Im trying to find out what this revolver is and how old it is.If someone can tell me how or where to research I would be glad to do it my self. The number on the bottom of the grip is 6202.Any help would be appreciated.I posted on the 1945 and up section and was directed here.Thanks Dale.

Pitdog02, You didn't tell us much info. about the gun, but if it'a .38S&W Special caliber, it appears to be a 1st model Military & Police, aka. Model of 1899. Made at the turn of the century ( 20th Century).

Thanks OPO,yes it is a SW 38 special.According to the ammo I have with it.How do you research the serial numbers?

looks just like my 1899 m&p. and is about 3000 higher sn than mine. mike'll be along shortly and knows (and remembers) more of the info on these old girls than most of us 'round here. tell us the story on it, where'd it come from, how long 'ya had it, and such. allmost forgot to mention about getting it lettered from the factory, tell you when it was shipped who to and where. c.p.

The gun belongs to my next door nieghbor.It belonged to his Grandmother who lives on the other side of me. She said that her mother probably got the gun around 1945 from her second marriage and he was from Louisiana(sp). I am very interested in the letter process you speak of and what options are available for restoration and care.Thanks Dale.

Dale

The gun is a Model 1899, the first of the K-frame revolvers, and was probably shipped
early to mid 1901. The pictures look like they came froma cell phone, or the lighting
was bad; I can't tell what the finish is like.

The caliber should be stamped on the left side of the barrel, and should be
.38 Military & .38 Special , although occasinally the caliber roll-marking is missing.
It also should have patent-date roll-markings on the top of the barrel. These will be
very faint roll markings.

The serial number should be stamped on the flat on the bottom of the barrel, and on the
rear face of the cylinder. Both of these will be faint stampings, in small numbers, hard
to read !

There are several identifying characteristics of these 1899's. First, there is no
extractor lug under the straight-tapered barrel, which has no shoulder as it meets the
frame. These changed in 1902 and 1903, with the model to 1902. Another important
point is the pin showing on the left side of the frame, about an inch below the thumb
release. This is the levering-trigger-return pivot pin, which identifies the early lockwork
on these guns.

The Model of 1899 is a black-powder gun, so you want to be careful about what you shoot in it,
if you are going to shoot it. Lightly-loaded wad-cutter would be best. Post-WW2 ammo would not
be a good idea.

You might want to offer some comments as to the condition of the finish; I can't tell much from
these pictures. There were about 21000 1899's chambered in .38, in 4 barrel lengths and two finishes,
so they are not rare. On the other hand, really nice ones are worth several hundred dollars.

You can request a letter, for $30 or so, from the factory historian Roy Jinks. There is a form
on the factory website - perhaps its www.smith&wesson.com, or something like that.


Later, Mike Priwer

Ahh, the serial number after alittle cleaning is 3039.What a goof I was reading it dirty up side down thought it was 6202.The serial # is on the flat on the bottom of the barrel and matches the # on the bottom of the grip frame.It is apparent somebody tried to clean it up with some sort of power tool like a wire wheel or something.Some scuffing not much.I would like to know how to clean/ care for this rev.

Dale

3039 is somewhere around mid 1900, but these early guns do not line up at all with
serial number vs shipping date.

I can suggest some steps to take, in terms of cleaning. It would help me a lot if
you can arrange to get clearer pictures.

Remove the grips, carefully. Very carefully. They are hard rubber, and are prone
to break if not lifted off carefully. Removing the grips will expose the grip frame.

Next, remove the 4 sideplate screws. The most-forward screw retains the cylinder
assembly. When that screw is out,you can open cylinder and slide the whole assembly
forward and out. There is a spring-loaded pin at the forward end of the yoke - be careful
not to loose it, should it want to jump out. Its just spring loaded - nothing fancy.

With the 4 side-plate screws out, hold the frame in one hand, and hit one side of the
grip frame with a piece of wood. Several hits, and you will see the side plate rise up,
and then come free. Lift it off, and get us some decent pictures, so that I can see
the condition of the lockwork.

If its really gunky, dirty, etc, put the whole thing in a can with some solvent, and
let is soak for a day or two. Its all metal at this point, so you can use anything you
want. Periodically, agitate it, pull it out and brush it with a stiff bristle brush,
then toss it back into the solvent. You can also blow it with compressed air. Throw
the sideplate in the soup, as well, and get it clean.

When its as nice looking as you can get it , without further dis-assembly, get us some
decent pictures. I can give you further guidance, once I see what the condition is. I
can also advise you about the cylinder assembly, but one has to be careful in taking it
apart, so as not to damage the extractor assembly.

Later, Mike Priwer

Thanks Mike,I have the owner reading this thread and he seems to want to clean it up and fix it a little with some guidance from you.So we will do what you say and get some better pics with a digital camera.The pics I provided were with my scanner.Thanks again and I'll report back. Dale.