PLEASE only post FAQ information here. No generic replies.

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This message has been edited. Last edited by: BigBores,

Post-war "Helpful Hints" brochure.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: BigBores,

3, 4 and 5 Screw Frames

One of the terms one hears fairly often when dealing with older S&W guns is whether the gun has a 3, 4 or 5 screw frame. This refers to the number of screws attaching the sideplate (3 or 4) and the presence of a screw on the front of the trigger guard (referred to, logically enough, as the trigger guard screw). Before the mid-1950's, S&W revolvers were made with all 5 screws, 4 sideplate screws and the trigger guard screw:


Around 1955/56, S&W began producing guns without the upper sideplate screw, resulting in a 4 screw frame (3 sideplate screws and the trigger guard screw):


Then, in the 1961/62 timeframe, S&W eliminated the triger guard screw, using just the 3 sideplate screws and resulting in the 3 screw frame that continues to be used on current production guns:


The dates given are approximate and mostly apply to K and N frame guns. The small frame guns went through a similar progression of 5 to 4 to 3 screws as well during a similar timeframe, so 3, 4 or 5 screw frame designation is valid these guns also.

Note as well that some early AirWeight guns had a "bug screw" set next to the upper sideplate screw (screw #5 in the first picture), purportedly to prevent the upper sideplate screw from loosening with use. And finally, there were limited runs in the 1990's (Heritage guns and??) that revived the use of the upper sideplate screw (although not the trigger guard screw).

Generally speaking though, when the terms 3, 4 or 5 screw are used they are meant to differentiate the 1950's / early 60's guns as detailed above.

I've attempted to share my limited knowledge for the benefit of those who are new to our hobby, and I'm probably better at taking pictures than relating S&W history. So, if anyone can correct my explaination or offer additional insight, please feel free to do so!

Bill

Found this while surfing tonight

L Frame (Models 581, 586, 681, 686) recall info from 1987. Phone numbers have been deleted because they are not current numbers.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: 624 Fan,

Here are some links to owner's manuals. These are PDF files and may take some time on dialup. They are located at "Steve's Pages."

http://www.stevespages.com/page7b.htm

These will require Acrobat or Adobe reader.

http://www.adobe.com/products/acrobat/readstep2_allversions.html

This message has been edited. Last edited by: wheelgun1958,

Exploded drawings of all types.

http://www.mek-schuetzen.de/Sites/Explosion.htm

Here's a link to "Digital Guns Pics 101".

Here's a neat site about revolvers and how they work. Once you get to this site, scroll down and click on the trigger in the diagram:

http://people.howstuffworks.com/revolver2.htm

Of course no S&W faq would be complete without some pics of bare butts ! Ray

The topic of "flame cutting" seems to come up quite often. I found a couple of really good definitions from two of our members here on this forum so I pieced them together.

Flame cutting refers to the visible straight line cut above the barrel, inside the frame, where the top strap meets the front portion of the frame. In most models, the flame cutting stops after it reaches a certain depth and is not a thing to cause concern. It's caused by the flame from the burning powder as it ignites and burns off.

All powders will flame cut, no matter what weight of bullet or charge. You can minimize flame cutting with the right combination and of course maximize flame cutting with the wrong combination.

First, a light bullet escapes from the case sooner than a heavier bullet, just from the laws of physics. Second, a slow burning powder reaches its peak pressure (also peak heat) slower than a faster burning powder. Third, when large charges of powder are used, pressure and heat get intense. When these three elements are coupled together (slow powder, heavy charge, and a light bullet) you get peak pressure just as the base of the bullet is flush with the forcing cone. This creates the worst case condition for flame cutting.

A combination such as a 110gr bullet and a healthy charge of W-296 or H-110 will surely be the worst combination for a 357 Mag. The same powder with a 158gr bullet will still produce a little flame cutting but not enough to worry about.

38 Specials rarely suffer from flame cutting unless the reloader is using some pretty hot loads with light bullets. That's because the powder charge is much less, thus lower pressure and heat. Stay with the faster powders and you won't have a problem.

Powder manufacturers produce quite a variety of powders intended to provide optimum performance in most any load. By selecting the powder with the proper burn rate for your load, you will see better accuracy, less fouling, tighter velocity spreads, and less flame cutting. If you look at a reloading manual chart, you can easily see the powders that produce a given velocity with the minimum powder will be the fastest burning. Likewise, the powders that take a heavier charge for the same velocity are slower burning. A good rule of thumb is to select the fastest powder that will give you the desired velocity, yet stay under max pressure limits. Powder burn rate charts are great but there is one thing missing. Each powder will burn at a different rate based on the weight of the bullet it is pushing, the diameter of the bullet, and the capacity of the case. Your reloading manual is always the best source of information for burn rate with your cartridge and bullet.

The same holds true with 357 Magnum loads, however to reach magnum velocities, you must use slower powder or your chamber pressure will be too high. Personally, I don't shoot any bullets lighter than 140 grains when I want magnum velocities. Avoiding the lighter bullets reduces flame cutting a lot.

The best thing a reloader can do is match the powder to the cartridge and bullet. There is no single powder that is best for all uses.

Link to table of S&W MODEL DESIGNATIONS:
http://www.handloads.com/misc/Smith.Model.Changes.asp

Link to info on beginning S&W research:
http://armchairgunshow.com/swinfo.htm

S&W Collector Association home page, with link to how to order a FACTORY LETTER:
http://theswca.org/

Info on CONDITION GRADING FOR FIREARMS:
http://armchairgunshow.com/Condition-NRA-Guns.htm

Shameless plug & order info for Standard Catalog of S&W:
http://armchairgunshow.com/scsw.htm

Frame sizes
Link to description of frame sizes: http://armchairgunshow.com/SWHE-info.html

From the newer Smith & Wesson "Modern Revolvers" manual:

Common question: How do I clean a my new revolver?

http://attrition.org/technical/firearms/357clean/

http://www.geocities.com/kemays/cleanrev.html