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  #1  
Old 07-22-2017, 02:24 PM
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Default 1892 Winchester Trapper Takedown .44 Magnum

I've been looking for one of these for about three years. This a Miroku manfuractured Winchester 1892 in .44 Magnum. This particular model is the 16" Trapper Takedown limited run for the 2010 SHOT show. I think only 250 or 500 in each caliber (.357, .44, .45) were made. This is pretty much NIB. Doesn't look to be fired. The two halves seem to be stuck together. Perhaps some full power 300gr loads will knock it loose




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Old 07-22-2017, 02:33 PM
shottist shottist is offline
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1892 Winchester Trapper Takedown .44 Magnum 1892 Winchester Trapper Takedown .44 Magnum 1892 Winchester Trapper Takedown .44 Magnum 1892 Winchester Trapper Takedown .44 Magnum 1892 Winchester Trapper Takedown .44 Magnum  
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That is NEAT! I to have been on the the look out for that exact same piece but have yet to even see one. Please adopt me.
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Old 07-22-2017, 02:58 PM
jhnttrpp jhnttrpp is offline
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1892 Winchester Trapper Takedown .44 Magnum 1892 Winchester Trapper Takedown .44 Magnum 1892 Winchester Trapper Takedown .44 Magnum 1892 Winchester Trapper Takedown .44 Magnum 1892 Winchester Trapper Takedown .44 Magnum  
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I don't understand what " the two halves seem to be stuck together" means
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Old 07-22-2017, 03:33 PM
Ivan the Butcher Ivan the Butcher is offline
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I had a modern 1886 takedown in 45-90. The first few times I took it apart were really tough, That is a good thing.

Put on some gloves with good traction! Flip the lever at the end of the mag tube and pull it foreword, The barrel assembly will rotate about 90 degrees, the pull the assembly foreword. Now you long gun will fit in a briefcase or large lunch box! Reassembly is as difficult. All those tight fitting parts to be "broke in". There is an adjustment "ratchet" that can make tings looser or tighter, but the tighter the better, They do know what they are doing at the factory!

Ivan

You need the leather "Leg of Lamb" carrying case for it now!
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Old 07-22-2017, 03:48 PM
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It's called a Leg of Mutton case, and they once were very popular for takedown rifles and shotguns, usually hard leather. I have had several of them, but have only one today. Back in the old days they were used by hunters who traveled some distance to hunt by train, when cars weren't common. Sort of an early version of a carry-on bag. They are seldom seen today, and those which do show up are in need of a thorough restoration. I have five takedown rifles and three shotguns, and they all fit OK in my L-O-M case. Maybe they are still made, but if so I am unaware of them.
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Old 07-22-2017, 04:19 PM
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It's called a Leg of Mutton case, and they once were very popular for takedown rifles and shotguns, usually hard leather. I have had several of them, but have only one today. Back in the old days they were used by hunters who traveled some distance to hunt by train, when cars weren't common. Sort of an early version of a carry-on bag. They are seldom seen today, and those which do show up are in need of a thorough restoration. I have five takedown rifles and three shotguns, and they all fit OK in my L-O-M case. Maybe they are still made, but if so I am unaware of them.
It appears these folks do:
Leg-O-Mutton Gun Cases
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Old 07-22-2017, 08:40 PM
kaaskop49 kaaskop49 is offline
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What a lovely little gun, did not know such a gem even existed. YMMV, but I think the absolutely LAST thing I would do would be to take it down. I've had such guns in the past (Browning .22 semi-auto, for example), and there was always a certain amount of play when re-assembled after takedown.

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Old 07-22-2017, 08:59 PM
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Back in the old days, there were also available similar carrying cases for take-down guns made of canvas (which they called "Duck"). Of course they didn't provide the same level of protection as the hard leather L-O-M cases did.

The new L-O-M cases look very good, but are a bit more expensive than I would be willing to pay. Now if I only had one of the top-end bespoke British doubles or a Winchester 21, that's probably what I would buy to go with it.
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Old 07-22-2017, 09:11 PM
Bob L Bob L is offline
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I have a Winchester model 55 take down that my father purchased before
I was born He would break it down for storage and travel and it still locks up tight when it is reassembled. He always stored it in a canvas breakdown case which I still have. A superman to travel with a rifle.
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Old 07-22-2017, 10:29 PM
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Originally Posted by kaaskop49 View Post
What a lovely little gun, did not know such a gem even existed. YMMV, but I think the absolutely LAST thing I would do would be to take it down. I've had such guns in the past (Browning .22 semi-auto, for example), and there was always a certain amount of play when re-assembled after takedown.

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That's good to know, thank you. I've never had a takedown before. I have no need to actually break it down, more just a curiosity so it may never happen. It's pretty much a non-issue with a 16" barrel.
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Old 07-23-2017, 12:39 AM
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1892 Winchester Trapper Takedown .44 Magnum 1892 Winchester Trapper Takedown .44 Magnum 1892 Winchester Trapper Takedown .44 Magnum 1892 Winchester Trapper Takedown .44 Magnum 1892 Winchester Trapper Takedown .44 Magnum  
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I have a Savage Model 1895 takedown rifle in .303 Savage. It has a Marble tang sight. It is easy to take down, but the wood fore-end must be removed to do it. It is held onto the barrel with a spring-loaded catch, no screw removal or tools necessary. It has an integral key and keyway which always keeps the barrel and receiver in perfect alignment. It won't shoot 1" groups at 100 yards, but is plenty good enough for deer hunting at twice that distance. When these were sold, Savage included a .410 smoothbore barrel that made the receiver into a single-shot .410 shotgun. Unfortunately I do not have the shotgun barrel, and in fact I have never even seen one, only pictures of them. A very practical approach.
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Old 02-12-2018, 12:17 AM
Malamute Malamute is offline
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So, did you get the takedown 92?

Theres no good reason to completely avoid taking one down. They have an adjustment built in to take the slack out if they do loosen up some, same as Model 12 shotguns do. The couple of 1920s and 30s era model 12s Ive tightened up were so loose they looked scary, but with 1 to 2 notched in the adjustment, they were fine, with several more to go. I doubt 2 lifetimes of shooting and taking them apart would wear out the adjustment range. The rifles adjust differently (screws inside the rear fore end metal, accessed by removing the wood), but Id expect there to be plenty of room to work.

I may have missed it, but the description above of how to take it apart wasnt complete. The lever on the magazine tube is raised, then the magazine tube is unscrewed several turns, the BOLT needs to be opened some so the extractor isnt broken by its cut on the barrel, then the barrel/magazine tube assembly can be turned 90 deg and pulled forward. I would truly love to have a takedown 92 as a travel gun.

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Old 02-12-2018, 12:51 AM
amazingflapjack amazingflapjack is offline
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watch out for that crescent butt plate-they can be painful in a 44 mag.
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Old 02-12-2018, 11:24 AM
30-30remchester 30-30remchester is offline
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I have owned a dozen or two take down Winchesters mainly. There is so sound advise being issued. First advise is to forget that it is a takedown. Seems that for every shot fired they are taken down 5 times. There is so few reasons to need a takedown that I could see a lifetime of use with no taking it apart. These seem to be play toys for adults. I have seen so many good Winchesters and Savage worn out from repeated take down that I avoid them at all cost. Yes Winchester did design an adjustment for both the model 12 and their take down lever guns but they were not made to repeated disassembly. I have seen a few Winchester takedowns that were so loose that the owners drilled a hole through the receiver and put a stove bolt or peened over roll pin through it to tighten the gun.They are not toys. I have adjust maybe 50 Winchester lever guns and had poor results . Though it tightens the tension it needs almost constant adjust there after. Accuracy is quite poor on many take downs. The noted gun writer Whelen ,I don't know how to spell his first name, experimented with solid frame and take down model 94's. He could get 200 yard "deer hunting" accuracy from a solid frame and only 90 yard with a takedown. MALAMUTE is correct that the model 12 can be tightened by adjusting the ratcheting dog but according to all I have read this adjustment is for adjusting headspace and not loosing caused by repeated disassembly. I shot trap with a man that had a model 12 that had been taken down so many times that the threads were worn out. He would rap the threads with Teflon tape to tighten it up. He would shoot 50 rounds and have to re-wrap it with new Teflon tape. And for no reason other than its previous owner thought it was cool to take it apart.

Last edited by 30-30remchester; 02-12-2018 at 02:30 PM. Reason: Additional comments
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Old 02-12-2018, 06:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Malamute View Post
So, did you get the takedown 92?

Theres no good reason to completely avoid taking one down. They have an adjustment built in to take the slack out if they do loosen up some, same as Model 12 shotguns do. The couple of 1920s and 30s era model 12s Ive tightened up were so loose they looked scary, but with 1 to 2 notched in the adjustment, they were fine, with several more to go. I doubt 2 lifetimes of shooting and taking them apart would wear out the adjustment range. The rifles adjust differently (screws inside the rear fore end metal, accessed by removing the wood), but Id expect there to be plenty of room to work.

I may have missed it, but the description above of how to take it apart wasnt complete. The lever on the magazine tube is raised, then the magazine tube is unscrewed several turns, the BOLT needs to be opened some so the extractor isnt broken by its cut on the barrel, then the barrel/magazine tube assembly can be turned 90 deg and pulled forward. I would truly love to have a takedown 92 as a travel gun.
I have not. In fact, the rifle has seen exactly four rounds since this post Spare time is not in my immediate future either.
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Old 02-12-2018, 07:11 PM
BAM-BAM BAM-BAM is offline
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For a takedown check out "Skinner Sights" they make a nice barrel mounted peep sight.... I've got one on my .357 Trapper ( not a take down).
Barrel mounts avoid the losing zero when you take down and reassemble. Also put one on my 10/22 Takedown..........................

30-30 makes some good points...... the new Ruger takedown 10/22 is nice.... but it's takedown feature is for "long term" storage in a truck, boat or plane...... or to allow concealed carry in your "Get home bag" IMO...... not for every trip to and from the range.

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Old 03-24-2018, 09:57 PM
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Winchester is making this gun again with a case colored receiver, if anyone is interested. MSRP is in the $1700 neighborhood. I doubt they will achieve that at auction.

Model 1892 Deluxe Trapper Takedown Case Hardened
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Old 03-24-2018, 11:01 PM
2152hq 2152hq is offline
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The Winchester lever actions don't use the same screw adjustable bushing around the bbl shank to take up wear in the TD joint like the Winchester 97.12.and 42 do.

The rifles all use 3 set screws threaded into the front face (inside the wood) of the bbl extension.
If the TD joint is loose and they often are even with the magazine tube tightened up as much as possible, the set screws are used to rather crudely take up the looseness in the joint.

Those screws are accessed by removing the forend wood.
Then they are carefully and slowly tightened which pushes/dimples out the back side of the bbl extension that mates with the front of the frame. That makes for a tighter interference fit when assembled,,and that's your adjustment for a loose TD.

It doesn't afford too much range nor much bearing surface. So it wears quickly when it is adjusted and runs out of adjustment soon after you start using it if TD is a favorite past time.

Many people just kept tightening and over tightening the magazine tube thinking that was the key to keeping things tight. But the tube mearly threads into the frame thru the bbl extension. It doesn't draw the assemblys together.

When you start using the, it will leave a noticable gap betw the bbl extension and the frame of the rifle as you are pushing the two components apart

To avoid using the 3 set screws, the bbl threads can be swaged forward to tighten the fit. A simple narrow flat faced punch working the entire thread from start to finish toward the muzzle increases the draw and tightens the assembly as it's cranked together it's 90*'s.
This will make for a tight assembly with the ability to still TD the rifle if needed. BUT, continued TD will loosen the joint once again. Better to assemble and leave it. Admire it as a TD and use it as a non-TD unless you want to get into other more costly methods to repair that don't make a mess of things.

I don't know if the repops use the orig Winchester setscrew type adj system or not. Maybe they do use a style like the M12 ect. That'd be great.
FWIW, that M12/42/97 adj is for TD looseness. Headspace is governed by the 'chamber ring' in the frame. A removeable spacer just inside the frame in front of the bolt held with 2 small screws. Approx 1/4 thick it's considered part of the chamber length , the bbl breech adj bushing sits against that to make a tight TD. When it gets loose, the bushing is backed out a notch or 2 to make contact again.

The bushing & the chamber ring are doing the same job as those set screws against the frame in the lever action TD system,,just a little more elegantly!
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Old 03-24-2018, 11:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhnttrpp View Post
I don't understand what " the two halves seem to be stuck together" means
...I missed that on first reading too...

...Takedown is the keyword...it breaks down into two halves...
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Old 03-25-2018, 05:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2152hq View Post
The Winchester lever actions don't use the same screw adjustable bushing around the bbl shank to take up wear in the TD joint like the Winchester 97.12.and 42 do.

The rifles all use 3 set screws threaded into the front face (inside the wood) of the bbl extension.
If the TD joint is loose and they often are even with the magazine tube tightened up as much as possible, the set screws are used to rather crudely take up the looseness in the joint.

Those screws are accessed by removing the forend wood.
Then they are carefully and slowly tightened which pushes/dimples out the back side of the bbl extension that mates with the front of the frame. That makes for a tighter interference fit when assembled,,and that's your adjustment for a loose TD.

It doesn't afford too much range nor much bearing surface. So it wears quickly when it is adjusted and runs out of adjustment soon after you start using it if TD is a favorite past time.

Many people just kept tightening and over tightening the magazine tube thinking that was the key to keeping things tight. But the tube mearly threads into the frame thru the bbl extension. It doesn't draw the assemblys together.

When you start using the, it will leave a noticable gap betw the bbl extension and the frame of the rifle as you are pushing the two components apart

To avoid using the 3 set screws, the bbl threads can be swaged forward to tighten the fit. A simple narrow flat faced punch working the entire thread from start to finish toward the muzzle increases the draw and tightens the assembly as it's cranked together it's 90*'s.
This will make for a tight assembly with the ability to still TD the rifle if needed. BUT, continued TD will loosen the joint once again. Better to assemble and leave it. Admire it as a TD and use it as a non-TD unless you want to get into other more costly methods to repair that don't make a mess of things.

I don't know if the repops use the orig Winchester setscrew type adj system or not. Maybe they do use a style like the M12 ect. That'd be great.
FWIW, that M12/42/97 adj is for TD looseness. Headspace is governed by the 'chamber ring' in the frame. A removeable spacer just inside the frame in front of the bolt held with 2 small screws. Approx 1/4 thick it's considered part of the chamber length , the bbl breech adj bushing sits against that to make a tight TD. When it gets loose, the bushing is backed out a notch or 2 to make contact again.

The bushing & the chamber ring are doing the same job as those set screws against the frame in the lever action TD system,,just a little more elegantly!
Turning the adjustment screws out to take up the play, and thus move the barrel assembly forward from the frame creating the gap you speak of, will increase head spacing, no?
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Old 03-25-2018, 11:09 PM
2152hq 2152hq is offline
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It does actually increase headspace as you are pushing the bbl assembly forward (or the frame w/bolt backward,,however you want to look at it) when you make the adjustment. It can be very slight,,but it is there.
Add to the fact that many lever actions suffer from out of spec or at the end of the line headspace all ready.

Plus the TD system doesn't push/pull in a straight line with the bore. The screws are positioned lower in the bbl extension. The effect is to push the bbl 'muzzle up' as well as forward to tighten the threads. It puts the chamber slightly off center line with the breech face.
That outside gap betw the bbl extension and the frame can be widest at the bottom and taper going up betw the parts indicating some really badly worn TD threads sometimes.
The last couple of situation not really conducive to pin point accuracy
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Old 07-13-2019, 10:26 PM
Marloe Marloe is offline
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I have one in 44 magnum. You can’t harm these new takedowns by taking them apart and putting them back together “JF you do it properly. Stows in a backpack broken-down. Flip out the magazine tube lever and .....Do like in the link lol.
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