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This past weekend I purchased a 4006 40 cal at a local gun show. My first pistol. Anyway trying to learn about bullets in general and specifically about the ones I bought. I purchased two bags of 50 from Georgia Arms 180gr full metal case ( factory loaded ) for $11.75 per bag. I'll be honest I bought these bacause they were cheap and I don't know what I'm doing yet in regards to bullet type,grains etc. so please educate me. From the little bit of research I've done on this site that price seems like a bargain. My intention short term is to get up to speed at the range and really learn how different loads shoot in my gun. Any thoughts on what I purchased? Any recommendations on brands/weights to try in the future? And just for clarification when it says 180gr is that the weight of the projectile or the amount of powder in the shell? Also I just looked at one of the bags and it also says " FPS:950 " Thanks guys.
 
Posts: 51 | Registered: 31 March 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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180 grs is the nominal weight of the bullets. GA arms ammunition is usually decent, though some people have complained about getting batches that burn dirty as of late. If you have a Dicks sporting goods near you, they often have very competitive prices on Remington UMC.

I'm going to assume that your 4006 was used. If you didn't get a manual with it, you can request one free from SW or download one from their webpage. This will show you how to take your pistol apart and clean it. A good cleaning will help make sure that it works properly.

180s are a popular bullet weight for the .40SW. If your gun shoots well with them, and you're not interested in light/fast bullets for personal defense, there's no reason not to practice with 180 grain ball and then find a 180 gr JHP that your pistol works well with.
 
Posts: 6694 | Location: Virginia | Registered: 12 October 2003Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Use the cheap stuff for practice, but when you are ready to start carrying it for self defense, I'd recommend you buy expensive, high quality, major manufacturer ammo. Most of the big ammo makers now sell ammo specifically engineered for self defense use. Look for that, but be prepared for sticker shock at the cash register. But then again, you don't want to go cheap when defending your life or your family's lives.

I carried a 4006 when on patrol, before going into detectives, and sometimes there too. Great, reliable gun. Built like a tank.


NRA Life Member
Retired Police Detective '71-'01 / HR-218 Certified
Navy Vet. (Aviation) '65-'69

United States Constitution (c) 1791
All Rights Reserved.
 
Posts: 607 | Location: NW Oregon | Registered: 15 May 2007Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Gator/Pioneer I'm a little smarter now thanks to your replies. As I do more web searching I am learning that smaller grain appear to have faster speed and I assume this translates to stopping/killing power? And hollow points I'm guessing are better than standard lead in regards to killing power? Right now I want cheap,fairly accurate so I can get familiar with the gun at the range. But home defense is one of the reasons I bought this weapon so that is a concern. But I'm thinking a 40 cal 180gr standard lead bullet still has knock down potential against a bad guy.
 
Posts: 51 | Registered: 31 March 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Whether faster and lighter translates into better stopping power depends on which theory you believe in regarding the presumed mechanisms behind such. In general you want to make sure that you have a load that operates reliably in your particular weapon, and one which you can shoot accurately from that weapon. Once that is accomplished, determine whether you think that you want penetration up to the classic FBI standard (12 in.), Border Patrol standard (9 in.) or IWBA suggestion (18 in.)

If you want to split the difference, you can try 165 gr JHPs. If you go to www.midwayusa.com, you'll find reasonable prices on the Fiochi version of such. It's not the best JHP ever made, but its not the worst either. The same company sells a neat load that uses a 170 grain truncated cone FMJ that does an interesting job of penetrating things.

Alternately, your local Walmart will probably have UMC .40 caliber JHPs, which I *think* are 180s, but you'll have to check the box.

The JHPs will ideally expand, creating a bigger hole. Penetration comes first, but after penetration, a bigger hole is better.

I personally don't believe kinetic energy is as important as momentum, so have a certain preference for heavier bullets.

If all you have is FMJs, then try to get ones with a flat point to them, as this will cut a better wound channel than ones with a rounded tip. A 40 SW round with the 180 grain bullet roughly duplicates the ballistics of the old .38-40, which sufficed to put a great many men in their graves long before JHPs were around. There would be some danger of overpenetration, but it will certainly be deadly if properly placed.
 
Posts: 6694 | Location: Virginia | Registered: 12 October 2003Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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In all but the weakest cartridges, mid-weight bullets generally work well. A well designed, good quality mid-weight JHP is what I usually use. I would rather use a heavier bullet than one that's too light.


Don't carry a gun because of what may happen today. Carry because once, just once, and at the least likely time imaginable, you may run into the worst monster you ever could imagine. Be their worst nightmare and resist them with all the stubbornness that our pioneer ancestors posessed. To do less is to be unamerican.
 
Posts: 3124 | Location: The Rust Belt Buckle/Michigan | Registered: 06 September 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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For the O.P. - you first stated you bought two bags of bullets, so I figured you're a reloader - then it became more apparent you have fully loaded ammunition. i'e' a cartridge
consistes of bullet + powder, + primer along with a brass case just litting you know you need to know the correct nomenclature/terms fro a common reference when you pose questions.

WHen you become more experienced and settle on something you think or have been advised as to it being a good Home defense/Self defense round, you would do well to locate a supplier of the same weight bullet so but cheaper so that your practice ammo and "defense" ammo hits close to the same Point of Aim/Impact.


Do not go gentle into that good night,
Old age should burn and rave at close of day;
Rage, rage against the dying of the light. - Dylan Thomas
 
Posts: 922 | Location: SE Wash. State | Registered: 10 September 2007Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by BlindJustice:
For the O.P. - you first stated you bought two bags of bullets, so I figured you're a reloader - then it became more apparent you have fully loaded ammunition. i'e' a cartridge
consistes of bullet + powder, + primer along with a brass case just litting you know you need to know the correct nomenclature/terms fro a common reference when you pose questions.

WHen you become more experienced and settle on something you think or have been advised as to it being a good Home defense/Self defense round, you would do well to locate a supplier of the same weight bullet so but cheaper so that your practice ammo and "defense" ammo hits close to the same Point of Aim/Impact.

Blindjustice thanks for the correction, yes I purchased ready to shoot cartridges/ammunition. I'll try to use proper terms in the future. Keep the suggestions coming.
 
Posts: 51 | Registered: 31 March 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Well, I wasn't trying to bust your 'you knows' But, just go out and shoot and get used to your gun is most important at this point The Home Defense/Self Defense/Carry load
might run 60 cents or more each but you should be able to find a similiar weight bullet loaded off the shelf that is the same velocity for practice and range time so you practice and know where your load goes, so you don't have to adjust during the heat of the moment.

For instance I have a bunch of 200 gr. Leadhead SWC cast bullets loaded up to about 1000 FPS in .45 ACP for my 1911 and S&W .45 ACP
revolver. Those bullets cost a little over 7 cents each.... I am going to get some Hornady 200gr. XTP JHPs loaded to the same velocity THey run a dime more per bbullet. so every 10 rounds I'm saving a dollar.

Practicing with wimp loads is penny wise pound foolish. imo

The aforementioned load is a quantity buy by my spec. an off the shelf economy like buy might
be Blazer vs Win. SXT JHP both 230 gr. weight.


Do not go gentle into that good night,
Old age should burn and rave at close of day;
Rage, rage against the dying of the light. - Dylan Thomas
 
Posts: 922 | Location: SE Wash. State | Registered: 10 September 2007Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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I went back and re-read your original
post. The S&W 4006 nice gun for your first it was designed for the .40 S&W from the ground up. I have a friend about 80 miles north of me who has an S&W M&P in .40 S&W - we're going to go to the range sometime when I'm up in SPokane Wash. and I can try a .40 S&W for the first time and he wants to try my S&W 1911. My S&W 1911 is a .45 ACP of course, I also have a .400 COrBon barrel for it that needs fitting. I bought 500 155 gr. SWC Leadhead bullets in .40 cal that I was going to get loaded as a cheap practice round for the .400 COrBon but problem is if they're loaded to too much above 1000 FPS they miht lead to leading the barrel and the usual velocity loading for a .400 CorBon is 1350 FPS. SO, I'm going to sit on the .40 SWC until I get a .40 S&W and find a better practice bullet for a 500 quantity custom load purchase. FYI the .400 COrBOn is a necked down .45 ACP that uses the same magazines as a .45 ACP so it's a simple swap of barrels in the 1911. I may buy 500 brass cases in .40 S&W and get it loaded to 1,000 FPS sell some to my friend in SPokane for my cost Hold some of it just to have it in stock so to speak. WIth rising ammo prices I'll wait for the right pistol deal for one in .40 S&W.


Do not go gentle into that good night,
Old age should burn and rave at close of day;
Rage, rage against the dying of the light. - Dylan Thomas
 
Posts: 922 | Location: SE Wash. State | Registered: 10 September 2007Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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rfuerst911sc

Asking these types of questions is going to result in many seemingly contradicting and confusing answers from many different members. There is no single best ammo. Some folks have different preferences for ammo, generally based on what they have been taught over the years. The problem is, some of that teaching includes old wife’s tales outdated information and ammo myths. Beware of the advise from someone who says you must carry what he carries, or you are an idiot.

I prefer heaver hollow point / expanding bullets driven at a high velocity, such as you would find in +P loadings. Not all firearms are able to fire +P, so check your owner's manual to be sure. My experience is as a homicide investigator & lifetime cop, using real world bullet performance. I prefer .40 S&W, and .45 acp for self defense. I carry Federal Expanding Full Metal Jacket, 200 grain, rated +P.

Some folks like lighter, faster bullets, some like full metal jacket bullets, or soft points. Some decide on ammo based upon energy velocity and trajectory tables.

Bear in mind, a pistol, any pistol, is not the best self defense weapon you can find. Pistols are not good fight stoppers and the idea of a one-shot-stop from a pistol is largely a myth. Sure, it happens, but rarely. Clint Smith of Thunder Ranch ( http://www.thunderranchinc.com/ ) likes to remind us that the purpose of a pistol, is to fight your way to your long gun.

One final thing. Self defense shooting does not mean self defense killing. The idea is to stop the aggression of an attacker. If the attacker dies in the process, that's too bad, but your goal is stop, not to kill. That, my friend, could wind you up in a bit of legal trouble.


NRA Life Member
Retired Police Detective '71-'01 / HR-218 Certified
Navy Vet. (Aviation) '65-'69

United States Constitution (c) 1791
All Rights Reserved.
 
Posts: 607 | Location: NW Oregon | Registered: 15 May 2007Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by Pioneer461:
rfuerst911sc

Asking these types of questions is going to result in many seemingly contradicting and confusing answers from many different members. There is no single best ammo. Some folks have different preferences for ammo, generally based on what they have been taught over the years. The problem is, some of that teaching includes old wife’s tales outdated information and ammo myths. Beware of the advise from someone who says you must carry what he carries, or you are an idiot.

I prefer heaver hollow point / expanding bullets driven at a high velocity, such as you would find in +P loadings. Not all firearms are able to fire +P, so check your owner's manual to be sure. My experience is as a homicide investigator & lifetime cop, using real world bullet performance. I prefer .40 S&W, and .45 acp for self defense. I carry Federal Expanding Full Metal Jacket, 200 grain, rated +P.

Some folks like lighter, faster bullets, some like full metal jacket bullets, or soft points. Some decide on ammo based upon energy velocity and trajectory tables.

Bear in mind, a pistol, any pistol, is not the best self defense weapon you can find. Pistols are not good fight stoppers and the idea of a one-shot-stop from a pistol is largely a myth. Sure, it happens, but rarely. Clint Smith of Thunder Ranch ( http://www.thunderranchinc.com/ ) likes to remind us that the purpose of a pistol, is to fight your way to your long gun.

One final thing. Self defense shooting does not mean self defense killing. The idea is to stop the aggression of an attacker. If the attacker dies in the process, that's too bad, but your goal is stop, not to kill. That, my friend, could wind you up in a bit of legal trouble.[/QUOTE

Pioneer good summary. As a newbie I'm just trying to learn what I can via internet but my purchases will be based on real world shooting at the range. I really purchased this pistol to use at the range once or twice a month and to have as a deterent at home if something bad happens. I'm not a police officer,not ex military and have no visions of sitting in the dark waiting for the bad guy so I can blast him. Rest assured I'm not making fun of law enforcement or the military I respect what they do, I'm just a average homeowner that wants to get into pistol shooting. Once I find a round that shoots well in my gun that I think does what I want that's the round I'll try to stay with. I appreciate everyones feedback.
 
Posts: 51 | Registered: 31 March 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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