Dear forum members,
I tried to but could not find an answer yet for my question. Probably caused by my Dutch-oriented phrased questions here on the forum. So I started this new topic. Please correct me if I’m wrong.

Sind’s a few weeks I am the proud owner of a S&W 27-2 revolver. But I run into some troubles. It shoots magnum cartridges smoothly, but when I use the .38SP the gun trigger and hammer are blocked after shooting approximately 20 to 25 shots.
It really blocks, and I can’t pull back the hammer or use the trigger anymore.

After fumbling for a little while I can open the cylinder again and unload the gun.
Continuing shooting with the magnum .357 cartridges gives no problem at all.
I am flabbergasted and nobody here seems to know what’s the cause.

I am searching for a (good) gunsmith over here, but want to know first what’s wrong.
Who can help me out here…

Regards,
John, from Holland.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Echwel,

John,

My first thought is that the 38 Special ammunition you are using is the problem. What brand/type is the 38 ammo? Your revolver will handle both 357 and 38 Special ammunition equally well. I'd recommend trying another brand of 38 ammo.

I agree with Centenniel. Look for primer extrusion on the .38 ammunition. If the primer flows back into the firing pin hole, that will cause the lockup you described. Primer extrusion is caused by excessive pressure or soft primers, or both. Try other brands of .38 ammunition.

Thanks Centenniel for your reply.

I used reloaded 38 ammo that was given to me by the guy I bought the gun from. A fellow member of my shooting club. He had never any problems (he said).

I will try another type of ammo this week. However, I don’t think it will solve the problem.
I stumbled on an other side effect. If I oil the trigger parts to rich, it’s mail functioning also.

I will let you know about my findings with other ammo.

Thanks again.

Thanks John Traveler, I will go into this.
I should say "good morning" to you guys.
Here it's allmost five PM and we going to prepair dinner in a while.
So if I don't give any response it means I am eating.
Regards,
John

echwel, as said above, the .38 ammo you are using is the culprit most likely....have used BOTH in 27's for many years and never any issues.........
try any other "factory" ammo, and then lets us know....save your gunsmith fees for a while yet.

By the way, very NICE looking gun in the picture too.........

quote:

Originally posted by dant:
as said above, the .38 ammo you are using is the culprit most likely....
By the way, very NICE looking gun in the picture too.........

Thanks Dan,
I hope your right about it.
Next Tuesday I will know about it.
Regards,
John

I have a 27-2 that will start to bind up after shooting several rounds of hand loads. The problem with mine is that the barrel to cylinder gap is very minimal and the build up of crud on the front of the cylinder face starts to drag on the forcing cone of the barrel. I can dampen a cloth with solvent and wipe the rear of the barrel and front of the cylinder and I'm good for another forty or fifty rounds.

It sounds like your 38spcl loads are "dirty". Check under the ejector star for powder residue and around the forcing cone and front of the cylinder. As OFT suggested you may have a tight cylinder gap which allows burned powder residue to build-up on the front of the cylinder. This would also cause problems if you use too much oil on the gun after cleaning. Ask the friend you bought the gun from how he cleans and lubricates his guns. Also check that the ejector is screwed tight (the stem at the front of the cylinder) and that the cylinder screw is tight so the cylinder does not move forward.

Beste,
Tbury

quote:

Originally posted by tbury:
It sounds like your 38spcl loads are "dirty". Check under the ejector star for powder residue and around the forcing cone and front of the cylinder. As OFT suggested you may have a tight cylinder gap which allows burned powder residue to build-up on the front of the cylinder. This would also cause problems if you use too much oil on the gun after cleaning. Ask the friend you bought the gun from how he cleans and lubricates his guns. Also check that the ejector is screwed tight (the stem at the front of the cylinder) and that the cylinder screw is tight so the cylinder does not move forward.

Beste,
Tbury

+1

I find that especially with reloads the area under the extractor star must be dry. If there is any oil, powder will build up and push the star out enough to bind up the action. His other points are valid as well and are sreas to be checked.

Bill

Thanks gents for all your advice, it helps a lot to get more understanding about this issue.

I tryed the factory ammo last thuesday, but the problem stays.
I also found a gunsmith and tonight i will have a talk with him first, before taking any action.
I will keep you informed.

regards,
John.

quote:

Originally posted by dant:
...try any other "factory" ammo, and then lets us know....save your gunsmith fees for a while yet.

To keep you updated…

Well, I found a gunsmith who claims he can fix the problem.
Went to see him two days ago and he fired round’s until the problem occurred.
He is convinced it’s all in the tolerance between cylinder and barrel.
He only has time to do the job within two weeks time, and is asking a fair amount of euro’s.
I might get a second opinion in the meantime, but it’s sounds good.
Will keep you posted,
Regards,
John.

Were the .38s lead and the .357s jacketed? I've had lead plate the front of the cylinder until the trigger got stiff. It was a pretty extreme case though and only one load that'd do it.

brownell's has end shake bearings for just a few dollars.you just have to take the cylinder apart and put in one or two of the bushings.i have done it many times and it works great and cost just a few dollars.if you were here i would fix the problem at no charge.ronnie

I was going to say that the reload are made with "Bullseye " power I bet.Need to get in the habit to wipe cylinder front off when you open and remove brass.The other can be crud getting under the extractor, which will do the same thing. Just don't hit it with a lead hammer LOL. Just joking. Have Fun - John