I'd like to find an extractor rod removal tool like the one shown in 500 Magnum Nut's description of a cylinder detail strip. I can't find such a tool in the Brownell's catalog or Midway's. I hope someone can help! Thanks.

I found a Link To This Specific Tool with my Search Engine..
http://gunsmithing-tools.com/store/Scripts/default.asp
I use a Drill Chuck Myself & find it works absolutely Perfectly BTW..
Looks Like J Frame different than K/L/N
Gary/Hk

I have the tool, but a drill chuck, preferably the kind that uses a chuck key, works better.

I use two pieces of wood clamped to the knurled end with vise grips. Works as well as anything else, and the price is right.

I have one of the Gunsmithing Tools ejector rod tools for the J-frame. It's very well built, in fact, it's as good as the original Wessinger tool, which I have for the K/L/N frames. As Gary said, the ejector rod diameter is smaller for the J-frame.

FYI, George passed away last year, and his tools are no longer available.

Buck

Thanks alot guys!

A good Jacobs chuck works well.

two pieces of leather, like from an industrial belt, in a vise,to pad the rod, works for us....just support the extractor star in the cylinder, with two 'spent' cases.......
we always have used a padded vise, and have different pads for different applications

A drill chuck works great, but you need to tighten it all the way down to ensure that the rod doesn't turn in the chuck. Some people worry they will mar the rod if they tighten it too much, in truth it is a loose chuck that allows the rod to slip that will cause marring.

A drill chuck is so easy to use for this little task I never understand why anyone would spend money on the Wessinger tool.

The Wessinger tool is used on the ejector rod at its base. If it slips, any marring will be located inside the yoke and will not be visible. That may not be the case depending on what drill chuck is used.

Second, the ejector rod is hollow. The Wessinger tool can't be tightened enough to crush the tube, because of its design. Again, depending on the drill chuck design, the rod can be indented by excessive pressure from the chuck jaws. If you're careful, this doesn't happen.

The Wessinger tools can't be used for older Smiths with the large-ended ejector rod - I use hollowed-out wood blocks and a clamp for those.

In all cases, be sure to put empty shells in the chambers to prevent alignment pin damage.

Buck

quote:

Originally posted by pinkymingeo:
I use two pieces of wood clamped to the knurled end with vise grips. Works as well as anything else, and the price is right.

Yeah thats exactly what I do. Never had any trouble with it and it costs nothing.

Padded vice jaws; leather, plastic or Copper all work well, and much better than a drill chuck.. And 'Over Tightening" of a Drill Chuck is a very good way to damage an ejector rod.

Also, here is one sold by Brownells:

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.as...ACTOR%20ROD%20WRENCH

And it was designed by Ron Power(Noted Pistolsmith) and will fit "J" "K" and "N" Frame Smith & Wessons as well as a number of others. for $30.00 it is a very good investment.

You can also buy one of these:

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.as...0EXTRACTOR%20SUPPORT

That is also something of a "One Size Fit ALL" but you can do pretty much the same thing by keeping some "re-sized" empties on hand along with a piece of leather to give me a good Grip on the Cylinder. BUT, be careful not to over tighten. I use 'Red' Lock Tight because it lasts longer and can "easily" be removed if you use the right process.

Actually, undertightening the drill chuck is usually what damages the ejector rod.

Why are all you guys unscrewing your ejector rods anyway? I know of only two (2) valid reasons to do so: replacing the rod, or installing an endshake bearing. If you're not doing one of the above, leave it alone.

quote:

Originally posted by jeffrey:
I'd like to find an extractor rod removal tool like the one shown in 500 Magnum Nut's description of a cylinder detail strip. I can't find such a tool in the Brownell's catalog or Midway's. I hope someone can help! Thanks.

EBAY !

J frame is one size and the N K L is the other size

X frame I use a lathe chuck or 1/2 inch drill chuck

Note to guys that prefer a drill chuck on smaller J KLN guns:
Be careful not to clamp it on the knurl end or you will squish it and you will be pissed off at yourself...
Don't ask me how I know this...