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Old 04-17-2016, 10:32 PM
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My son-in-law who is now deceased bought several Lugers but finally sold all but one. He gave that to me to keep and enjoy and then give to my daughter when I was ready. It is cosmetically in excellent condition but has a big problem. After three or four shots it goes fully automatic which gave me a big surprise when I tried to shoot it.
I took it to a gunsmith who has lots of experience but not with Lugers. He
says the internal parts still look like new. He has disassembled it and reassembled it several times with the same result. He is trying to find a new sear to try but having no luck. Most parts that you find are used.
Does anyone have any experience with that type of problem or know a source for parts. Any help would be appreciated.
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Old 04-17-2016, 10:44 PM
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All I can say is that I know of one instance where the ATF prosecuted a gun owner whose gun was malfunctioning and going full auto. If all you can find are used sears try one of those. Maybe better than the one you have.
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Old 04-17-2016, 10:47 PM
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This board should be able to help you.

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Old 04-18-2016, 12:09 AM
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Take a look at the trigger spring. A simple coil spring that gives the trigger it's tension and return movement.

Sometimes people would replace the original with a weaker replacement trying to get a better/lighter trigger pull on the Lugers less than target grade trigger pull.

While that would give the effect of a lighter pull, it sometimes leads to occasional 'doubling' or multiple round full-auto fire.
The pistol, in recoil from one round being fired, returns forward in the hand and the lightened trigger is inadvertently pulled as the gun is bouncing back forward in the hand.
Same effect as some shooters are able to 'bump fire' some semi-auto' firearms to mimic full auto fire.

The sear bar to firing pin engagement should be looked at.
Remove the rear toggle from the front toggle/breech block.
Place the breechblock w/ firing pin in the frame extension but w/o it's spring.
Put the pistol back together pushing the breech block shut but having the firing pin cocked on the sear bar.
Now see if you can 'push-off' the firing pin from the rear of the frame with a rod or screw driver.
You are testing the engagement against just the flat spring tension on the sear bar.
You shouldn't be able to 'push off' the firing pin from the sear bar.

If you can, then then there's a good chance that the shock of the closing breech is dislodging the firing pin sear edge from the sear bar and allowing it to drop, firing another (and another) cartridge just as the breech closes.

Firing pin & sear bar should both be matching ser# to the pistol.
Non-matching # may indicated sear surfaces not mating correctly.
Even so, check carefully for the above attempts to correct the 'bad Luger trigger pull' by someone with a stone and diamond file.

A long shot,, but make sure the firing pin tip has not broken off and lodged in the face of the breech bolt making it slam fire like a STEN after the first round.
The Luger will fire as the bolt comes closed,
so the pin tip could be standing proud of the breech face a few .000 and still have the action function Ok for manual charging on the first round.
Plus a full or nearly full magazine can slow the breech down in motion w/enough upward pressure on the underside of it so the problem still doesn't show itself till a few rounds are out of the mag.

Just some thoughts..
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