Hello. I know there are a lot of wheelgunners here. I love wheelguns. When you buy a revolver, how do you rank, in importance, the following characteristics of the revolver you're considering?

A) Cylinder lock up (tight, slight wiggle?)
B)Barrel indexing (is it canted, or clocked at 12?)
C) Trigger pull (is it nice and smooth and light?)

I just bought a brand new GP100. Barrel is indexed *perfectly* at 12. The trigger is the lightest and smoothest I've *ever felt* on a Ruger. Cylinder lock up has some wiggle / play with the trigger held back; but it's not that much.

I'd prefer the lock up to be tighter, and I hope it doesn't loosen more over time.

Any thoughts?

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I check all three and reject a gun where those 3 are not to my specs. I bought a new in the box GP100 last yr and was satisfied on all three counts. However, I did take it apart and got out my Dremmel and buffing wheel. I left the sear faces alone because I think they need stoning at precise angles and I don't have a jig. What I did was polish all the parts that slide/rub together to a mirror smooth finish and that dramatically improved the double action mode. It's still not as smooth as my 586, but a close second. What I like about my GP is that in DA I can stage the pull to just short of breaking then touch it off. The Smith just always surprises me when it fires. You think your GP is good now? Do that and then look up a guy in Michigan that makes and sells trigger and hammer shims for Rugers. Ruger Double Action
Those and a spring kit and it'll be slicker than owl sht.

You left out Mark I mod 0 eyeballing of b/c gap, consistancy of b/c gap. Consistancy of DA pull each cylnder

Unless it's an old Colt, you might get a little rotational movement in the cylinder. No big deal. If the yoke to frame fit is sloppy, that's a real red flag. Clocked barrel? Walk away. Trigger function? Depends on the gun. A really heavy or really light pull could denote internal problems. Used and new guns may have different sets of problems. Things to look for, are you ready? Timing, endshake, push off, bore quality, rust, pitting, screw heads, finish. Internal and external modifications. If a gun dirty, that's also an indicator of lack of care. I don't buy guns that I know are in need of repair. Good luck.

I check endshake and BC gap with feeler gauges. .004-.008 is my range of acceptablity on BC gap. I like endshake on rugers to be no more than .003

Congrats The GP has been on my list very nice

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Spin The Wheel

I check the following on a revolver before I purchase it (when in person, and in order):

- Overall damage and cleanliness, and to see if the screw heads are boogered - indicating the potential of a Neanderthal toying with the revolver at some point. If the grips are original, then that is also a pretty good indicator for me of the gun's use/abuse.

- Extractor rod concentricity/runout
- Damage to the star
- Cylinder endshake
- Yoke endshake
- Ensure that there is no lateral free play in the yoke when closed
- Barrel/cylinder gap with feeler gauges (must be between .003-.009, but prefer .004-.006)
- Timing in single and double action for entire cylinder
- Ensure that the firing pin (if applicable) protrudes past its hole in the frame when the hammer is eased down
- Push off
- Index of the barrel

I'm definitely not an expert S&W gunsmith, but I've had ~40 or so of their revolvers apart at some point in my life. There are probably indicators that I miss that others in here will be quick to point out, but I've yet to take home a lemon that I inspected in person.

Revolvers purchased over the internet now...that is a different story and the reason why I got into my S&W 'smithing hobby.

In addition to the things others, especially Soda Can, mention, I also check for frame cracks, and carefully run my fingers down the length of the barrel feeling for barrel bulges. I also check the cylinder - checking for any bulges, check the ratchet star, the extractor rod for straightness, and the cylinder notches to make sure they're in good shape. I also push against the closed cylinder to check the yoke gap to see if it has been "cowboyed". Also, I ask the seller to remove the grips to check for rust, see if the grips are numbered to the revolver, and check the appearance and condition of the mainspring. If the seller won't remove the grips, I have to decide whether to proceed or not, but I've got to say I really don't like to proceed unless I can look at the piece without the grips. Finally, I always like to ask if anything else is included with the revolver such as the original factory box, documents, etc., as well as any other accessories. Some times this works and you can get a holster or two, or extra ammo, sometimes not so much, but to me it's always worth asking.

Good luck,

Dave

I am no expert but I agree with all of the listed items to look for. I would add one more item, that is checking the barrel-cylinder alignment with a range rod. Obviously if it dosen't enter the cylinder or rubs and ticks I would not buy the revolver. Too much work and money to get it fixed. A set of range rods are cheap compared to buying a misaligned revolver. Good accuracy and not having increased chamber pressure (safety) are the main goal.

Great advice. I always take to gun show, auction, etc. a bore light, a small screwdriver, and a small magnifying glass. The magnifying glass is especially useful in inspecting finish. It will show issues that may not be visible to naked eye especially previously repaired pitting.

Lots of good advice up above. Well done gents.

One note - a little rotational movement in the cylinder is definitely not uncommon. Every Model 10-7 that I have locks up like a bank vault. Every Model 10-5 that I have has minor rotational movement. They all shoot great.

I learned a lot by doing a youtube search on the topic. Lots of good info out there on inspecting used revolvers & semi autos but you have to be weary of the internet "experts."

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Old Cop
LEO (Ret.)