For some time now I've been using .38 Special SWC reloaded ammo for range practise. The gun I'm using is a Model 66-3. The last time I used it I guess I left it a little too long before cleaning it. There was considerable blackening around the entrance to the forcing cone.

Last week I tried to clean it off. First I tried Break Free which has always done a pretty good job. It wasn't working so I applied it again and left it for 24 hours. It hardly helped at all. Next I tried a new one I'm trying, Lube Job which is a solvent and more. It says on the can that it cleans, lubricates and protects. I put it on for another 24 hours and it didn't help. Lastly I went out to the shed and grabbed a bottle of #9 Hoppe's solvent. As I began to rub it on I saw black marks on the rag. Left it over night and it removed most of the leading. There's still a little there.

Question is, what works best for you for lead, and is it true that the older solvents are still the best?

And a confession; I never feel like I've cleaned any of my guns unless I finish them off with Hoppe's lubricating oil. Maybe I'm superstitious, maybe just old-fashioned but it sure makes me feel good.

The ones you mentioned are not particularly good for lead. If you like Hoppe's, they make a copper/lead solvent, as do Shooter's Choice, etc. Read the label and use as directed; they can remove things you might not intend.

Thanks, OKFC05 I'll go grab a bottle. Seems I'll be mostly using lead bullets in the gun now.

Along with Hoppe's I've found there's no substitute for a good stiff brush to remove Lead fouling.

Yeah Arch, I used to have a good brass one here, looked like a toothbrush with brass bristles but I can't find it anywhere. Going by a gunshop tomorrow to pick up the Hoppe's lead solvent and I'll see if they have them there. If not, Dick's is only a few miles further on.

Hoppes Benchrest.Works overnight.There are others that work as fast as 15 min.I use the Hoppes.

quote:

Originally posted by cowboy117:
Hoppes Benchrest.Works overnight.There are others that work as fast as 15 min.I use the Hoppes.

Thanks Cowboy! I guess that's the name of the Hoppe's one that OKFC05 mentioned up there. I'll run with it.

quote:

Originally posted by Drake:
Yeah Arch, I used to have a good brass one here, looked like a toothbrush with brass bristles but I can't find it anywhere. Going by a gunshop tomorrow to pick up the Hoppe's lead solvent and I'll see if they have them there. If not, Dick's is only a few miles further on.

Different wire brushes are available at welding supply places. One of those places might have just the right brush for the job.

quote:

Originally posted by flop-shank:

quote:

Originally posted by Drake:
Yeah Arch, I used to have a good brass one here, looked like a toothbrush with brass bristles but I can't find it anywhere. Going by a gunshop tomorrow to pick up the Hoppe's lead solvent and I'll see if they have them there. If not, Dick's is only a few miles further on.

Different wire brushes are available at welding supply places. One of those places might have just the right brush for the job.

AhHAH. Good thought, Flop, I'll be poking around tomorrow. Might bone up on Yellow Pages afore I go out.

Get a can of Kroil and mix it 50/50 with your favorite solvent. It'll cut your cleaning time literally in half. For severe leading use it straight and let it soak for 15min.

Kano Kroil and a wad of Chore-Boy copper scrub pad filaments wrapped around an old bore brush.

Midway has Kroil on sale this month for $4.95 a can.

The lewis lead removal tool is a godsend for heavy leading. Uses a brass screen pressed firmly against the bore, and usually only takes one pass, after hitting the bore with a little hoppes #9 to lube it up. Then proceed with your normal cleaning.

I agree; the lewis lead remover works like a charm
and saves a lot of time with solvents and brushes! Another product that works very well to remove lead from the cylinder face on stainless revolvers is the Rig lead wipe rag. Just don't use
the lead wipe rag on blue guns. A regular pencil eraser will also take the lead off of the cylinder face.

quote:

Originally posted by nitesite:
Kano Kroil and a wad of Chore-Boy copper scrub pad filaments wrapped around an old bore brush.

I use Chore-Boy. Purchase it very cheaply from the local grocery store. Just wrap it around an old bore brush and swab the barrel back and forth for a minute or two.

Works like magic!

I used to be really paranoid about leading. Since I've started using the Kroil and Chore boy, I don't consider leading to be a big deal at all.

WARNING- Many of the "copper" scrubbing pads are now made of steel with a thin copper plating. Probably not what you want to use inside your barrel.