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I purchased a parkerized 4" .38 S&W Special Military & Police, pre model 10, s/n S 8429**. I am asking for help with the date of manufacturing and if it's possible this was a factory parkerization. Also, is it true +P is not an option? Photos on the way. Tks.


These are only hints and guesses . . . TS Eliot
 
Posts: 17 | Location: Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania | Registered: 29 June 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Photo added.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: kutch47,


These are only hints and guesses . . . TS Eliot
 
Posts: 17 | Location: Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania | Registered: 29 June 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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That is nice! I love those M&P's
There is something about plane jane guns that do it for me.


I shot a man in Reno, just to watch him die...
 
Posts: 200 | Location: Chicago Suburbs | Registered: 01 July 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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That is a 1946 gun. It almost certainly shipped in blue, not the finish it currently wears. The refinished look of the hammer hints at that too. So does the lack of a clear turn line. It is hard to go 60+ years (and loose your original grips on the way) and not be shot enough to make a clear turn line. What do the faces of the ejector star pawls look like? In the white, or finished, too? If in the white, it might be factory, but the odds are very slim.

As to +P, just like religion, that is for you and your conscience. If I took it to the range and shot 50 rounds a week through it, I'd not use +P. If I wanted to load some decnt .38 HP +P in it and put it in a Victory shoulder holster and use it in the woods, or leave it in a nighstand drawer, I would have no fear. The cylinders were heat treated starting in the early 20s. I have a victory and a 1947 commercial, and I don't seat an occasional +p round, though I don't shoot them that often.


Physics 101: "Velocity" is speed and direction. Otherwise it's just "speed."
 
Posts: 2052 | Location: Seattle-ish | Registered: 05 October 2007Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Kamerer
Thank you for the great info. So, a 1946 gun, and it's not the original finish. And not the original grips? . . . well, these are all beat-up (with splinters!), so I guess a new set are in the future. The star is not white, but gray. Finally, I think I'll take your advise and not shoot the +P, but I will load it for defense. Excellent help!
quote:
Originally posted by Kamerer:
That is a 1946 gun. It almost certainly shipped in blue, not the finish it currently wears. The refinished look of the hammer hints at that too. So does the lack of a clear turn line. It is hard to go 60+ years (and loose your original grips on the way) and not be shot enough to make a clear turn line. What do the faces of the ejector star pawls look like? In the white, or finished, too? If in the white, it might be factory, but the odds are very slim.

As to +P, just like religion, that is for you and your conscience. If I took it to the range and shot 50 rounds a week through it, I'd not use +P. If I wanted to load some decnt .38 HP +P in it and put it in a Victory shoulder holster and use it in the woods, or leave it in a nighstand drawer, I would have no fear. The cylinders were heat treated starting in the early 20s. I have a victory and a 1947 commercial, and I don't seat an occasional +p round, though I don't shoot them that often.
 
Posts: 17 | Location: Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania | Registered: 29 June 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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If your only issue with the grips is being rough, you can strip the remaining finish off them with a chemical paint stripper. An old tooth brush helps to remove the clear finish from the checkering. Once that is done, some light sanding to your satisfaction is easy. Finish with some linseed oil cut with turpentine. Original grips might be a tad expensive, and even a new version of what you have is not cheap these days.

If you want something to hang onto between the trigger guard and the frame, Tyler T-grip adaptors work well and are not that expensive. Just a thought.
 
Posts: 82 | Location: Port Angeles, Wa | Registered: 09 February 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Pedersoli,

Great suggestions! I looked at the Tyler T-grips and they look good, and might improve my shooting. I've never seen a set of black wood grips, but I just might paint these old guys and add a black Tyler's.
 
Posts: 17 | Location: Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania | Registered: 29 June 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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one of my Victory's, non original grips, laynard ring removed but its is one of my favorite shooter, added the t-grips(like I do to most of mine) and it fits my large(not huge hand) great

 
Posts: 1075 | Location: Gig Harbor WA | Registered: 29 September 2007Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Now that's a nice looking gat! Ah, if only mine was as beautiful Frowner. Thanks for the envy.


These are only hints and guesses . . . TS Eliot
 
Posts: 17 | Location: Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania | Registered: 29 June 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Also, a used set of firestones is on the way: Pach'y Gripper Grips. I've yet to fire this gal. If you notice a hugh sliver of wood about 8 o'clock of the left side of the S&W emblem, that would seem to distract from the joy of shooting. Oh, and the other side is even worse. All is forgiven if she shoots to POA. Maybe this is a Cinderella story in the making. Wink
 
Posts: 17 | Location: Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania | Registered: 29 June 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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