I have a question for you more knowledgable knife folks.
Do these "steels" wear out after while?
I have a handy steel that sits in my kitchen knife block that came with my Hoftritz knife set years ago and it seems like it doesn't do as good of a job anymore.

Nowhere near an expert, but if the groves have worn down it won't do it's job. Also, it should be magnetized.

But you should know that a knife steel is used to true up an edge, not to 'sharpen' a knife. If the blades have lost their bevel and edge badly, the steel won't bring them back all by itself.

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Pete.

Yes, steels do wear out, my last one lasted 10 or so years though. As PDL advised a steel is for re-alining the edge of the blade of your knife. I steel my kitchen knives after every use, as I find it easier to keep a blade sharp than to sharpen one.

I don't use steels anymore; they're too tricky. You've got to hit the knife blade at a precise angle to realign the edge and remove the burr(s). Too shallow an angle and all you're doing is scraping the side of the blade, too steep an angle and you're folding the edge over, ruining it. Upon researching the topic last year, I rediscovered the old barber's strop, a far better method to fine tune a blade after sharpening and occassionally re-truing an edge after use. I made my own from an old leather belt and was amazed at the edge you can put on a blade with just a piece of leather and the great thing about it is improperly performed stropping isn't going to ruin an edge as quickly and to the extent as an improperly used and/or poor condition steel will. It's a lot more forgiving.

I recommend anyone not fully happy with the results of using a steel look into finding or making a strop and reading up on how to use it.

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SWHF #448

The steel doesn't really sharpen the knife it is just like a strop at the barber shop. If you think about it the strop is leather and hones the blade, with that in mind a smooth steel will still hone an edge but the edge needs to be there already.

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Back to back World War Champs.

Our expert is no longer with us. Is there any one truly qualified to answer this question?

Yes, they can wear out. My Dad had one for so many years it was essentially a smooth steel rod.

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Still Running Against the Wind

I cut about a 1 foot piece from an old leather belt. I glued it with the back side up to a piece of plywood. I rubbed some polishing compound on the back and I use that to polish the edge after I sharpen it. It will put a mirror shine on the edge. It can restore the edge if it has not been dulled too much from use.

I have a few steels but I have not used them in years. I do use a diamond impregnated steel to put an edge on a dull knife, and then finish it with a ceramic rod.

The technique that I use depends on the type of knife that I am sharpening.

This is an excellent tutorial on knife edges and sharpening.

Knife Maintenance and Sharpening - The eGullet Culinary Institute (eGCI) - eGullet Forums

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Corripe Cervisiam

I use the Lansky knife sharpening system with the synthetic stones and a strop I bought from EBay. I am not a pro but it works nice.

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Livin’ Life From The Blindside

I thank you folks for the valuble info.
Joe, I like your idea, but that 4 x 8 piece of plywood in my kitchen won't work as it will block off my refrigerator and I won't be able to get to my beer.

I have a 27 piece set of Wusthof knives that get used daily. Each time I finish with a particular knife I'll run it down the steel a few times. I would say the set is about 10 years old and so far it still works quite well.

As far as the proper angle goes, you soon get used to he proper angle to steel the knife and it quickly becomes second nature. You can actually feel and hear the proper angle after a while.

Back in the 1970s I knew a guy whose family owned a slaughterhouse. He said when they got new sharpening steels they immediately ground off the grooves, because smooth steels made the knives last much longer.


Or is that "knifes?"

The most common mistake in sharpening knives is too much pressure. DON"T get in a hurry. Max pressure with a steel will accelerate wear on the steel & cause knicks, or uneven edge on the blade. Remember it's to dress the blade, not agress the blade.

With a steel or stone, use a light soft stroke. Don't hurry, concentrate on angle & stroke from hilt to tip always running the blade toward the cutting edge.

+1...that pretty much hit the nail right on the head. Steels wear out very fast if used to "sharpen" your knife. They are only meant to dress and it has to be done right. I shave with a straight razor and a strop is a must do thing or it just wont work right. Some guys use a piece of balsa wood about 1/4" thick or so impregnated with polishing/rubbing/stropping compound in lieu of the more conventional leather strop. The porous balsa holds more of the compound and works a little faster. Balsa is probably easier to find at a hobby store than a big ol strap of nice smooth leather. We also use a piece of fire hose type sort of canvas material on the back of a leather strop that is supposed to clean and heat up the edge first.

I've been using ceramic rods to re-dress knife edges followed by a steel to finalize for years with superb results. Rarely a blade requires a wet stone honing then a follow up with the steel. Nothing worse than a dull knife!

My steel is smooth and does a fine job.

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Front sight and squeeze

Surely you jest?

I quit using a steel years ago. I keep an Arkansas stone in the drawer by the knives. I use a stone for sharpening.

Try cutting off a piece the width of the belt. Hold off on the beer until you have made the cut.

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Corripe Cervisiam

NO, it's OK I have his address in WI so I send my knifes to him for polishing.

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Still Running Against the Wind

Two types of steels rough and smooth, steels do not sharpen a knife only unroll the edge of the knife. A ceramic rod will do a do good job of cutting a new edge. If the steel is smooth use 240 emery cloth to clean it. Use 80 grit if it rough , and try to pull straight lines that do not cross. Use very light strokes to stand the edge up. Hold the blade at 22-24 degree angle against the steel , again light strokes . If the knife needs sharpening a steel will not help much. Sharpening a knife is whole different story and there are many different ways to sharpen a knife. I have used a knife every day at work for the last 25 years. High carbon knives are easier to use but they rust , stainless steel knives are too hard but do not rust.

Kitchen knives get sharpened on a fine (600 grit) steel as needed. Planes and chisels get either a 1000/6000 grit water stone or 400 and 800 grit wet/dry sandpaper depending on which is closest to where I am at the time. Straight razors get 50 laps on leather after every use and 30 laps on .5 micron CrOx on balsa once every other month.