I have a nice model 19-3 Ser # 3K95XX in 2.5 inch, P&R.

It has a longer trigger reset than my other S&W revolvers which is of concern to me. The issue is somewhat clumsy to describe, but here goes.


On my other revolvers, when I release the trigger slowly there are three audible clicks on the trigger's journey back to a full reset. The second and third click are very near to each other. If I were to pull the trigger rearward between the second and third click the cylinder will spin but the hammer will not cock back into firing position (normal). This is somewhat hard to do on my other Smiths since the trigger distance between the second and third reset clicks is quite short.

On my 19, the trigger distance between the 2 and third clicks is much longer...almost 1/8th inch. This makes it quite easy to release the trigger only partially, hear and feel the second click, try to shoot it again to soon during the reset movement, only to realize the trigger did not fully reset. The cylinder rotates but the hammer does not cock back to fire the gun.

It is this longer distance between pull 2 and 3 that is of concern. Ideally, I would like it shorter like my other Smiths so that while shooting clicks 2 and 3 happen so close together that I can't really trap the trigger via to short a reset movement.

Can any of you out there that do not think I am crazy educate me? Also, I would welcome any info about when my gun was made.

THANK YOU!

This message has been edited. Last edited by: mrheythere,

That unacceptable delay between trigger release and recovery for the next cylcle is caused by a poorly fitted bolt stop.

It needs to be replaced, refitted, and timed to your revolver.

quote:

Originally posted by john traveler:
That unacceptable delay between trigger release and recovery for the next cylcle is caused by a poorly fitted bolt stop.

It needs to be replaced, refitted, and timed to your revolver.

Thank you a few follow up questions:

1) With this condition, is the gun likely still safe to shoot absent some other illness?

2) Can my local gunsmith order the part and fit or should this be returned to SW for servicing?

3) This is an older Smith 19-3. Do I need to use newer MIM parts or are older parts available (should I care if MIM is uesed?)?

4) How do suppose this condition occurred?

THANK YOU!

With no disrespect to john traveler, I disagree. I presume what he is calling a bolt stop is the cylinder stop. (there is no bolt stop in a S&W) The last part to reset is the double action sear located on the front of the hammer. As the trigger returns, it pushes the cylinder stop forward, leaving it engaged in the cylinder, and it then pops back under spring tension as the tip of the trigger clears the notch. THEN, the double action surface of the trigger drops below the double action sear, and the sear pops back out in place OVER the double action surface of the trigger ready to go for the next round. That is the third click. If you allow the trigger to snap forward it will work fine. To correct this, you can shorten the DA sear a few thousandths while keeping the angle the same, and it will reset a little sooner. A stronger rebound spring may fix it as well IF it has been weakened. If it is a factory spring, this will not apply.

Thank you!