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  #1  
Old 04-21-2016, 06:59 AM
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I saw one at Cabelas that looked to be in very good original condition. I can't remember the price, but I do remember that it didn't seem outrageous to me.
What is a ballpark on one of those?
What's to look out for other than checking serial numbers and such?
I'm not familiar with them, but I do like picking up a piece of history, not a piece of junk.
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Old 04-21-2016, 07:31 AM
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You probably won't get it for 17.00$ like my dad did his in the 60's through the NRA deal back then, oh he did have to pay the shipping through the U.S. Mail at the time....

As for the rifle it's self an excellent firearm, maybe strongest action ever of a US Military bolt action. If I recall correctly when he got his a gunsmith offered to re-chamber it for a 300 H&H magnum for him in case he wanted to go to Africa or Alaska hunting elephants or grizzly's.
The 30-06 did everything he ever wanted.
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Old 04-21-2016, 07:34 AM
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Can't comment on current prices but IIRC, of the 3 manufacturers of P17's, Eddystone seemed to be less desirable and priced accordingly. This was years ago and I imagine tastes/trends may have changed. I know the prices have.
ETA: I agree that the P14/P17 Enfield had a strong action and of the 3 contractors/manufactures (Remington, Winchester and Eddystone (Remington at Eddystone, PA) the Winchester seemed to be most sought after with the Eddystone the least. I don't recall actual production numbers though but Remington did offer the same action (minus rear sight ears) commercially as the Model 30.
ETA: The P series Enfields were similar to the British SMLE in that they cocked on closing but IIRC, seems they could be converted to cock on opening and also while improving lock time.

Last edited by jack the toad; 04-21-2016 at 09:04 AM.
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Old 04-21-2016, 08:32 AM
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A rumor (?) started that Eddystone Model 1917s had weak receivers many years ago.
Eddystone much like low numbered Springfields Model 1903s did have some a few issues that caused rumors to start up. Low numbered Springfields had seven issues out of thousands manufactured. The Army recalled their for testing, Navy and Marines kept using theirs. Army found no issues from testing theirs.
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Old 04-21-2016, 10:20 AM
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Sold a decent original condition Eddystone 1917 a couple weeks ago for $600.Still have a nice Winchester 1917.
Dick
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Old 04-21-2016, 11:51 AM
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In the early 1960's, the DCM sold 1903A3 rifles for $14.50. I don't recall them selling any Enfield rifles. Those days are gone forever.
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Old 04-21-2016, 11:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jessie View Post
I saw one at Cabelas that looked to be in very good original condition. I can't remember the price, but I do remember that it didn't seem outrageous to me.
What is a ballpark on one of those?
What's to look out for other than checking serial numbers and such?
I'm not familiar with them, but I do like picking up a piece of history, not a piece of junk.
As a teenager back in the early 60s I bought one by mail
order for about $18 but prices are a little higher now. The
Eddystone is considered to be the least desirable model
1917 but even so a nice one might go for $500 or more on
GB. Assuming the gun looks original and unmolested the
number one thing to look out for is bore condition if you
expect to shoot it. I'm amazed at the number of buyers of
milsurps who buy rifles based on external condition, matching
numbers or whatever criteria they go by and never look
through the bore. Then they are upset when they find out
their new toy is useless as a shooter because of a rusty,
pitted and or counterbored barrel. Despite the faith you may
have in any dealer it's strickly buyer beware when buying old
milsurps. If you want to hang it on the wall it doesn't matter
but if you expect to shoot it take a good look at the bore
and muzzle condition.
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Old 04-21-2016, 12:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alwslate View Post
Assuming the gun looks original and unmolested the number one thing to look out for is bore condition if you
expect to shoot it...
... if you expect to shoot it take a good look at the bore
and muzzle condition.
+1
As being from a corrosive ammo era, absolutely...
Our AL Post's 03's have barrel dates from 1918 and 1919 with some dated 1943 but they all show signs of corrosive ammo use and not being properly cleaned. Some are worse than others.

Last edited by jack the toad; 04-21-2016 at 12:26 PM.
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Old 04-21-2016, 01:52 PM
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When I went through the Colorado School of Trades many years ago, the instructors didn't seem to think very highly of the Eddystones. One in particular swore they had a problem with several barrels that showed cracks in the barrels when subjected to dye/penetrant testing. Cracks in receiver rings were also mentioned. We were told then that under no circumstances should we rechamber an Eddystone to any .300 Magnum. I follow that advice to this day as one of the instructors is the best gunsmith I have ever seen and his advice has proved good over the years.
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Old 04-21-2016, 02:56 PM
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If it is original, with the correct stock and numbers matching, I've seen them going for 600 plus. If it's original steel, numbers matching, but a sporterized stock, maybe half that. If the steel has been modified, I wouldn't go more than 250.
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Old 04-21-2016, 03:16 PM
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Default Eddystone 1917

I've had a couple of nice ones in the shop over the last 6 months - sold one for $700 & one for $750 on Gunbroker.

Last edited by SteelFoxFirearms; 04-21-2016 at 03:17 PM.
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Old 04-21-2016, 03:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jack the toad View Post
+1
As being from a corrosive ammo era, absolutely...
Our AL Post's 03's have barrel dates from 1918 and 1919 with some dated 1943 but they all show signs of corrosive ammo use and not being properly cleaned. Some are worse than others.
Too many of the Legion and VFW post rifles are badly corroded not from the corrosive ammo used in service, but from a neglecting to clean them after firing blanks for salutes at funerals.

The Legion here had a couple of M1903 Mk. 1's that suffered greatly from blanks.
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Old 04-21-2016, 04:36 PM
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If you need a barrel, CMP has properly contoured Criterion barrels available. They are available for'03, '03A3,1917, M1, M1 Carbine, and Krag in both carbine and rifle configuration.
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Old 04-21-2016, 05:13 PM
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I bought one for my sons birthday in excellent condition with all numbers matching last August to start WW1 reenacting. $750
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Old 04-21-2016, 11:28 PM
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Many were rebilt during WW II. Check the barrel date. Original barels have five groove, Enfield type rifling (whatever that is) and left hand twist. They don't like boattail bullets.

Rebuilds will have 4 groove, right hand twist barrels. Unfortunatly when the original barrels were installed, they were put in VERY tightly. Removing them during WW II, caused some recievers to crack. If yours has been rebarreled, check for cracks in the receiver ring; they're very fine, and it helps to wipe the receiver with something like Hoppes whih will go into the crack and make it show up more.
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Old 04-22-2016, 01:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyrano View Post
Many were rebilt during WW II. Check the barrel date. Original barels have five groove, Enfield type rifling (whatever that is) and left hand twist. They don't like boattail bullets.

Rebuilds will have 4 groove, right hand twist barrels. Unfortunatly when the original barrels were installed, they were put in VERY tightly. Removing them during WW II, caused some recievers to crack. If yours has been rebarreled, check for cracks in the receiver ring; they're very fine, and it helps to wipe the receiver with something like Hoppes whih will go into the crack and make it show up more.
IIRC Enfield rifling has deliberately rounded corners where the bottom of the lands meet the grooves.

As for the issues with boat tail bullets, one theory is that many M1917s have the grooves cut too deep. Boat tails of the correct size work fine in Enfield No.1 and No.4 rifles, so there is no fundamental issue with that rifling and boat tail bullets.

I have read that Eddystone put on the barrels using a hydraulic device not used by Winchester or Remington. The gadget tweaked the barrels on too hard.
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Old 04-22-2016, 01:56 AM
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Some years back I bought a bubba'd Winchester model of 1917 that had the barrel cut back to 21" and stuck in a chopped '17 stock. Barrel was a Johnson Automatics 4 groove right hand twist. I finished the starting work bubba had done to the ears on the receiver, and set about polishing all the metal plus the buttplate and screws. I sent it out to get it drilled and tapped for weaver grand slam steel bases, bead blast and blued. Beautiful almost black finish and have a stock ready for it. The JA barrel has the slightest hint of being fired and should shoot very well. Frank
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Old 04-22-2016, 07:27 PM
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Thanks for the replies. I will probably pass on this one, considering.
If I go back and its as good as I remember after checking all you've brought to my attention, AND the price is too good to pass up....
Maybe it will be gone and I won't have to consider it.
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Old 04-22-2016, 08:48 PM
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I bought my Eddystone along with an 03A3 about 10 years ago for $600 for the both of them. At the time the going price was about $400 each, so I figured I got a deal. They were on consignment at a gun shop - the owner was thinning the herd. Both have "fouled" bores, but they both shoot very well.

I wouldn't discount a rifle just because of a bad bore. I have several Century Arms surplus Mausers and Mosins that had literally sewer pipe bores, but they are tack drivers. I usually shoot gas checked lead bullets. I slug the bore and size the bullet accordingly. As long as the barrel has strong rifling I find the accuracy is good.
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Old 04-23-2016, 04:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GypsmJim View Post
I bought my Eddystone along with an 03A3 about 10 years ago for $600 for the both of them. At the time the going price was about $400 each, so I figured I got a deal. They were on consignment at a gun shop - the owner was thinning the herd. Both have "fouled" bores, but they both shoot very well.

I wouldn't discount a rifle just because of a bad bore. I have several Century Arms surplus Mausers and Mosins that had literally sewer pipe bores, but they are tack drivers. I usually shoot gas checked lead bullets. I slug the bore and size the bullet accordingly. As long as the barrel has strong rifling I find the accuracy is good.
Hmm...sewer pipe bores, tack drivers, lead bullets. All I can
say is that if this is true your results are a long way from
typical. I learned the hard way a long time ago about milsurps
with sewer pipe and or counterbored barrels. There are rifles
out there with decent bores and buying one with a sewer
pipe bore seems about like going to the junkyard to find a
used car and trying to make do with it when the used car lots
have plenty in running condition. To each his own I guess.
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Old 04-23-2016, 08:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alwslate View Post
Hmm...sewer pipe bores, tack drivers, lead bullets. All I can
say is that if this is true your results are a long way from
typical. I learned the hard way a long time ago about milsurps
with sewer pipe and or counterbored barrels. There are rifles
out there with decent bores and buying one with a sewer
pipe bore seems about like going to the junkyard to find a
used car and trying to make do with it when the used car lots
have plenty in running condition. To each his own I guess.
The 06's I mentioned had what my old gunsmith would classify as a "fouled" bore, meaning it was "dark" from using corrosive ammo. Once cleaned up it was evident that were not heavily pitted and the rifling was strong. They shoot very well - not MOA accuracy, but certainly acceptable considering my aged eyesight.

Upon examination I would not deliberately buy a sewer pipe bore. However, back in the 1990's Century routinely offered "U-Fix-Ums" at a rediculously low price of $16, shipping included. That was a good source of bolts, stocks, hardware,etc. They were advertised at "incomplete", but often I received one with only a screw missing, or couldn't find ANYTHING missing. Sewerpipes were common.

Out of the box bullet tumbling was also common. But it was my experience that after cleaning if the rifling was strong, accuracy could be improved by sizing the bullet to fit the barrel.

BYW, I have an 03A3 and a Garand that both have pristine barrels and provide awesome results with lead bullets. In fact, with the exception of hunting rounds, all my rifles and handguns have been converted over to home brew hard cast lead boolits.
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Old 04-23-2016, 09:29 PM
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GpsmJin: I love cast bulets and have a bunch of moulds: everything from a 50 gr mould for the 25 ACP to a 450 gr mould for the 50-70. However, what I hear about firing cast bullets in the M1 is that leading will get into the gas system and soon fouls things up. It's the sort of fouling you see in the muzzle brakes of 22 target pistols: hard as a rock, difficult to move and impervious to solvents.
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