As you may have seen in the gunsmithing section, I removed a bobbed hammer because it left me without a more accurate shot (when one shot is all you get).

Yes I know about the funny idea that in some circumstances a cocked hammer means you are determined to shoot the gun.

But picture yourself being cornered, in the dark, and the bad guy has you out-gunned. Also he has already shot and missed.
I think I had better cock the gun, take a bead, and wait for him to spot me.

So anyhow, I need some ideas on how to make the new sharp hammer a little more forgiving when pulling out of a pocket or from an ankle holster.
Right now the serrated top is very sharp and so is the corners of the hammer.

Thanks

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Simply train yourself to place your thumb over the hammer while drawing the gun. It should soon become second nature and has worked perfectly for me. So simple and effective.

Have you fired it yet to make sure everything is working 100% ??

I have no experience with these, but they might be worth considering.

Pocket Safe Hammer Shrouds | Leo Combat

Just take a file then a fine India stone and "knock" the rough edges off the spur. I'd highly recommend leaving the checkering since you are wanting the SA for a SD situation and you don't want the hammer to slip.

I know some folks have problems with it, but I have never had any difficulty cocking a bobbed-hammer revolver for single-action shots. It takes a bit of care, but it is easy and safe to start the hammer back just a fraction with the trigger, place the thumb on the top-front portion of the hammer, release the pressure on the trigger, and complete cocking with the thumb.

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Pisgah

If you don't shoot can you let the hammer back down without shooting? Larry

Sounds like you do and don't want a hammer. Suggest you switch to a Model 38, 49, 638 or 649.

Don't polish the checkering, the hammer is chrome finished.

A full hammer/single action capability creates more problems than it ever solves. Civilian gunfights are primarily reactive and purely defensive in nature. Envisioning proactive defense scenarios where you'll need to cock a revolver with the idea you'll gain some pin-point accuracy so you can act as some type of revolver sniper(even if just for the initial shot) just isn't sensible and realistic. Even if there was some oddball situation where you'd need a single precise shot(I've never come across such a civilian case), if you would for some reason have time to cock a revolver, you'd also have have time to manage the double action trigger. There just isn't any justifiable reason for single action capability on a civilian defense revolver. You should prepare for what is most likely to be the case 99.9999% likely to occur rather than scenarios that are so improbable that they are essentially the realm of fantasy.

Absolutely. Put your thumb in front of the hammer, pull the trigger just enough to trip the sear, REMOVE THE FINGER FROM THE TRIGGER, move the thumb out of the way and let the hammer go forward.

__________________
Pisgah

Hello everyone, I'm Rob Lyman, founder of Leo Combat and maker of the removable hammer shrouds in the above link.

I'm not going to spam your board; I won't post at all unless someone asks me a question. But I'm here to answer questions if you have them.

While my hammer shrouds are intended to address OP's exact problem (which I myself have because my EDC is a 360PD), I do not think they will actually work for OP. As you may know, S&W reprofiled the J-frame to add the frame lock, and at the moment I only offer shrouds meant to fit revolvers in current production.

They must ABSOLUTELY NOT be used on older revolvers from the pre-lock era. They will prevent it from firing double-action until removed.

I intend to expand my lineup eventually but that only requires two things: time and money.

Thanks and stay safe.

Going to the gun club tomorrow. I will put 25 rounds through it. Thanks

Daniel, I think you are probably correct, but what is wrong with having both capabilities?

PS, the other reason (not the main reason) I bought a new hammer is because when I bobbed the first one I actually cut into the firing pin pocket. It shot fine but I worried about it being weakened.

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I'm a big advocate of snub revolvers for defense purposes, especially the concealed hammer versions. I think they make a lot sense because civilian defense almost always involves a few quick shots at close range. You're giving up some things by going with an exposed hammer version. A snag free draw is something that's obvious, but the hammer also has the potential to snag during a ECQ(extreme close quarter) scenario. Dirt, lint and debris can easily find it's way into the action of a hammered revolver, especially in cases of pocket and ankle carry. Not only that, but it can also be blocked during a disarm attempt or become entangled in clothing during a physical struggle. It also offers a hook for leverage should a assailant get ahold of your gun trying to disarm you. You lose the ability to fire from inside a jacket pocket or purse. You give up not being able to take high grip on the backstrap and you give up a better double action trigger as the S&W Centennials have the best one among the J-Frames. Hammer Or? ?-Less??Guns Magazine.com | Guns Magazine.com

An exposed hammer can also inadvertently be cocked during a adrenaline filled tense defense situation and prosecutors have been known to make such an accusation even without evidence. There's simply no reason to over complicate your training and tactics by introducing the idea that single action might theoretically be an asset in contrived scenarios that are not very likely and trade away a feature(DAO/enclosed hammer) that will likely offer an advantage in an actual self-defense situation.

A snub is my 24/7 gun and also plays primary home defense duty. I have other guns(Glocks;I think a handgun is still best for clearing a home alone, maneuverability, moving to family member leaving one hand free for operating phone, light switches etc. ) should I have sufficient warning and lead time, but the snub is what's always with me and immediately accessible. A lots of folks think they will have more time in a home invasion scenario, but that often isn't the case. And don't think weapon retention can't be an issue at home as many of them involve CQ contact, fighting, grappling even when guns are part of the equation... http://www.denverpost.com/ci_2365672...home-invasions

Thanks Daniel, I read the articles.

Since I am stuck with only being able to carry these 2 guns for the next two years (a Ca. rule) I might have the new hammer bobbed professionally and not cut into the firing pin socket (like I did before)

Well Sarge, I assume you're a grown *** man and capable of making your own decisions especially when it comes to protecting your life and the lives of your loved ones however, I can't think of a single realistic scenario where I would cock a revolver hammer in a defensive situation. We get questions here in the store like this everyday and if you were here asking me I would suggest that you spend more time getting comfortable shooting your revolvers double action. I've shot tens of thousands of revolver rounds many at high speed and I don't ever remember a revolver that, "short chucks" if you get in a hurry and don't allow the trigger to fully return". Look at some of Jerry Miculec's videos and how fast he shoots and I don't think he has that problem. I have played with a few of Jerry's revolvers and the actions while smooth are not as light as one might expect. The springs feel stock cause when you're shooting that fast you can't afford a light primer strike. Also you might want to rethink this: I think I had better cock the gun, take a bead, and wait for him to spot me. By the time he "spots me" I hope to have several rounds placed on target. I'm not trying to bust your chops and if I have offended you please accept my apology and forget what I just wrote. Good luck and stay safe.

As long as your converting them to DAO and bobbing the hammer, they're fine IMO. The bobbed hammer snubs do have some things going for them such as a slightly slimmer profile and I believe a little bit lighter than the enclosed and shrouded hammer models. You can also re holster with thumb on back of hammer for a little added safety(not really an issue, but many like to do it). You can also perform a loaded cylinder rotation check. Not a big deal to me, but to some it is. Snub expert Michael DeBethencourt actually prefers a shrouded hammer/bodyguard converted to DAO for that very reason.

FWIW, when it comes to my personal preference in self-defense J-frames a DAO Bodyguard would be a very close second to a Centennial.

And speaking of Mr. deBethencourt, you may want to contact him via snubtraining.com if you're still interested in retaining the hammer spur whether you go DAO or not. Some years ago he purchased the remaining inventory of bolt-on hammer shrouds manufactured by Waller and Sons. They bolt onto the gun's frame and give a Bodyguard-style profile. He may still have some available. It wouldn't hurt to ask.

I checked them out, looks interesting