Renaissance Wax Advice?

[OutAtTheEdge]

Based on the practically countless references and recommendations I've read here about Ren Wax, I decided it would behoove (under-used word of the day) me to lay in a supply, and just a few minutes ago the package landed on my porch.

The instructions seem pretty straight forward, but I figured it wouldn't hurt to consult The Brain Trust for it's combined wisdom on the subject. So, everyone? Any preferred uses, methods, off-label suggestions? Does it also cure warts or improve wi-fi speed? What say you all?

[pmosley]

Apply lightly with finger, buff with soft cloth




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[arjay]

The surface needs to be clean of any grease or oil. Use your favorite solvent to get them off and let that evaporate first (try not to inhale too much ;-) )

[robertrwalsh]

Good stuff. I used it on edged weapons a lot too. Keeps my battle axe collection from getting funky. (Actually it's my girlfriend's battle axe collection, but mostly I maintain it for her.)

[CajunBass]

I've used it on guns, knives, wood, leather, and probably some other stuff I don't remember.

Apply it with a fingertip. Buff it off with a soft cloth. I ordered some undershirts once and selected the wrong size by mistake. Rather than bother to send them back, they became "gun rags." Work great.

[Frailer]

I agree with “apply lightly and buff with soft cloth,” but I’d add that I prefer to wax one relatively small area (e.g. barrel, cylinder, grip frame) before moving onto the next one. If applied too heavily or if left to dry completely before buffing you can end up with a hazy buildup.

[murphydog]

Renaissance Pre-Lim is good for surface preparation.

[MetalMan]

Originally Posted by pmosley

Apply lightly with finger, buff with soft cloth

For me (YMMV), and after ensuring that the mating surfaces are clean and dry, I apply a thin coating of RenWax to both the grip frame and back sides of the grips (the side which faces the grip frame). I re-attach the grips without wiping any of the wax off from either surface.

I do remove the wax periodically when I clean the firearm and re-apply before re-holstering or moving back to the safe.

I use this process both for wood and rubber/synthetic grips.

[WCCPHD]

Depending on the size can you bought, you might update your will to decide who to leave it to. I bought a medium size can 10 years ago and I've barely scratched the surface.

[Truckman]

If it wasn't so expensive, I'd use it on my truck......Ben

[Imissedagain]

Originally Posted by murphydog

Renaissance Pre-Lim is good for surface preparation.

I use Pre-Lim for knives, flat table surfaces of machines etc etc, but never on blued or stainless firearms.
Any pros/cons with firearms?

Testing RenWax on our .5mm wood, laminated with West System epoxy, as a finish for 1911 slabs.
Does not darken the colors as much as Tru-Oil or Hope's Tung Oil.
Jury is still out.

Pics of grips, sanded to about 180, not in the correct grain direction or beveled yet, just a test for color change.

All firearms are cleaned and then RenWax applied if they are not being used, except for photos.

Just remembered, I use RenWax on my Graf hockey skates and carbon fiber speed skate boots.

[Rustyt1953]

I used to achieve excellent results by using it on vintage tweed covered amps and guitar/bass cases at the shop.

A little goes a long way.

[pasound]

I use it after cleaning all my firearms, nickeled, blued, and stainless. Also naturally finished wood, such as my canes. I found that like stated above, it can look a little hazy if it dries completely, but it will still polish up, just takes longer. Old sweatshirt fabric makes good application/polishing cloth.

[Imissedagain]

If I go bald, I might try RenWax on my head, especially with the full moon out, for illumination in addition to bicycle lights.

On a serious note, I use RenWax for bedding revolver grips to frames and casting parts. Dries quick and thin.
Adaptor for Ruger Officer for 8 round mags.
8+1, just for range fun.
Old pic before completed.
Carried with OEM mags, 7+1

[lamarw]

I am a big fan and have used it for years. Be careful on revolvers and do not get it into the cylinder release. Also, do not use on guns with parkerized finishes. Pre-Lim is also a good recommendation particularly for older firearms to brightening up dull finishes prior to applying the wax.

[huthike]

I use a microfiber cloth or fingers to rub it on then a microfiber cloth to buff it off. Finish just glows and is very protective. Use it on the wood grips too.

[Fullmetaljacket]

Works great on vintage S&W boxes too. Brightens up the color nicely.

[TheTinMan]

I’ve tried warming up the surface of metal just a bit before applying RenWax - seems to help when you have removed a little surface rust without going through the blueing.

Also be careful around any checkering in wood. It’s a PITA to get out of small groves.