Here is a picture of a 686-3 L frame 357 mag under the hood. It gives the user an idea of what the action looks like. The hammer block has been removed for the picture.

quote:

Gun stocks or grips

500 Magnum Nut,

Can you add picture and description of Magna grips to your FAQ post? Thanks.

Thank you 500 Magnum Nut, but I have to admit still being confused as to what the difference is between Magna/Service grips and Checkered Target grips.

quote:

Originally posted by perpster:
what the difference is between Magna/Service grips and Checkered Target grips.

The magna/service is the basic no frills wooden grip, which is excellent for carry. (Like a police gun).

The target (smooth or checkered) are much larger and wider at the bottom. Some shooters hate this style of grip as it's too big for smaller hands.

Disassembly of Mainspring

Modern revolvers have 2 types of mainsprings, leaf and coil.

Leaf mainspring:
Remove the strain screw. Disconnect the mainspring from the hammer stirrup and lift out the mainspring.

Coil mainspring:
Cock the hammer to single action. Place a pin in hole of mainspring guide. Release from single action. Remove coil assembly. Remove pin.

Hammer Block Location

When removing the side plate, some members get into a bind when something falls out.
This slender bar is called the hammer block. When replacing the hammer block, it will sit exactly like the picture shown. All the way up on the rebound slide pin.

This picture is of my 500, but the hammer block location is the same on ALL model revolvers.

I would like to thank all on this forum for posting this type of info. As of 28Dec06, S&W has my 629. Hopefully I'll get it back.

quote:

Originally posted by JT:
624/629 Cylinder Recall

The Skeeter Skelton article in the October 1985 issue of Shooting Times magazine stated: "A steel supplier has just advised Smith & Wesson that they shipped a very small quantity of incorrect stainless steel material (11 bars) to us that was not in accordance with their certifications. The incorrect material was used in the cylinders for some large-frame stainless-steel revolvers, Model Numbers 624 (.44 Special) and 629 (.44 Magnum). The approximately 500 units containing this material were shipped from Smith & Wesson between January 1, 1985 and June 8, 1985. They would be included in the following ranges of serial numbers: ADXXXXX, AEXXXXX, AFXXXXX, AGXXXXX, AHXXXXX, ALVXXXX, N910000 thru N953000."

Skeeter goes on to say that the bad cylinder steel caused the recall of about 21,000 guns to find 500 with improper steel.

Today, Kate Fredette of Smith & Wesson basically confirmed this same info. The serial number range includes:

ADXXXX
AEXXXX
AFXXXX
AGXXXX
AHXXXX
ALVXXX (the “V” is not a typo)
N910000 thru N953000

Recalled guns were shipped between Jan 1, 1985 and June 8, 1985 only. The cylinder has to be checked on these handguns and the only way to know is by checking the full serial number against their records. The problem involves 500 guns shipped during that period.

If a handgun in the recalled range has already been returned to the factory for testing, a red letter “C” that is circled will be stamped on the box label, indicating that the gun passed re-inspection. No marks are made on the cylinder of checked guns, only the red “C” in the circle stamped on the box label.

If your gun is within this range and you do not have a box or know for certain that it has been tested, you should contact Smith & Wesson. S&W’s records prior to 1986 are not computerized, so it takes them a little longer to look up the particulars.

You can E-mail your gun’s serial number to: qa@smith-wesson.com. S&W will contact you regarding the status of your particular gun. If your gun is included in the recall, you'll be sent a prepaid FedEx label and shipping instructions. While E-mail is best, you may also call S&W Customer Support at 1-800-331-0852.

Recalled cylinders are tested by magnafluxing. If your recalled gun does fail, there are no replacement cylinders. S&W will keep your gun and you will be offered the choice of another handgun of equal value or a refund. However, only one gun has failed the test so far … apparently the one sent in by our own dogdoc from Alabama. He says he was offered a 629 as a replacement.

I hope this clears the recall questions up once and for all.

Removing Rear Blade

To swap the rear blade:

When changing the rear blade on S&W revolvers, turn the windage screw clockwise until the screw breaks. Then remove the nut by unscrewing if from the base. Use a plastic bag to catch the tiny spring and plunger that is located inside the screw head.

Reinstall the parts and tighten the retaining nut fully then back it off ¼ turn. Use the stacking tool and crimp the nut. Job done!

Tools look like this:

Rebuild kit looks like this:

This message has been edited. Last edited by: 500 Magnum Nut,

Check Sing


In a panic situation, the hand could skip by a ratchet, and the gun won’t fire.

Press trigger back enough to clear the cylinder stop, then spin cylinder. Listen for the hand clicking on the ratchets.

Press back and left = Left sing
Press back and right = Right sing
Press back straight = Neutral sing

If your right handed you normally pull the trigger to the right.

If no right sing: Bend hand over to right side of the window. To do this simply insert screwdriver underneath the hand and lift upward.

If no left sing: You will have to remove hand and tap it with a hammer to bend the hand over to the left side of the window.

The third way it could be out, where you can’t correct the right or left sing, the hand is twisted.

Ideally, you want the gun to sing no matter how the trigger is pulled. New guns may not be adjusted proper, either. Check yours for fun...

500 Magnum custom compensator


S&W doesn’t sell a break with no holes for the 500, (like the 460 Magnum) so I modified a 460 into a 500.

This is how I did it:

Face the back of the compensator off .02 with a lathe. Maintain the shoulder outside step at .04 and the over all length of .905 long.

Bore the inside first shoulder step back .02. The inside diameter is .805 so don’t over cut this dimension as it aligns up on the front of the barrel.

Then bore the hole thru at least to .531 so that big slug can find it’s way out. I made mine a little bigger at .550 inch.

It locks up snug in my revolver and it looks factory but it’s not!

quote:

Originally posted by 500 Magnum Nut:
500 Magnum custom compensator


S&W doesn’t sell a break with no holes for the 500, (like the 460 Magnum) so I modified a 460 into a 500.

This is how I did it:

Face the back of the compensator off .02 with a lathe. Maintain the shoulder outside step at .04 and the over all length of .905 long.

Bore the inside first shoulder step back .02. The inside diameter is .805 so don’t over cut this dimension as it aligns up on the front of the barrel.

Then bore the hole thru at least to .531 so that big slug can find it’s way out. I made mine a little bigger at .550 inch.

It locks up snug in my revolver and it looks factory but it’s not!

Excellant work. Now, how much for us technically challenged folks.

Actually, I recognize quality work, retired machinist here. Must be nice to have a mill and lathe to complete hobbies.

Or maybe, I shouldn't assume it's a hobby. Pro gunsmith maybe?

Anyway, good explanation of your work. I appreciate it...

Need some member help!
I have a 3 1/2 inch model 27
serial number S240XXX
can anyone tell me the year of MFG???
Thanks

Greetings,

Was perusing the forum looking for mfg dates for my new Model 14 when I ran across this post on "singing". I've never heard of singing in a revolver context? Can you enlighten me?

First I made sure the post wasn't made on April Fools day;-))

Ron

quote:

Originally posted by 500 Magnum Nut:
Check Sing


In a panic situation, the hand could skip by a ratchet, and the gun won’t fire.

Press trigger back enough to clear the cylinder stop, then spin cylinder. Listen for the hand clicking on the ratchets.

Press back and left = Left sing
Press back and right = Right sing
Press back straight = Neutral sing

If your right handed you normally pull the trigger to the right.

If no right sing: Bend hand over to right side of the window. To do this simply insert screwdriver underneath the hand and lift upward.

If no left sing: You will have to remove hand and tap it with a hammer to bend the hand over to the left side of the window.

The third way it could be out, where you can’t correct the right or left sing, the hand is twisted.

Ideally, you want the gun to sing no matter how the trigger is pulled. New guns may not be adjusted proper, either. Check yours for fun...

quote:

Originally posted by thwkman:
I've never heard of singing in a revolver context? Can you enlighten me?

Have you ever pulled the trigger back quick and it didn't cycle? The hand may skip by a ratchet. It's not common but it could happen. In the S&W armorer's manual they don't mention this, but AGI does (American Gunsmithing Institute). It's where I was learned the technique.

If you gently pull back the trigger until the cylinder stop clears and unlocks the cylinder give your cylinder a spin (counter clock wise). You will hear the hand clicking on the ratchets.
In a properly tuned trigger assembly, you should hear sing no matter how the trigger is pulled. Pull the trigger to the left, pull it to the right or pulled straight back.

It's a way of fine tuning your S&W revolvers.

DETAIL STRIP

Find a perfect fitting screwdriver.

Remove the grip.

Unscrew all the screws on the side plate, don't mix them up.

Roll gun over, push the thumb latch in and open the cylinder.

Slide yoke and cylinder off the frame, go easy not to scratch it.

Roll gun back and find a plastic hammer and tap the frame (near where the grips would be) and the side plate will come loose.

Remove slide plate.

Lift out the hammer block (sheet metal part with a hole on one end, hook on the other).

Loosen strain screw and remove main spring. (J frame insert cotter pin into hole, remove from stirrup).

Pull thumb piece to rear. Press trigger to cock hammer, lift hammer up and off the stud.

Find a screwdriver, and pry the rebound slide off the stud, rebound spring and stem will fly out so keep a finger over opening.

Pull back the hand to clear window, then wiggle trigger off the stud.

You can remove the cylinder stop and bolt but the gains are not worth the trouble.

But if you must, then flip gun over and unscrew thumb piece.

Flip gun back, pull bolt to rear and lift out of frame, watch out for plunger and tiny spring.

Pry out spring for cylinder stop, let the stop drop down and remove stop.

Reverse the operation to put it back together. Find a special rebound slide tool to put the rebound spring back on. It looks like this:



Remember all the guns from J frame to X are nearly all the same internally.

The hammer block sits all the way up before the slide plate goes back on. One end sits on the stud of the rebound slide, the other end sits in front of the hammer. Picture of 500:


Here is a picture of a 686 without the hammer block:



CYLINDER DETAIL STRIP

Once the cylinder in on the table it can be totally taken apart.
Guns which are about 40 years and newer the ejector rod is counter-clockwise. Older than this the threads are clockwise.

Place empty cartridges into the cylinder.

Using a drill chuck, turn extractor rod and unscrew it. (Don't mar the knurl on the end)
There are 2 springs inside, a collar, center pin and the ratchet. Keep finger pressure on the ejector rod so the springs don't fly off the table.

Reassemble in the reverse order. You don't need lock tite on the threads.

You could use a tool like this instead of the drill chuck, if you prefer:


X FRAME CLYINDER:
Here is a picture of what the parts look like.



To disassemble: turn knurled end clockwise, remove nut and slide the yoke off. Be careful not to mar the knurl. I use a clothes pin under pliers.
Then using a drill chuck, turn extractor rod clockwise to remove the extractor assembly.

(all threads are counter-clockwise)

Here is a picture of all the J frame parts spread out for your pleasure.


The larger frames K,L & N have an additional part called the extractor rod collar. This part shows in the earlier diagram of the model 29 I posted earlier.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: 500 Magnum Nut,