Greetings. I just picked up a police trade-in 4506-1 with night sights in excellent condition. Internally, the gun is darn near perfect but it has some holster wear. How should I go about polishing the frame?
Any info would be greatly appreciated.

P.S. I got the gun and everything in the picture for $400.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: jdwhite2003,

jdwhite2003:

Welcome to the Forum!

I like a grey DuPont ScotchBrite pad and use a little gun oil and merely go with the grain, if you can see it. The results have been darn remarkable -- the satin stainless of the S&Ws buff to the original finish and blend away holster scuffs and even most scratches.

The ScotchBrite pads can be purchased at a high quality paint store. They're designed to prepare autos for painting. Different folks have used different grades (colors) but the grey works great for me on each of the S&Ws I've done.

Do NOT use these pads on any gun alloy parts and/or bead-blasted areas. IMHO, your 4506 frame and slide are both satin stainless without any beadblasted areas, but let the user beware!

Your results may vary, so start with a small corner first.

I've used the green ScotchBrite pads from the grocery store on my 5906 and 5946.

Light sanding left a shinny surface. Hard sanding will leave grain marks.

Thanks for the info. I looked at other threads about using Mothers, but I only saw that in reference to revolvers. I guess I will have to get one of those next. First the 39-2, then the 4506-1...

BTW, was $400 bucks a good deal for all that? The 4506-1 was one of the first real guns (i.e. not a .22) that I shot so I have been trying to get my hands on mine for awhile because my stepdad refuses to sell me his. I now know why.

Welcome to the Forum jdwhite2003!

Yes. $400 for the that set up is right on.
If you use Mothers it will some what polish up the metal. Being as it has a satin finnish it won't do much unless you work on it with a buffing wheel. I would just use some ScotchBrite pads and leave the satin finnish. The 4506 is a great .45. Enjoy!

I've used the green scotch brite pads with great success, and I have a couple of maroon color ones that work well, too. If you use the pads with gun oil, then follow up with a light touch of Mother's, you get a decent satiny finish. I also took Mothers and a lot of elbow grease and polished the barrel of my 4566...I'll try to post pictures later on, but this is a thing of beauty now.

if you have access to a machine shop or someone with a blast cabinet with glass beads.

40psi setting. start at about 12" away and work you way in to get the desired finish.

will give damn near if not perfect factory blending.

NOT Aluminum Oxide. I have no time behind an air gun with AO! has to be glass beads.

Thanks for all the advice. I will try out the Scotch brite pads and see how it works.

jdwhite2003:

Just read your comment about Mothers and revolvers -- the satin stainless of S&W semi-autos is DIFFERENT than the satin stainless of the S&W revolvers. Revolvers are much more shiny to begin with and the Scotchbrite is NOT recommended for them.

Post your results after you clean up your new gun.

I use a Dremel and an abrasive wheel...

The lighter, purple wheel will maintain and blwnd the blasted finish. I use this on the rounds.

The heavier or stiffer beige wheel will give you the a nice, even, brushed finish on the flats in no time...