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I have made some headway on the 1917 project with a lot of help from some great folks. A special thanks to Burt, George Roghaar and others.
Heres where it is. 1917 Brazilian in poor shape. I've replaced the cylinder with a new 625 cylinder, all the internal high wear parts came from Numrich; springs, rebound slide, cylinder block and more.
Burt did a great job on a late model ejector rod with a replacement knurled end (left hand threads)for the 625 cylinder. George did the case color hardening on the hammer and trigger and they look like new or better!
Now the decision. Chop or not. The original barrel is bulged behind the front sight. Since the barrel is totally screwed anyway, why not chop it and refinish the whole thing? I probably made up my mind on it, I just hate to think about polishing out the original patent rollmarks, what would you do? I did a photo edit to see what it would look like chopped. What do ya think? The photo really makes the metal look worse than it is, it is pitted but not too bad to buff out. Thanks again for the contributors to the project. Best Regards, Chef
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Posts: 395 | Location: North Alabama | Registered: 02 June 2007Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Chef,

I've had some limited sucess at restoring bulged revolver barrels. In your example of the bulge appearing just behind the rear sight, I think it is fixable. This works on the S&W low carbon steel pre-WWII barrels.

The technique is to insert an oiled, tightly fitted drill rod mandrel into the bore, heat to a dull red, and using a bronze or brass hammer, forge the bulge out. Drive the mandrel out using another smaller mandrel. The bore will be tighter than before, and lapping with a cast lead abrasive plug will remove the tightness. After polishing and rebluing, the worked on area is almost invisible! The before-and-after difference in accuracy can be amazing. Before "group" of 12"-14" tightened up to acceptable 3"-4" groups at 25 yards.
 
Posts: 868 | Location: west coast | Registered: 23 November 2007Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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I really like the look of the chopped barrel. If she was mine that's what I would do. Plenty of long barrels around, but that short barrel look is few and far between, go for it.


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Posts: 379 | Location: Ohio | Registered: 30 December 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Cool project. Was the 625 cylinder pretty much a drop-in with minor fitting? The "photoshopped" revolver looks great, I would go for it. That style grip looks better on a short barrel, too.
I would love to see pics of the finished project.
 
Posts: 215 | Location: Florida | Registered: 15 December 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Still some fitting to do. Since its turned into Frankenrevolver I think thats what I'm gonna do. I don't think its worth trying to save the bulge. The 625 cylinder fits fine and locks up tight with the new internals. It looked awful without the knurled rod but Burt did some clever engineering on that using a new style rod and an old style knurled end machined on. As far as dropping in, the 625 cylinder and rod fit fine without mods, just didn't look right with the straight rod and the relieved cutout. I'll post more when the project continues.... Regards, Chef


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Posts: 395 | Location: North Alabama | Registered: 02 June 2007Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Given the changes you have already made - I would go ahead and chop the barrel - similar to your mock-up photo. I would also lose the goodyears and find some interesting wood. Good luck & keep us posted.

Thanks, Jerry


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Posts: 1627 | Location: OR | Registered: 18 July 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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I know exactly what I would do. I would cut the barrel to 3", round butt the grip frame, refinish and add wood combat grips to the round frame. You'd have an excellent, packable gun. I have a Lew Horton 3" 629 and love the ergonomics, balance, and size. A .45acp in that configuration would be very neat.

Nice job on mating that mushroom head. That is one of my favorite features of the older guns. Also, before bluing you'll need to reshape the front sight slightly to get it to hit POA at your desired distance. You can choose your preferred load, shape it to the right height, then have it totally dialed in.


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Posts: 2058 | Location: Seattle-ish | Registered: 06 October 2007Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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I hadn't thought about rounding the grip, that would be cool! I would love to snub it but I don't want to lose the lug. I think 3 and a 1/4 would be about right? ~Chef


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Posts: 395 | Location: North Alabama | Registered: 02 June 2007Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by Chef:
I hadn't thought about rounding the grip, that would be cool! I would love to snub it but I don't want to lose the lug. I think 3 and a 1/4 would be about right? ~Chef


I have contemplated this on a 4" N frame, and yes, 3.25" was about the minimum I figured you could cut to not mess up the locking lug underneath. This was for a 28 - if your ejector rod and lug are the same then that would be your length.

I have been looking for a cheap/trashed 27, 28, 25, or '37, or '17 for this project myself for a few months. Since I'm not a machinist, it will get a bit expensive on the barrel and sight relocation. But as soon as I find an el-cheapo donor gun, then I am going to go at it. I can round the grips myself, but cutting a barrel, re-crowning it, re-sighting it etc., is something that really needs to be professionally done. Guys here have shown me their home work on refinishing and with some careful, slow work, you can do your own nice rust blue job that will be credible. Not easy - lots of metal prep, careful application, building an impromptu humidor for "sweating", etc. - but entirely doable. So with a cheap gun and just the barrel work, I could have the desirable RB N frame snubbie in .45acp in blue that I want to go with my 629 3", and not be out a huge fortune.

If you do this right, it could be very cool, in my opinion.


Physics 101: "Velocity" is speed and direction. Otherwise it's just "speed."
 
Posts: 2058 | Location: Seattle-ish | Registered: 06 October 2007Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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I would cut too but but don't forget to chamfer the front edge of the cylinder first.
That "squareness" just doesn't look right on this gun.


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Posts: 358 | Location: Asheville, NC | Registered: 25 June 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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I think I would chop it also. Custom revolvers are always neat.
 
Posts: 560 | Registered: 25 April 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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I would chop it, but no more than I had to do in order to eliminate the bulge.
 
Posts: 1416 | Registered: 07 September 2001Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Chef go and chop it. The problem with my Brazilian was a poor crown and end of barrel from setting in a holster with water and not being cared for. You'll notice that the front sight on mine is the old half moon cut to a ramp.Gunsmith first silver soldered it on.It came off after 18 rounds I was luckly I found it and had him braze it on the barrel end. Ordered a Tyler T-Grip for it as the rubber grips catch on the clothing during normal activties and are a distraction.
 
Posts: 394 | Location: South Jersey | Registered: 08 June 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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I'd chop it also, and 3 1/4" would look great and have a great balance. I have one of the 3" 24's RB from Lew Horton and it has a great balance. Now you have me thinking seriously about the Brazalian I have.


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Posts: 2024 | Location: West Central IL | Registered: 02 August 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Chop it
 
Posts: 803 | Location: sw pa | Registered: 20 April 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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