This happens only the sa pull. It it coming from the spring in front of the trigger(trigger return spring is it?). Cleaned with gun scrubber and light lube. Did not help. Is this normal? New gun to me.Any advice helpful.

No, it's not normal. There is a part down in the frame near the trigger return spring (I believe it looks like a flat clip of some sort) that cracks or breaks. I'm very sorry I cannot locate my schematics or I could nail it down for you. Anyway, check it out with some more research maybe from other forum members. They'll eventually get this resolved for you.

TRIGGER PLAY SPRING SOUNDS TO BE BROKEN. IT IS ATTACHED TO THE TOP OF THE DRAWBAR. CHECK BROWNELLS OF THE PARTS DRAWING. JP

here ya go

quote:

Originally posted by JLROOT:
This happens only the sa pull. It it coming from the spring in front of the trigger(trigger return spring is it?). Cleaned with gun scrubber and light lube. Did not help. Is this normal? New gun to me.Any advice helpful.

does the trigger click on SA after you first depress the trigger?

after the click, are the trigger issues gone?

if you trigger the gun and never release the trigger and only allow to the point of reset, is there still grittyness on SA?

if so, its your trigger play spring. its either out of adjustment or broke off. its the small L shaped spring that is riveted to the front of the trigger bar.

Thanks for the replies. The brass looking l shaped spring seems to be intact. It does have a definate click right at the beginning of the S/A pull. There is a lot uf upward movement in the whole assembly. Don't know if I should thake it apart. How hard is it? Looks like 1 pin to me. Thanks for any advice.

if the spring is there, then its out of adjustment.

if you notice on the pic, the spring is not touching the hammer hooks,

so place it dbl action with the slide removed.

take a pencil, eraser side and gently bump the vertical portion of the spring fwd.

dont give it too much bend as it will break.

just bump forward and cock the hammer to see if the trigger is loose in SA.

keep bumping it fwd till it will hold the trigger hooks into the V notch of the trigger bar. the click is from the trigger hooks snapping into the v notch since the trigger play spring is not keeping the slack out.

its called the trigger play spring. its only function is to take up slack in SA. If you continously shoot your piece and never take your finger off the trigger and only move fwd to the point of reset, you will never know its gone.

good luck

I had this exact same problem with a used 4506 that I picked up at my local gun dealer. I called S&W about this and was told that was normal operation. They couldn't help me.

I went back to this dealer and he called S&W about it. They sent him a prepaid shipper to send it back to the factory. I got it back in about a month with a repair ticket stating that the draw bar was replaced. If I hadn't been doing business with this local dealer, I guess I would just have to eat the loss.
Scooter2

Scooter,

Did that fix the problem?

BTW, what's a "draw" bar? Can anyone provide photos?

I have two 1006s I got from the same guy -- and both of them make a "pop" sound as you take up the trigger on single action...

I've never known another 1006 to do that -- and both of mine do...

here is a cutaway, but its not a good pic of the draw bar or trigger bar.

the part that is out of adjustment or the spring is broken off are the trigger play spring.

they are designed to keep the SA trigger from flopping around. if you shoot your 10's and only release the trigger to the point of reset and no further, you will never know these springs are missing or out of adjustment.

if you look at my image above (on a previous post), the arrow is pointing to the trigger play spring.

if the spring is there, it is suppose to ride on the back of the trigger hooks (in single action only) to keep the hooks inside the Vnotch on the front of draw bar. you can see that image on the cut away.

I actually shot a match with my trigger play spring missing.

in the above image, the trigger play spring is gold in color and is riveted to the drawbar. if you look to its left, you can see the trigger hooks inside the Vnotch of the drawbar.

if the spring is out of adjustment, take a pencil (eraser end) and keeping the action in DA, bump the L shaped trigger play spring forward (slight pressure). too much and you might break it.

then test by cocking the hammerand see if the trigger hooks are riding in the Vnotch of the drawbar.

if you apply slight pressure to the trigger (dont let the hammer fall) and if the trigger play spring is out of adjustment or missing, you will see and hear the trigger hooks snapping into the Vnotch.

the spring is only suppose to ride up against the back of the trigger hooks, so only bend in slight increments and check your work.

if broke off, its an easy fix, but have to take down the internals.

good luck

quote:

Outrider

Outrider
Yes, the problem was gone when I got the gun back. Just like new.
Scooter2

I found this old pic of my alloy CQB. It was a 2 day CQB class I took several years ago. it was over 800 rounds (both days)

the image may be fuzzy, but you can make it out. I shot the entire class without a trigger play spring. rivet and spring is missing.

you can see the back of what I call the trigger hooks and the Vnotch in the trigger bar where the hooks actually ride.

Copy of comment I posted here in another thread:

Both my 1006 & 1086 has the cross-bar type and it would be my guess that they are current design or original and non-crossbar type is a gunsmith replacement.

The reason I say this is when I bought each gun I called S&W about history of repair or recall and if they were LEO guns. Neither gun showed up as ever being sent back to S&W for repairs. Both guns have OUTSTANDING triggers for DA guns with '06 getting close to 1911 in SA and the '86 better the most S&W revolvers.

Old Navy... I'm curious, I've never heard the term cross-bar versus non cross-bar type regarding 3rd gen pistols. Can you elaborate?

The trigger play spring started life as with two fingers sticking up. It led to many cracked and broken fingers. To strengthen the little guy, the "cross-bar" type that Old Navy mentions is a later revision. It adds significant strength to the piece. It also is less likely to get caught and damaged during agressive cleaning. Based on my looking at many, many 3rd gen pistols, it seems the new design came along a little after 1992. FWIW