quote:

However, as I have talked to knowledgeable, competitive revo shooters I’ve come to discover that they change the geometry on the OEM mainsprings and alter the length of the strain screw to get the best possible trigger pull – none of them use aftermarket springs. They run their guns for tens of thousands of live rounds (and maybe 5X that dry firing) with zero FTF due to light strikes and I’ve never heard of them having to readjust the mainspring/ screw setting once it’s set.

Exactly correct. If you're interested in gaining good information on competition action work on S&W revolvers, here is a much better source for you to check out: http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showforum=43

Thanks topcatt51 – I’m gonna give that a try. Picked up an assortment of grade 8 8-32 socket screws this morning for a whopping $3.86. The beauty of this mainspring/ strain screw experimentation is that the parts are cheap, the results reversible and you can instantly check the results of your work – unlike my first chamfer job! Carmoney, I do frequent the BE revo forum – in fact it was you who inspired me to bob the hammer on my 15-3 game gun. I think I lessened 1/3 to ½ a pound of pull w/o losing any reliability and I definitely pick up major cool points (“Wow man – where did you get that hammer? What? Oh this old thing? I just chopped off the spur with a dremel tool.”) All these forums are really a tremendous asset to those of us just learning the sport – I really appreciate everyone’s advice.

When you use the setscrew put a notch in the edge of the head (allen wrench end) so you have a way of repeating your setting.

Will do!

I've used the Allen Strain Screw & realy like that I'm not altering the factory part, I just store it away, I put loctite on the set screw beforehand & let it dry.. This Setup works very well..
Gary/Hk

quote:

Originally posted by Stillwater788 Carmoney, I do frequent the BE revo forum – in fact it was you who inspired me to bob the hammer on my 15-3 game gun. I think I lessened 1/3 to ½ a pound of pull w/o losing any reliability and I definitely pick up major cool points (“Wow man – where did you get that hammer? What? Oh this old thing? I just chopped off the spur with a dremel tool.”)

You can always give them my line: "Hammer spurs are for midnight cowboys!" Hopefully catch up with you at a match somewhere--good luck with your revo.

That is some nice photo work Headknocker. After you cut the screw, do you need to clean up the threads with a die?

I didn't cut the allen screws, bought them that away..
These are 8-32 x 1/2" set screws made from 4.2 Stainless Steel bought @ Home Depot in packages of two for 56 cents per package..
In both my K Frames were I've used them I have either the Wolff mainspring or a Jerry Micklek spring, What's great about this if you have light primer strikes you can just tighten the screw in 1/4 turns untill the problem disapears
I keep an ellen wrench in my range bag & of course grip screwdrivers etc anyway..
These screws are cheap & are much harder than the factory strain screw..
The only way I wouldn't use one is if the frontstrap was exposed, on both my K Frames I have either Hogue or Uncle Mikes Grips which hide the head of the screw, Factory Screws are in storage in baggies marked which gun they came from..
Enjoy!!
Gary/Hk