I would like to have the hammer on my model new classic model 36 bobbed. I want something more then to just to have it cut off. I would like to find a gunsmith that would bob a new replacement hammer and make it look nice. The hammer on the new model 36 j frame is skeletonized and does not look good when bobbed.
Are the new model 36's DAO? My older model 60 I carry can be shot single action by cocking the hammer. It would be impossible to lower the hammer on a round without discharging the gun because the cylinder will not open with the hammer cocked. Maybe your new model is different, maybe you will only shoot it by pulling the trigger, but there may come a time when you will need to lower the hammer on a round
Originally posted by sar4937: Are the new model 36's DAO? My older model 60 I carry can be shot single action by cocking the hammer. It would be impossible to lower the hammer on a round without discharging the gun because the cylinder will not open with the hammer cocked. Maybe your new model is different, maybe you will only shoot it by pulling the trigger, but there may come a time when you will need to lower the hammer on a round
Safely lowering a bobbed hammer from full cock is simplicity itself, provided you learn the proper way to do it and practice until it become natural -- just like every other operation with a handgun.
Place your thumb between the hammer face and the frame -- shooting hand or off-hand, whichever is most comfortable for you. Pull the trigger and allow the hammer to go forward against the blocking digit. Remove the finger from the trigger, then move the blocking finger and let the hammer go forward the last fraction of an inch. Very safe and simple.
Pisgah NRA Life
"South Carolina is too small for a republic and too large for an insane asylum." James Louis Petigru
Yes, it could be done that way. Or you might move your digit enough to unblock the hammer. Either way practice it outside. I'm sure that it's done, but it's also the first post for this forum member. Make sure they understand the downside of bobbing the hammer.
Make sure they understand the downside of bobbing the hammer.
The downside is the same as with any gun -- handle it wrong and you're asking for trouble. The upside -- learn how to do it right, always do it right, and no one gets hurt. Decocking a bobbed hammer is no more dangerous than decocking one with the spur intact, done right.
Pisgah NRA Life
"South Carolina is too small for a republic and too large for an insane asylum." James Louis Petigru
The new model 36 j frames are not single action only. The hammer can be bobbed, it just does not look good. I was wondering if there is a gunsmith out theere that could install the older style hammer then bob and polish it.
Hi, Dylan. I bought a new Model 36 about two weeks ago. A word of caution about single action firing (that I learned the hard way). No, I'm not talking about accidental discharge. Even a clutz like me is able to lower the hammer without accidentally firing.
The problem with firing the Model 36 in single action is this: The hammer is not forged and polished smooth; it is injection molded. I learned the hard way that there is a seam and other irregularities on the underside. As was explained to me in my recent post, if you run your fingernail under the hammer, you can feel the seam. So when you bring the hammer back for single action, the underside of the hammer bites into the upper backstrap and nicks the blue, revealing the silver color underneath. Sort of unsightly. I understand that this also sometimes happens even with forged hammers.
I've just put mine in a package to send back to S&W. Not sure that they can fix, but I'll give it a go.
Posts: 100 | Location: Northern Virginia | Registered: 22 June 2008
Originally posted by 500 Magnum Nut: While your bobbing the hammer, why not remove the single action hook? This way the gun will be double action only.
Certainly an option. My preference is to leave the SA notch intact, just in case I should want to make a precise shot at some point. While most of my practice with my J frames is DA at close range, I do take an occasional 50 yard shot with them just to keep myself familiar with ewhere they shoot. It's amazing, really, what kind of shooting can be done at such range with these little guns.
Pisgah NRA Life
"South Carolina is too small for a republic and too large for an insane asylum." James Louis Petigru
If the "bobbing" has not been completed, I have a friend that has a factory bobbed hammer in a model 37 that he would be willing to swap for a standard hammer. Pisgah, How far from the N.C.Border? As in Mt. Pisgah? Cheers from a Tarheel! dakasat
Originally posted by dakasat: If the "bobbing" has not been completed, I have a friend that has a factory bobbed hammer in a model 37 that he would be willing to swap for a standard hammer. Pisgah, How far from the N.C.Border? As in Mt. Pisgah? Cheers from a Tarheel! dakasat
Pisgah National Forest is one of my all-time favorite hangouts -- I've spend many a day on the trail and many a night on the ridgetops. I live about 100 miles away as the crow flies from Mt. Pisgah, in SC.
Pisgah NRA Life
"South Carolina is too small for a republic and too large for an insane asylum." James Louis Petigru
Originally posted by MX-5: Hi, Dylan. I bought a new Model 36 about two weeks ago. A word of caution about single action firing (that I learned the hard way). No, I'm not talking about accidental discharge. Even a clutz like me is able to lower the hammer without accidentally firing.
The problem with firing the Model 36 in single action is this: The hammer is not forged and polished smooth; it is injection molded. I learned the hard way that there is a seam and other irregularities on the underside. As was explained to me in my recent post, if you run your fingernail under the hammer, you can feel the seam. So when you bring the hammer back for single action, the underside of the hammer bites into the upper backstrap and nicks the blue, revealing the silver color underneath. Sort of unsightly. I understand that this also sometimes happens even with forged hammers.
I've just put mine in a package to send back to S&W. Not sure that they can fix, but I'll give it a go.
Thanks for the information. My Model 36 has the nick you mentioned.
If memory serves, the new style hammers are pourus/ powder metalurgy type and look lousy bobbed. Contact a good S&W revolver smith and he can likely fit a NICE bobbed hammer for you. FWIW, I have a bobbed hammer on my older mod 60 and one on my 64 custom carry. Both function reliably and look good. Dropping the hammer to uncock is not hard AND can be done safely but requires a little practice.
Dave
Posts: 638 | Location: SE Mass, usa | Registered: 27 March 2003
Originally posted by Wee Hooker: If memory serves, the new style hammers are pourus/ powder metalurgy type and look lousy bobbed. Contact a good S&W revolver smith and he can likely fit a NICE bobbed hammer for you. FWIW, I have a bobbed hammer on my older mod 60 and one on my 64 custom carry. Both function reliably and look good. Dropping the hammer to uncock is not hard AND can be done safely but requires a little practice.
Dave your are correct on how they look and my problem is finding that Gunsmith. Any suggestions?
