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  #1  
Old 11-28-2011, 08:58 PM
Speedo2 Speedo2 is offline
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Old 11-28-2011, 09:09 PM
Joni_Lynn Joni_Lynn is offline
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The lever to open the gun should still be right of center when the gun is closed. As the locking bolt wears the gun self adjusts and the lever will be seen to come to rest more to the left. Center is ok, slightly right of center is ok, left of center means it wasn't kept properly lubricated and the locking bolt (at a minimum) is worn.
These old Brownings are some of the best deals going for nice O/U's.
Pigeon grade will rust quickly if given a chance.

Let me add that if this gun has been run over a trap and or skeet field a lot it may have more wear on it than you want. A properly maintained one will NOT fall open like a loose gun wen the top lever is pushed over.
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Old 11-28-2011, 09:23 PM
Freischütz Freischütz is offline
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These folks can help you:

Shotgunworld.com • View forum - Browning Shotguns
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Old 11-28-2011, 11:15 PM
haggis haggis is offline
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One thing I know from experience, a Superposed will kick the snot out of you, compared to a Citori with the same stock dimensions. I don't know why, but it does.

Buck
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Old 11-29-2011, 02:01 AM
wraco wraco is offline
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There's only one shotgun that fits me as well as my Model 12's and that's my Browning Superposed. Mine is a skt over skt and is deadly on grouse and pheasants. It comes up on target just like a Model 12. Even shot a few rounds of trap with it. These are a high point in shotguns. They're precision machined and fit like a glove. Nice and light with thin barrels and a hollowed out stock. But . . . if the action is loose and wobbles when you open it up, walk away and look for one that's still tight.

The 1958 Superposed didn't use the salt treated walnut so no worries there. Also, a 1958 should be a round knob long tang gun, worth more than the flat knob short tang.

Take the shotgun and rest the muzzle on a padded chair and hold the butt with one hand and press down where the barrels meet the frame to see how much movement there is. If there is a little, it's fixable, the movement you really need to be concerned with is the hinge movement when the action is open. If it wobbles, then forget it.

The top movement and lazy lever is not as critical as some would think. The S/P locks up the old way with a sliding wedge plate at the bottom of the barrels compared to the Berettas and the rest that lock up near the top with a lock pin on each side. The lower locking plate is a tapered fit that takes up the wear on the lock plate but allows the lever to go past centre. Install a new lock plate and it's back to the right again.

Oh, one other thing with that lower locking plate. Crud gets in front of it inside the frame and doesn't allow it to fully seat when closed and that's what causes the top movement. Pull it apart and clean the crud out and it's fixed. But, the locking plate will then fully seat taking up the movement but will allow the lever to be even further to the left, so when you take it down for cleaning, install a new lock plate. ( approx. $75)

Hard to put a price on the one you're looking at. Mine's in nice shape and would sell for around $1200 to $1400, maybe a tad more, but a pigeon grade would command a premium over mine. If it's tight and in real nice condition . . . it could go the $2500.

Rod

Last edited by wraco; 11-29-2011 at 02:10 AM.
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Old 11-29-2011, 02:04 AM
wraco wraco is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by haggis View Post
One thing I know from experience, a Superposed will kick the snot out of you, compared to a Citori with the same stock dimensions. I don't know why, but it does.

Buck
I've never had that problem with mine, it's been nice and comfy and has the Browning pad. Could be your stock is too short.????

Rod
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Old 11-29-2011, 02:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wraco View Post
There's only one shotgun that fits me as well as my Model 12's and that's my Browning Superposed. Mine is a skt over skt and is deadly on grouse and pheasants. It comes up on target just like a Model 12. Even shot a few rounds of trap with it. These are a high point in shotguns. They're precision machined and fit like a glove. Nice and light with thin barrels and a hollowed out stock. But . . . if the action is loose and wobbles when you open it up, walk away and look for one that's still tight.

The 1958 Superposed didn't use the salt treated walnut so no worries there. Take the shotgun and rest the muzzle on a padded chair and hold the butt with one hand and press down where the barrels meet the frame to see how much movement there is. Like I said, the movement you really need to be concerned with is the hinge movement when the action is open. If it wobbles, then forget it.

The top movement and lazy lever is not as critical as some would think. The S/P locks up the old way with a sliding wedge plate at the bottom of the barrels compared to the Berettas and the rest that lock up near the top with a lock pin on each side. The lower locking plate is a tapered fit that takes up the wear on the lock plate but allows the lever to go past centre. Install a new lock plate and it's back to the right again.

Oh, one other thing with that lower locking plate. Crud gets in front of it inside the frame and doesn't allow it to fully seat when closed and that's what causes the top movement. Pull it apart and clean the crud out and it's fixed. But, the locking plate will then fully seat taking up the movement but will allow the lever to be even further to the left, so when you take it down for cleaning, install a new lock plate. ( approx. $75)

Hard to put a price on the one you're looking at. Mine's in nice shape and would sell for around $1200 to $1400, maybe a tad more, but a pigeon grade would command a premium over mine. If it's tight and in real nice condition . . . it could go the $2500.

Rod
I couldn't agree more in the first sentence if I had to. My 1961 is a round knob and it gets drug out in the duck-butter every chance I get here Up North. It gets used in the snow and sleet and sub-zero temperatures around Paxton Lodge on ptarmigan in the late winter. My 2 3/4" gun doesn't seem to kick bad at all and there is only the original butt-plate on it. My taste isn't for the fancier of the lot in the Pigeon grade, but locally there are a few for sale in fine condition and $2500 would have them gone by the weeks end here in Alaska. I also totally agree with the quoted post about the "loose" and cleaning issues. Mine opens easily with no slop at all and is "hot buttered-rum" smooth on a -10 degree night. For the money, I think it is pretty hard to beat a Superposed. JMO and good luck in your choice. Sprefix
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Old 11-29-2011, 09:16 AM
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They don't shoot steel.
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Old 11-29-2011, 11:29 AM
Damn Yankee Damn Yankee is offline
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In my opinion one of the finest trap guns ever made. My two have had uncounted thousands of shells fired in years of trapshooting and brought home more than my share of turkeys at the fall shoots. As far as recoil, stock fit is very important plus a few mods to make it shoot comfortable.

My son made these two stocks and I bought a reamer to lengthen the forcing cones. Bottom barrel is Improved Modified and it will grind birds all the way back to the fence.

In 2003 won the Senior Veteran 200 bird event using 1 oz shells






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Old 11-29-2011, 12:40 PM
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value and desirability would not only on condition,but bbl length, chokes, adn who did the engraving at the factory.if done by one of the masters,it could add 50% to the price of the gun.
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Old 11-29-2011, 04:26 PM
rbishop rbishop is offline
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Field model Superposed guns will bring more than the trap/skeet guns. Twelve gauge will also bring considerably less than a 20. The 28 gauge field choked superposed are the most pricey, with a grade I in excellent condition bringing around $6,000 bucks in my neck of the woods. Condition and originality are king. Any re-finishing kills their value, as does stock cutting for a pad. I have owned alot of the field grade guns, several NIB. I love them, but don't know alot about the pigeon grade guns. They are pricey. Also beware of the salt wood guns but they came much later than the one you are looking at. If the pigeon grade you are looking at is all original, in excellent condition with field chokes (not skeet) it should be priced fairly. Not a steal by any means. A really really nice Grade I with field chokes will bring around $1,500.00. As you can tell I dont know much about the pigeon grades.

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Old 11-29-2011, 09:10 PM
Speedo2 Speedo2 is offline
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Old 11-29-2011, 09:38 PM
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You didn't say if the gun was a trap model or not. IF you buy it, for heaven's sake don't send it to Browning to get a new locking bolt or to fix or tighten it up. They keep them "forever" and their service seems not to be the best. I'd send it to Doug Braker, but there are others just as good and the cost will be a lot less than Browning will charge.

As to the old ones, I don't see a lot of them on the trap fields, and most shooters I know favor the Citori models often because of the difference in recoil. I always wanted a Broadway Trap, but never "pulled the trigger" when I saw one. A former All-American skeet shooter I know uses one pretty darn good.

A 1958 model predates the salt wood issue, but you should check around the metal edges and maybe take the stock off to make sure there's no sign of rust. Someone could have "up dated" the wood.

Although I shoot a Perazzi for trap, I have a couple of Brownings, a BT-99 and a Special Sporting Clays and, as with most Brownings, they are pretty bullet proof if reasonable care is taken with them.

If the lever is left of center, point that out to the seller. That ought to drop the price $300 or so.

Bob
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Old 04-04-2017, 06:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wraco View Post
There's only one shotgun that fits me as well as my Model 12's and that's my Browning Superposed. Mine is a skt over skt and is deadly on grouse and pheasants. It comes up on target just like a Model 12. Even shot a few rounds of trap with it. These are a high point in shotguns. They're precision machined and fit like a glove. Nice and light with thin barrels and a hollowed out stock. But . . . if the action is loose and wobbles when you open it up, walk away and look for one that's still tight.

The 1958 Superposed didn't use the salt treated walnut so no worries there. Also, a 1958 should be a round knob long tang gun, worth more than the flat knob short tang.

Take the shotgun and rest the muzzle on a padded chair and hold the butt with one hand and press down where the barrels meet the frame to see how much movement there is. If there is a little, it's fixable, the movement you really need to be concerned with is the hinge movement when the action is open. If it wobbles, then forget it.

The top movement and lazy lever is not as critical as some would think. The S/P locks up the old way with a sliding wedge plate at the bottom of the barrels compared to the Berettas and the rest that lock up near the top with a lock pin on each side. The lower locking plate is a tapered fit that takes up the wear on the lock plate but allows the lever to go past centre. Install a new lock plate and it's back to the right again.

Oh, one other thing with that lower locking plate. Crud gets in front of it inside the frame and doesn't allow it to fully seat when closed and that's what causes the top movement. Pull it apart and clean the crud out and it's fixed. But, the locking plate will then fully seat taking up the movement but will allow the lever to be even further to the left, so when you take it down for cleaning, install a new lock plate. ( approx. $75)

Hard to put a price on the one you're looking at. Mine's in nice shape and would sell for around $1200 to $1400, maybe a tad more, but a pigeon grade would command a premium over mine. If it's tight and in real nice condition . . . it could go the $2500.

Rod
Sorry to resurrect this thread but I am having the same issue with my 1950 Superposed. Just wondering if you could Identify what part the locking plate is? I cant seem to find it on any drawings? On this PDF there is a part called the locking bolt
B1333290 Is that what you are referring to? If not can you identify which part it is that I need from this drawing? Thank you.
http://www.midwestgunworks.com/images/supinertia.pdf
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Old 04-04-2017, 10:34 PM
wraco wraco is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sbrooker View Post
Sorry to resurrect this thread but I am having the same issue with my 1950 Superposed. Just wondering if you could Identify what part the locking plate is? I cant seem to find it on any drawings? On this PDF there is a part called the locking bolt
B1333290 Is that what you are referring to? If not can you identify which part it is that I need from this drawing? Thank you.
http://www.midwestgunworks.com/images/supinertia.pdf
I sent you a pm. . Hard to tell the correct part number off the drawing. At first glance it appeared as the top number above the locking lug B1333537, but looking again at the drawing it appears to be the lower number B1333290. . When you order the new lower locking lug they'll know what you want.
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