 3.0 inch barreled K-frame (Model 64-3 pictured) with Bianchi Lightning grips. The Lightning grips can often be found on flea bay (they are long out of production), and give the Model 64 the appearance of a Bodyguard revolver. Also pictured is a J-frame, Model 638 Bodyguard - the Airweight version of the Model 649. I've really grown to appreciate the "humpbacks" due to their versatility. The hammer is fully shrouded, yet is readily available for cocking if the need for a SA shot presents itself. Frankly, I never really imagined a situation where I would thing a SA shot would present itself, until I was walking my dogs one day and a large stray dog came running straight at us to attack. Luckily, I was able to scare the stray away by yelling at it, but I walked away from the incident with the realization that a SA shot may have been exactly the right solution to a problem.

I hope this helps.

Regards,

Dave

[Rpg]

Depends on the leather, not the hammer. You want a holster that has a 'tab' that extends between the revolver and you so the hammer doesn't rest on. Milt Sparks may offer one. Matt DelFatti certainly does (takes time and $ to get the best )

After that, it's proper presentation: drawing your gun properly.

That includes gripping the revolver before you pull it. Takes lots of practice.

World champion IPSC shooters have practiced their presentation hundreds of thousands of times.

You don't have to be world class (I'm certainly not even local class), but you get the idea. Lots of practice (a thousand repetitions)

[hotrod150]

All this talk about a proper draw is all well and good, but when the know-you-what hits the fan, adrenline takes over and that careful thumb-on-the-hammer draw might not happen. A spurred hammer is just one more thing to hinder getting the gun out and into play, maybe while trying to fend off your attacker at the same time. I prefer a bobbed hammer on any concealed-carry revolver, whether it's going into a pocket or a holster. I don't really see a down side to it, as you can still cock or decock the gun manually if you're careful. A Centennial or Bodyguard style revolver is a good choice, but I prefer my bobbed Chiefs.

[tlay]

I read somewhere that it takes 3000 repetitions of something like drawing your gun before it becomes ingrained in your brain so it does not take any thinking to do it. But after that you still have to practice.