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Are there any known household chemicals that are good for cleaning barrel of leading? I have used kerosene for regular cleaning but do not know if it removes lead.How about things like brake cleaner, ammonia etc.
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No chemicals needed. Buy a brass Chore Boy.
Simply take a brass bore brush and wrap some Chore Boy strands around it and run it through the bore. Done. "The laws that forbid the carrying of arms .....disarm only those who are neither inclined nor determined to commit crimes." Cesare Beccaria (1735-1794) Italian nobleman, criminologist, and penal reformer |
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A bore brush (bronze or SS) will not take out the lead by itself? What does the chore boy strand do? make a tighter fit? |
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The "Chore Boy" wrap puts strands of brass at right angles to the bore - this gives MUCH better purchase to remove the lead (it pretty much scrapes it out without damaging the bore). Brass brushes just bend out of the way and do not give sufficient purchase to remove the lead very efficiently.
FWIW Dale53 |
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Try a 50/50 mix of Kroil and Hoppes #9. Swab the barrel generously with a soaked patch and let it sit for at least 30min. or more depending on the leading. The lead seems to leech out of the bore.
"It is better to die on your feet than to live on your knees!" |
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hello
why do you not use the ed'red it's a homemade bore cleaner ,easy to make and very cheap i use them for severals years and since i never buy a commercial solvent |
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What is the formula (recipe)? I thought it was a commercial product.EDIT: never mind, I found it. I have everything except the ATF fluid. (i hate the smell of that but will make a batch. Thanks!) I have read about the Kroil and Hoppes #9. I guess I am trying to figure out what chemicals are actually in some of these commercial brands. The Hoppes is kerosene based with theat "magic" something else. Some cleaners for copper use ammonia. Now that I am switching over to all hard cast, I want to avoid any leading problems. |
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Here is a link to an article detailing Ed's Red. It is essentially simply equal parts of kerosene, mineral Spirits, Dextron ATF and acetone. It works extremely well.
http://www.handloads.com/articles/default.asp?id=9 "Let us speak courteously ,deal fairly and keep ourselves armed and ready."- T. Roosevelt |
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The chore boy works great. If you want a chemical, the only one that actually dissolves lead is No-Lead by Wipe-Out. Hoppes and other solvents might remove other fouling that is holding the lead in the bore but won't dissolve it. Other lead removal solutions are abrasive and abrade the lead from the bore.
Jeff “They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little safety deserve neither liberty nor safety.” Benjamin Franklin "That's OK, I wasn't using my civil liberties anyway" "guard against the impostures of pretended patriotism." from George Washington's farewell address. |
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There is nothing magical or mysterious about gun cleaning products. There never has been.
The classic Hoppes Number 9 was formulated as a "nitro powder solvent" meaning, it dissolved the combustion products of single and double based smokeless powder, including those that contain nitroglycerin. The ingredient that does that is benzene or a derivative of nitro benzene. Ammonia is the component that dissolves nickle alloy and copper alloy residue. These "metal solvents" only work on freshly exposed thin surface traces, such as bullet smears on the interior of a barrel bore or cylinder throat. AFAIK, there is no household common solvent for dissolving lead except maybe hydrogen peroxide. I would not use that because it also attacks iron/steel of gun barrels. The classic cupro-nickel and copper fouling remover is 28% Stronger's ammonia. Using it is dicey too because it also attacks barrel steel. Most bore solvents and cleaners work in combination with mechanical abrasion from a bronze bristle brush. The solvents migrate between the smeared-on lead or copper residue and the barrel surface, are an aid to loosening it, and are subsequently wiped out with swabs. The home made cleaners such as Ed's Red, are nothing more than a mixture of high detergent ATF, refined kerosene (diesel or jet fuel), or bezene. It works for the same reasons that old cleaning solvents worked: by reducing surface tension, getting under metal fouling, and allowing mechanical brushing to loosen and remove metal and powder fouling. |
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the formula is very simple
1/4 atf 1/4 acetone 1/4 turpentine 1/4 kerosene desodorised it's work great for lead ,black podwer,plastic wad for cooper fouling you must added amonia i have find here in FRANCE a domestic stainless cleaner which isn't abrasive but contained amonia it works fine for cleaning fouling barrel and the face of the cylinder. go to this site" frfrogspad.com "and you can find a lot of homemade cleaner ,lube. regards |
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Thanks for the detailed info. I did some searching and could only find that chloric , nitric and acetic acid will disolve lead. I doubt that vinegar 5% acetic acid would do much. I did mix a small batch of the Ed's Red and will see how it works. I have been using 50/50 kerosene and no odor mineral spirits to clean all the major stuff off and then a light cleaning with CLP ot EEzox. |
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I would like to caution ALL OF YOU about Ed's Red (or actually ERSATZ Ed's Red. Use ONLY CANNED or bottled K-1 Kerosene. It is VERY pure and you will only get what you hope to get. Gasoline station "K-1 Kerosene" may contain any number of acids and/or water.
Ed Harris is very specific about using clean K-1 and the only way you can be sure is to buy it in a can or bottle (that is certified). My good friend had used my bottle of Ed's Red while we were on the range. He liked it. I gave him the very specific formula. He went home, cheaped out with gas station so called K-1 Kerosene. He worked many hours on an original Stevens 44 Action .22 single shot polishing the whole exterior for refinishing. He had done a perfect job (all flats flat, no dished screws, everything as it should be). He covered the outside with Ed's Red to protect it and set it aside. In one day, it was completely covered with deep rust. Really bad experience. Properly made Ed's Red has absolutely NOTHING In it to cause that. The only deviation he made was to get gas station K-1 Kerosene. I use Ed's Red as my "go-to" powder solvent and have NEVER had any problems whatsoever. But, and this is a big BUT, I use never opened, certified products. Using the best stuff available, it costs about $8.00 per gallon (not counting the Anhydrous Lanolin - that is optional) and that is plenty cheap enough for me. Take no chances and do it right. Steppin' down from the pulpit...  Dale53 |
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I'm just a simple country boy and I find that wrapping some Chore Boy around a brush is the best lead removal method I have ever used. I am not particularly fond of "living better through chemistry", especially since I usurped bedroom number four as my second floor gun room/shop. Chore Boy removes lead mechanically, much the same as the Lewis Lead Remover. I have used it to clean my 45's, 38 Special, 357 Mag, and 44 Mag. The worst case requires four or five strokes with the wrapped brush. The results are visible as the lead is literally scrapped from the bore and dragged out by the copper strands. I just periodically unwind the copper and then re-wind it. In trying to keep down the chemical smells I am now using BreakFree CLP exclusively. I am retired and shoot two or three times a week, about 200 rounds each time. I also clean my firearms after every shoot.
Just my humble opinion, for what it is worth, Frank Si hoc signum legere potes, operis boni in rebus Latinis alacribus et fructuosis potiri potes! If you can read this sign, you can get a good job in the fast-paced, high-paying world of Latin!) |
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Primersp, Thanks. I found the recipe online also. I made a batch and will try it out. From you location you state you are in France. Nice to se members from other Countries. I thought there was very strict gun laws there. Are you allowed handguns?? |
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