Can anyone tell me what to use to polish the feed ramp on an autoloader. Thanks

Kim

Use a bonded rubber abrasive tip on a Dremel motor tool. The ones shaped like a 1/2" diameter bullet are about ideal. Harbor Freight usually has bargain polishing tip kits and the motor tool knockoffs that work well.

quote:

Originally posted by john traveler:
Use a bonded rubber abrasive tip on a Dremel motor tool. The ones shaped like a 1/2" diameter bullet are about ideal. Harbor Freight usually has bargain polishing tip kits and the motor tool knockoffs that work well.

+1
Also don't go overboard with the polishing,You don't want to change any angles.

Ken

I have used a regular polishing wheel on the dremel with rubbing compound such as TurtleWax, with rubbing compound you can easily give that ramp a mirror finish without risk of removing metal or changing angles. When mine came back from S&W, it also had the roof ramp, and chamber shining real nice. Well not the chamber its self just the entrance. Just my two cents.

Here is how they looked when S&W did them on my M&P 40:

This message has been edited. Last edited by: magnum12pm,

I have a 1/2" wooden dowel(And several spares) that is turned down to .445, a wrap of 600 grit emory-cloth polishes a 1911 ramp very well. Put the frame in a padded vise snugly, lay the dowel against the ramp and with thumb-pressure holding it flat in the ramp move it back and forth about 3/8 of an inch. By using something as uncontrollable as a Dremel Tool you risk wallowing out the ramp or, changing the angle of the feed ramp. The same method applies to integral feedramps.

DaveWW is correct, never use a dremel on a critical gun surface for anything other than polishing with mild rubbing compound. If you can use it on a cars paint job, there is no chance of harming hardened steel. His dowel rod seems quite controlable also.

All the above is good advice. Pay attention to the SLIGHT blend and flare on the edges in the photo above. Top slightly also just to remove cutter marks, sharp edges, and burrs as a nose-up bullet will hit there.

Depending upon the barrel you can angle in a bit and increase the radius on the bottom chamber edge SLIGHTLY. Issue here is to not to remove support for the cartridge case. Going in 1/16' or so is ok.

I have a Dremel and sometimes use the wood stick method but am kinda partial to a Sharpie pen on my bench with a piece of 400 wet-dry. The tapered and rounded tip makes for flexibility on size. Then hit it with 600 like the guys said. Then polish with what you have. I use a 3/8" felt wheel in my Dremel with jewelers rouge and then Simichrome sometimes.

Another easy thing that helps a lot is to remove the sharp edges on the inside of the mag feed lips.

Another common problem area that causes jams is the extractor. If you pull it and look at it under a lighted magnifier. Small Swiss file, remove sharp edges, machine cutter marks, polish the flare so the cartridge rim will feed under the extractor.

While you are at it you might as well polish the breechface (ice cream stick cut to proper width and 400-600) and polish the bottom edge of the slide at the breech.

Do all that stuff and she will feed like it was greased.

More guns have been ruined with a Dremel than all other tools combined.

Gentlemen, Thanks for all the great advise. I will proceed very slowly.

Kim

quote:

Originally posted by DeanD:
More guns have been ruined with a Dremel than all other tools combined.

BINGO !!! I have had more than one gunsmith tell me that their business increases with the purchase of Dremel tools by shooters. BE CAREFUL !!

To buff the ramp to a mirror shine is a waste of time. It's not needed, but it pleases the buyer.

Remove the tool marks, or other defects/deposits and your good to go.

I use a dremel mostly for this, with a pinch of compound.

Hello, Put the dremel in the vice, hold the
part in your hand,you will have much
better control.

Just don't get overly enthusiastic with the polish job and take off enough to leave the case head unsupported. It will eventually result in a blowout.

A lighted magnifier is a must for gunsmithing work for me. Lowe's, Home Depot, etc. have them.