A while back, I got two 1006s from a guy who'd been using them for bowling pin matches.

Because of tight finances, I really haven't rung these pistols out as well as I would have liked -- and therefore, I can't say I have complete confidence in them yet.

(However, I'm pretty sure they're both as reliable as the sunrise -- as every S&W 10mm I've ever shot much has been...)

On single action, both pistols make a worrisome popping sound as the trigger is just beginning to be pulled...

Thoughts on what I need to look for or consider?

Both have functioned perfectly so far, but that "pop" worries me. I've never heard it before acquiring these two pistols...

What might be happening?

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Outrider,

http://smith-wessonforum.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/520103904/m/2251018803

Yep, yep. May only need retensioned, but replacement isn't expensive. There's a product improved version that doesn't look like a tuning fork. Much better than original design.

quote:

Originally posted by SW CQB 45:
http://smith-wessonforum.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/520103904/m/2251018803

CQB 45,

I knew somebody was going to do that -- and I figured it would be you....

Thanks...

I initially overlooked where you described this same problem on the gritty trigger thread...Sorry! Thanks for the direction...

Once again I must say that SW CQB 45 helped me with this same problem. CQB......You are the man!
Thank you,
Gearl

quote:

Originally posted by WR Moore:
Yep, yep. May only need retensioned, but replacement isn't expensive. There's a product improved version that doesn't look like a tuning fork. Much better than original design.

Do you have any details or links on this?

Who makes it? Thanks!

quote:

Originally posted by Outrider:

quote:

Originally posted by WR Moore:
Yep, yep. May only need retensioned, but replacement isn't expensive. There's a product improved version that doesn't look like a tuning fork. Much better than original design.

Do you have any details or links on this?

Who makes it? Thanks!

I believe he means there are two types of trigger play springs.

the one I show in the image is the two finger type, and there is another type which may be the improved version which has a finger across the top joining the two fingers together.

they do the same job, the latter spring appears and is probably stronger.

quote:

Originally posted by SW CQB 45:

quote:

Originally posted by Outrider:

quote:

Originally posted by WR Moore:
Yep, yep. May only need retensioned, but replacement isn't expensive. There's a product improved version that doesn't look like a tuning fork. Much better than original design.

Do you have any details or links on this?

Who makes it? Thanks!

I believe he means there are two types of trigger play springs.

the one I show in the image is the two finger type, and there is another type which may be the improved version which has a finger across the top joining the two fingers together.

they do the same job, the latter spring appears and is probably stronger.

Does Smith have the second type?

When sending a pistol back to Smith, is it best to go through their regular customer service -- or go straight to the Performance Center?

(Some guys have said they sent pistols to the Performance Center -- and felt they got more of what they wanted -- even on simple things like this -- than going to regular customer service...)

(I always thought that was odd...)

Both my 1006 & 1086 has the cross-bar type and it would be my guess that they are current design or original and non-crossbar type is a gunsmith replacement.

The reason I say this is when I bought each gun I called S&W about history of repair or recall and if they were LEO guns. Neither gun showed up as ever being sent back to S&W for repairs. Both guns have OUTSTANDING triggers for DA guns with '06 getting close to 1911 in SA and the '86 better the most S&W revolvers.