Friends, I have the above-described firearm, which I purchased off of a flea market table nearly twenty years ago. It is missing some internal parts, i.e., those that would connect the trigger to the hammer, etc...sorry, I am not a gunsmith...yet.

The revolver is disassembled now and if I placed the parts out, photographed what I have, and posted the pix, would you knowledgable collectors and gunsmiths tell me what I need to complete the gun? I can do that tonight when I get home from work.

It would be nice to restore this little gun to shooting condition, as all old S&W's should be.
Thanks, Waistgunner

This message has been edited. Last edited by: WaistGunner,

If you are serious about restoring your revolver you need two books:

[u]Antique Firearms Assembly and Disassembly[/u]

[u]Gunsmithing Guns of the Old West[/u]

Both books are written by Dave Chicoine; he is a master at restoring these old guns. These books give parts diagrams, step by step directions for assembly and disassembly and invaluable tips to correctly repair them. He also suggests specialized tools (like cup tip punches for the S&Ws) to do the job properly.

http://www.oldwestgunsmith.com/mybooks/

I do repairs and restorations and wouldn't be without these books.

Good luck with your project.

Thanks Raider, I have the second book, and will start digging info out of it tonight. I will get the first book too. Waistgunner

You're welcome. I forgot to mention that Dave offers some parts for the old revolvers on his website. If he doesn't have what you need, he can often locate the part for you.

Charlie

There is an old published artical by the NRA with assembly instructions and drawings and parts list. I got it about 10 years ago to re-do a S&W .38 breaktop. It made the job a lot easier. I think the artical was in the American Rifleman at one time. You might want to contact them if you cann't find the answers that you are seeking. I will try to find my copy, its about 4 pages long. It also works for the .32 S&W.

Thanks Delta 419, that would be a great reference also. If you find your copy, I would pay to photocopy it! I just rechecked the serial number on my .38 DA, it is a 3rd model, pre-1895, according to the SCSW. I will lay out some pix tonight, she is really rough (no rust) but I know she can fire again. Waistgunner

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Click START HERE to return to the Manufacturer and Category List
Smith & Wesson Model 38 SAFETY HAMMERLESS

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NI=Not Illustrated
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Note: The "On-Line Viewable Schematics" provided on this site are to be used as a general reference to assist you in identifying parts and may not be an illustration of your EXACT model. Key Number Item Number Description
1 292020 Barrel, First Model (Serial #'S 1-5,250), NI*
1 292250 Barrel, New Model (Serial #'S 116,003 & On)
1 292890 Barrel, Second & Third Model (Serial #'S 5,251-116,002), NI*
2 292300 Barrel Catch, First Model, NI*
2 292360 Barrel Catch, Fourth & Fifth Models
2 292340 Barrel Catch, Second Model, NI*
2 292350 Barrel Catch, Third Model, NI*
3 292590 Barrel Catch Cam, Fourth & Fifth Models*
4 328210B Barrel Catch Cam Spring*
5 292660 Barrel Catch Screw*
6 292730 Base Pin, Non-Threaded, Fifth Model*
6 292690 Base Pin, Threaded*
7 292770 Cylinder Assembly (Incl. Mfgr #'S 404, 419, 431 & 434)*
8 292790 Cylinder Stop, Stripped*
9 292820 Cylinder Stop Spring*
10 299900 Extractor*
11 299910 Extractor Spring
12 299940 Extractor Stud*
13 300560 Extractor Post*
14 330100B Extractor Cam & Catch
15 300040 Firing Pin
16 300050 Firing Pin Spring
17 300060 Firing Pin Bushing*
18 330240B Grips, Black Hard Rubber, Reproduction
18 300110 Grips, Walnut, NI
19 300120 Grip Screw*
20 300150 Hammer
20 300170 Hammer, Third Model (Has Safety Notch; Serial #'S 42,484-116,002), NI
21 300180 Hammer Stud*
22 300190A Hammer Stud Nut*
23 300200 Hand, Stripped*
24 300240 Hand Spring*
25 300250 Joint Pivot
26 300260 Joint Pivot Screw*
27 300280 Spiral Latch Spring*
28 327800B Mainspring
29 300320 Plate Screw
30 300330 Sear
31 300350 Split Spring*
32 300360 Safety Latch
33 300370 Sideplate
34 300380 Strain Screw
35 300390 Stirrup*
36 300430 Front Sight
37 300440 Safety Lever
38 300470 Trigger, Early Model (W/O Stop Notch; Serial #'S 1-42,483), NI
38 300480 Trigger, New Model (Serial #'S 42,484 & On)
39 300510 Trigger Guard, Early Model (Serial #'S 1-42,483), NI
39 300530 Trigger Guard, New Model (Serial #'S 42,484 & On)
40 327990B Trigger Spring
NI 292450 Barrel Catch Safety Lever, Third Model, NI*
NI 292390 Barrel Catch Thumbpiece, Second Model, NI*
NI 292410 Barrel Catch Thumbpiece, Third Model, NI*
NI 300000 Cylinder Hook, NI*
NI 300010 Extractor Cam*
NI 300300 Latch Spring, Flat, NI*
NI = Not Illustrated
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http://www.e-gunparts.com/model.asp?idDept=230 Hi Waistgunner, The above link should bring you to the parts deawing page for your S&W. Good luck in your project! Ray

Well Everyone, Looks like I screwed up the previous post I did. Just was was trying to post a link, not an essay!! Sorry, Ray

rayj101, I appreciate the spirit of your post, brother! I will check the website and see what they have for me. WG

After reviewing my copy of "Gunsmithing Guns of the Old West," I determined that my .38 DA 3rd model(ser. # 1700##) is missing most of its "guts," i.e.,

(1) Grips and grips screw
(2) Cylinder Stop
(3) Hand
(4) Front Sear
(5) Handspring
(6) Trigger Spring
(7) Rear Sear Spring

Ugh...Do any of my fellow forum members have a complete bottom half of the .38 DA 3rd or 4th model that they would like to part with? My revolver is pretty solid except for the "stomach surgery" someone did many moons ago. Thanks again for all of your help! Waistgunner

Does anyone know of a CD "How To" available that goes through a step by step rebuild a S&W .38 DA 3rd Model Top Break? I found a source for the needed parts. I have the book by David Chicoine, but I'm mostly an auditory learner. Thanks, Waistgunner