I found one at Gander Mt. in what I would call decent condition compared to most I see.
Has a little blue wear in mainly the lever area, and a ****** scope that needs chunked, as I plan on using the sights.
Other features are that it has a round counter, gold trigger, swirled or jeweled bolt, and the rear sight is set in a sort of hump that is made into the barrel like a lot of older European made guns you see.
I've always been interested in these in 308, and was suprised to see that Gander Mt. has one in what I would call a decent price at $500+tax.
Now, I know next to nothing about these as I have never owned a lever gun, so what do I look for to make sure I don't end up with a junker?
How about that price of $500?

Price sounds fair for a 99 in that condition. Make sure that it is an original 308 chambering from the factory and not a 300 sav rechambered. The rotary mag will only take just so long of a loaded cartridge. I'm not a M 99 expert having worked on just a few, but I get the impression that you are describing a model of that rifle that is older than the introduction of the .308 Win. Maybe not and you have found a very early production .308. The M 99 in .308 is a great deer rifle and is just heavy enough that the apparent recoil is mild. If you can go back and get a picture or two it would help an expert to identify the exact M 99 model of rifle it is. While you are there, use a bore light and inspect the barrel and the muzzle for damage. ........ Big Cholla

I am by no means a Savage 99 expert so maybe someone who knows
more than I do can provide more information. I have one, a pre war
EG model in .300 Savage caliber. The older guns seem to sell for
more than the later guns like the .308. The take down models go for
more money. The .308 you're looking at probably isn't a junker but
several things can lower the value. You really need to take someone
with you if you can't evaluate the gun. Too much to go into here. It's
the same things to look for regardless of make and model, like cut
stocks, extra holes, refinished wood or metal, bore condition. If you're
a handloader realize that you're going to get case stretching in a high
pressure round like the .308 in a 99 action.

If you're looking for an antique: For purposes other than handling, don't touch the stock. It'll have dings and cracks (most notably coming of the rear tang) but don't touch that stock! Check the buttplate and assure yourself of its origin. There are a number of reproductions on the market. Find a steel one and you're good to go on that account. Last but not least, start researching by Binging the brand and number. It won't be long before you find more reading material than one might otherwise desire.

If you wish to have one for shooting: Check the usual suspects like the barrel and its grooves. The Savage 99 came with a number of rear sight options and, back in those olden days, the manufacturer didn't drill for optical sights.

I recently acquired a 30/30 99, but had looked for years before finding one that hadn't had a stock refinish or buggered sights.

Without knowing anything else about yours than that stated above, $500 sounds like a decent deal but solidly in the middle of the ballpark for used 99s that haven't anything unique about them.

Good luck. They're an awesome weapon.

Three of 'em listed here at right around the same price. I have a 99B Takedown in 30-30 Winchester. They are wonderfully well thought out rifles. Way ahead of the times they were made.

__________________
Bob

I'd be interested in following this. Here's a place to check the year of manufacture.

Savage 1895/1899/99 Dates of Manufacture

I know my 99F in .308 handles as good as any rifle I've ever had. It shoots pretty good too, especially for a featherweight.

__________________
Wayne
Torn & Frayed

I sometimes think I know a lot about Savages, until I get on the Savage Collectors forum on 24Hour Campfire. The guys that hang out there know almost everything between them (although they don't always agree). The gold trigger is a sign of a late model, fine for shooting, but of little interest to most collectors. Where are you going to find a good hunting rifle in a fine caliber at a better price?

There are two things I can relate to you about the 99.

1. I have never heard of anything bad about the Savage 99, regardless of caliber or age.

2. Finding a good one for under $500 is getting to be tough!

My brother had been looking for one in 300 Savage and together we had been looking for over two years. Two years ago finally found a decent gun for $360 at an auction, mainly because it had an after market recoil pad fitted. That was fine for my bro because he was looking for a deer rifle to haul around the woods, not a collector piece to sit in the cabinet. Had it been all original the cost would have been closer to $650.



In my view, they were one of the best lever actions made.

John

The 308 Winchester round was designed from the 300 savage.

$500 is a very attractive price for a 99F in 308 Winchester, assuming it is in good condition. There were a few early 308s manufactured before Savage made changes to the frame to better accommodate the slightly longer Winchester caliber. It is said that some of these early ones have feeding problems. A quick google search should educate you on the approximate serial number range where this change was made.

A 99 Savage with a serial number lower than one million is more desirable than a later model, all other things being equal.

Things you should look for are a crack in the stock where it meets the upper tang, sling swivel studs installed, any non factory holes drilled into the receiver, and an added recoil pad. These are common, and devalue a rifle considerably. The lever should be color case hardened. If it's blue, that's a sure sign the gun's been refinished.

I had a 250/3000 from 1921 with peep sight and ivory bead front, a take down model. I couldn't see well enough for the peep sight, so sold it last yr for $1100. They can get pricey.

This yr was looking for a deer/black bear rifle and the 358 Winchester sounded just right. They made them originally in the 99, but they are hard to find and can run $1200 - $1500 for a nice one. I wanted a shooter, so found one on GB from a guy who has a good reputation for reboring 308's into 358 win (358 is a necked up 308 that allows use of heavier bullets). It has no finish left on receiver or wood and the bbl shows 60% blue. But it shoots and I don't have to wipe off finger prints. Just what I was looking for . $530. the only problem I have with it is a long heavy trigger pull. The 250/3000 was nice and crisp. The pro's say to NEVER touch the 99 trigger as they can go boom when you close the lever if you monkey around with the sear.

Charlie

Got my first deer back in 72' with a m99 in "303" savage*

---> Savage Model 99 - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

~ Don

Bought it, and it is a 99F.
It works as I shot 5 rounds to test it.
Downside is that it has sling swivles, someone lightly scratch their SS# into the bottom of the reciever, and someone filed the thumb thingy off of the rear sight ramp, which should be easy to replace.
I'm happy, as it is less messed with than most I see.

If your 99f is in .308 that means it's one of the fine later ones with full, yet light fore-ends. Mine is 1955 in .243. My dad carved it in the early 60s. I always post this one when this great lever action is brought up.

The barrel boss for the rear sight is the telltale sign of an "F", which is a featherweight model. I'd say you got a good deal on a fine deer rifle. Let's see some pictures.