I would also inject the fact that your 1968 "D" Range numbers are also not exact since I have a Model 10-5 with Serial Number D 87,7XX and was it shipped on February 25, 1969 per Factory Letters. And, yes, I did say Letters since I have four(4) of them. And, each of them shows the same shipping date. MAK

quote:

Originally posted by 500 Magnum Nut:
To correct push off

The hammer notch must be square, sharp and not rounded. It's only .005 inch tall so use a eye loupe to inspect it. Use a new stone to true it up, if it's not square. (I like ceramic stones for this) Then after the hammer is proper, stoning the trigger will correct the push off.

Remember use a 6 inch long stone. Changing the stone length will affect the trigger pull.



To test the trigger hook, you scrap it on your thumb nail. If nail is scraped off, you got it sharpened correctly.

If you want a lighter single action pull, you dull the angle by lightly stoning the angle parallel to the table top.

Does the diagram depict the 'trigger hook' in contact with the base of the stone? When you refer to the 'hammer notch', is that the part of the hammer that rests inside/comes into contact with the trigger hook? Sorry for 'dumb' questions.

I have a J-frame model 49. I want to smooth out the trigger pull without changing the mainspring. I currently have a 13# Wolff rebound slide spring installed. The rebound slide has been stoned a bit. I still find the pull to be a bit less smooth than desired.

I have tried a 8# mainspring and there is a noticeable difference with trigger pull. But I want the gun to be 100% reliable with any ammunition or primer. Testing the gun with that reduced 8# mainspring and empty primed cases with CCI primers (about six were used for the test)did not result in a FTF, but I would rather be safe than sorry-so I'm sticking with the factory mainspring.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: tedburns,

[QUOTE]Originally posted by tedburns:


QUOTE]


Does the diagram depict the 'trigger hook' in contact with the base of the stone? Yes, To test the trigger hook, you scrap it on your thumb nail. If nail is scraped off, you got it sharpened correctly.

When you refer to the 'hammer notch', is that the part of the hammer that rests inside/comes into contact with the trigger hook? Yes it is.

Do you have any suggestions about smoothing trigger pull that I have not mentioned in my post above your most recent? (assume keeping factory mainspring on J-frame).

Thanks for the tremendous contributions you have made to the gunsmithing division of the site.

Where can one find a perfect fitting screw driver to remove the sideplate screws? Does it have to be from a gunsmith set or can a regular screwdriver be good enough?

Just trying not to "screw up" my screws.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by tedburns:
Do you have any suggestions about smoothing trigger pull that I have not mentioned in my post above your most recent? (assume keeping factory mainspring on J-frame).
QUOTE]

I don't recommend changing the "main" spring on a defensive revolver.
J frames are harder to do because they use a coil main spring. Try stoning areas which need to be polished, and don't go after areas which should be left alone. Replace the rebound spring as low as you can go, yet maintain a proper trigger reset. Add a drop of oil to the wear points. If done correctly the DA pull can be lighted 30-40% over a stock "new" revolver.
Invest in a trigger job DVD such as Jerry Miculek's trigger job, come to mind. Excellent video for the beginner. Other good sources are out there if you look for them.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by ArmoredCat:
Where can one find a perfect fitting screw driver to remove the sideplate screws? Does it have to be from a gunsmith set or can a regular screwdriver be good enough?
QUOTE]

Gun screws need special screwdrivers devoted only to firearms. They are called "hollow ground" which are parallel and flat ground screwdrivers. These drivers won't hurt your gun screws. Using the wrong drivers will kick up an unsightly burr on the screw, and the only way to fix them, is to replace them at around a buck a piece!
These screwdrivers are found where gun accessories are sold. Brownells, and MidwayUSA are great to deal with.

Thanks, Magnum.
I have the Miculek trigger job video.

Anybody know where I can get disassembly instructions for a model 14-3 I just aquired?

parasite -- disassembly is easy enough, it's getting it back together that can be vexing.

Like many others, I'd recommend you get the kuhnhausen book for S&W revolvers. It's quite useful if you ever take the side plate off a S&W revolver.

There are loads of disassembly how-to's on the web.

Here's how i do it.

Get a 1 gallon zip lock bag and a small bowl to put parts in. You'll need the bag to catch the inevitable wayward spring.

Take out your GUNSMITH HOLLOWGROUND SCREWDRIVERS. Make sure they properly fit the sideplate screws. If not, stone one down until it fits properly -- with no slack.

1. Ensure the revolver is unloaded!
2. Remove grips. Remove the screw, take panels off.
3. Ensure the revolver is unloaded.
4. Remove the side plate screws. Pay attention to which screw goes in which hole. It's important for reassembly.
5. DO NOT PRY THE SIDEPLATE OFF. To remove the sideplate, hold the revolver by the barrel and rap the grip frame firmly with a non-marring hammer. The side plate will pop loose.
6. Lift the side plate off. Note the tab at the top of the side plate. When you reassemble, the top goes in first, with the tab inside the frame. DO NOT PRY the SIDEPLATE OFF -- it will bend. Do not force it back in place, it will bend.
7. lift the hammer block off. Note that the little looped end goes on the rebound slide when you put it back together.
8. Loosen the strain screw (it's that little screw in the grip frame that holds the main spring under tension.
9. Lift the mainspring out and rotate it off the hammer stirrup.

Put the revolver in the zip lock bag now.

10. GENTLY pry up the rebound slide. The spring will fly out when it decompresses. Try to catch it with your hand. If not, the bag will catch it (hopefully).
11. Retract the hand. While holding it back, GENTLY LIFT out the trigger-hand assembly. You can further remove the hand, but this is not generally required for detailed cleaning. Remember the hand is under spring tension, so if you take it off, remember to restore the original spring tension. It's important
12. Cock the hammer and lift it out of the frame.
13. GENTLY pry up the cylinder stop. It's under spring tension, and that little spring will decompress rapidly.
14. Open the cylinder. Gently pull the cylinder-yoke assembly toward the muzzle. It will come free from the frame.
15. Seperate the yoke from the cylinder.
16. Remove cylinder latch screw and cylinder latch (from the outside).
17. (Back on the inside of the frame). Retract the bolt and gently push it out. I push on from the outside of the frame. THIS TOO IS SPRING LOADED. THere's a little spring and plunger on the back of the bolt. It tends to fly away. Spring goes inside the bolt -- plunger on the outside.
18. If desired, remove adjustable sight assembly. Two screws. There's a small stud under the rear sight that slides into a groove in the frame. Easy to loose track of this if you're not careful.

That should do it for most purposes.

You can disassembly the cylinder. REmember, the threads on the ejector rod are left-hand, backward from most everything else.

I put six emtpy pieces of brass in the cylinder. Then, with padded pliers, grasp the ejector rod. Turn the cylinder and unscrew the ejector rod.

The assembly pulls apart. You'll have the extractor star, two springs, a bushing, the ejector rod, and the cylinder.

That's as far as I usually go. This is only my procedure. Your mileage may vary. Look at the parts chart on page one of the FAQ.

I really recommend you buy the kuhnhausen book from MidwayUSA or other fine retailer before your get your revolver in the same room with a screwdriver. It will tell you lots about how your revolver works and potentially save headaches.

Much thanks practicalman. I wanted to know for a sanding, buffing, polishing job for refinishing/bluing.

quote:

Originally posted by 500 Magnum Nut:
Removing Rear Blade

To swap the rear blade:

When changing the rear blade on S&W revolvers, turn the windage screw clockwise until the screw breaks. Then remove the nut by unscrewing if from the base. Use a plastic bag to catch the tiny spring and plunger that is located inside the screw head.

Reinstall the parts and tighten the retaining nut fully then back it off ¼ turn. Use the stacking tool and crimp the nut. Job done!

Tools look like this:

Rebuild kit looks like this:

Can you elaborate on the staking and crimping of the rear sight nut? Do you use the punch for that? What is that spanner-wrench looking thing and what is it used for? Is it necessary? Thanks.

I am also curious about this tiny tool.

The instructions that come from Smith and Wesson with the rear sight blade kit call it a "forked windage nut wrench." I would like to purchase one, but cannot seem to find them on Brownells.com or MidwayUSA.com.

Also curious about the procedure for staking the screw.

[Can you elaborate on the staking and crimping of the rear sight nut? Do you use the punch for that? What is that spanner-wrench looking thing and what is it used for? Is it necessary? Thanks.[/QUOTE]

When the nut is positioned on the stem, use the punch (staking tool) and flare the nut so it's not going to turn (the staking tool is deforming the threads preventing the nut from turning). Notice on your gun, the rear sight is chamfered. Make it look the same way when you replace the blade on your gun.

The spanner wrench is handy to spin on the nut, but it's not necessary. You could use a tiny screw driver if you don't have the spanner.

[
EMAIL]bigbored@att.net[/EMAIL]How do Iinsert pictures?

In regard to the X frame revolvers, are the main spring and trigger return spring the same as those used for current K, L and N frame revolvers? I ask as Wolff springs do not list their spring kits as applicable for the X frame guns.