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Old 08-02-2017, 06:54 PM
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Default Folding Knife Sharpening

I recently purchased the knife and really like it. I know how to sharpen a pocket and hunting knife from way back when. This knife was pretty sharp when I received it, but the edge bevel is something I have never had to deal with on a regular pocket knife.

What do you guys and gals use to sharpen them? I have the standard hard Arkansas stone and several India stones.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Have a blessed day,

Leon
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Old 08-02-2017, 07:05 PM
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I use the Gatco Co. sharpening system it makes keeping the angle the same every time a breeze. Get he diamond stones they are great.
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Old 08-02-2017, 07:16 PM
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I use the Spyderco Sharpmaker. It comes with coarse and fine stones, but I also have a set of ultra-fine stones. I also use a stropping block.
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Old 08-02-2017, 07:25 PM
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Congrats on your new Buck Vantage. I too you a Spyderco Sharpmaker for everything from daily touch up to moderate reprofiling.
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Old 08-02-2017, 07:26 PM
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I prefer sharpening on old fashioned rectangular stones of various coarseness. If I do not like the manufacture's or previous owners' bevel then I go back to a coarse enough stone to efficiently make a new bevel. I find it easiest to resharpen on a hard Arkansas stone if I'm matching a bevel that I created rather than trying to angle the strokes to match a bevel made on a machine.
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Old 08-02-2017, 07:26 PM
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Lansky Sharpening System works VERY well for me....or send it to Buck and they will re-edge to factory edge for either 5 or 7 dollars.

Randy
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Old 08-02-2017, 07:56 PM
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Crock sticks and a strop for touch up.Stones if it needs a little more.
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Old 08-02-2017, 08:36 PM
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The Spyerdco is pretty much fool proof and does a good job.
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Old 08-02-2017, 08:54 PM
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I use a soft Arkansas stone if it's really dull, then a hard Arkansas stone, and finish with ceramic sticks.
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Old 08-02-2017, 09:01 PM
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I don't generally use stones unless the edge really needs help.
For general sharpening, I use a diamond impregnated sharpening rod. Sometimes I'll strop it afterwards if I want a really fine edge.
Keeps my daily carry pocket knife sharp enough to shave with:
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Old 08-02-2017, 11:30 PM
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Carborundum stones (whetstones) in various coarseness, depending on the purpose of the knife, with water or a light oil, for me. Different tasks require a different tooth and different angles on the edge for max effectiveness, e.g., choppers should have a more acutely angled edge (think of a small splitting maul) of maybe 10-12 degrees. With slicers and fillet knives I put on about 7 degrees, the same for pocket knives, folding hunters and fixed blade hunters.

I've tried steels, diamond and lots of gadgets owned by other people, just to check out the latest "next best thing". Some work fairly well and other just mangle an edge, but they never have matched the Old School method, at least for me. I always go back to the stones.

SNUBBY:

If I shaved a swatch of arm hair to test sharpness every time I touched up a blade, my arms would look kinda funny all bar' nekkid!
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Old 08-03-2017, 01:42 AM
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Dry the edge off and use a black sharpy to coat the bevel on the edge. Swipe the stone a coupla times and see where the black is removed.
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Old 08-03-2017, 04:53 AM
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I don't mark the blade to see where it's being affected by a stone. I just look at the metal to see where it's shiny from just being contacted by the stones I use or the diamond rod I use.

Quote:
If I do not like the manufacture's or previous owners' bevel then I go back to a coarse enough stone to efficiently make a new bevel
I've had a hard time with odd angle knives in the past as far as keeping them sharp goes. I also pretty much make a new bevel that I can work with. Some knives can take that. Others can't. My Buck knives have always done well under that procedure.

I have a EDC that is made from S30V steel. That stuff is hard to make sharp and the bevel that came with it was just impossible. I tried so many different methods it wasn't funny and it didn't have as rounded bevel like some knives. It had two angles. That was enough to make it hard as heck to get an edge. I finally just use a diamond rod to put my own bevel on it and that gave it a good edge. It keeps that edge a very long time too because it's just as hard to make it not sharp as it was to make it sharp.

I have several knives and tools I've put my own bevel on and made them sharper. I have a machete that was dull as a 2" X 4" but I made it sharp as a razor blade by ignoring the rounded bevel it had. It's more like a small sword now. It's crazy sharp. And I have a briar axe that is so sharp I won't pick it up. That thing could slice you wide open just getting it down off the hanger it's on.
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Old 08-03-2017, 08:28 AM
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I love a really sharp knife blade, but unless I can sharpen a blade on a set of crock sticks, I'm out of luck. That changed when I found this knife sharpener:

Work Sharp Guided Field Sharpener : Cabela's

I can get a knife edge shaving sharp pretty quick using this sharpener. I keep one in my blades bag and it gets used a lot come deer season.

Good luck,

Dave
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Old 08-03-2017, 09:40 AM
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Sharpmaker all the way. If it is a kitchen knife I go here
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Old 08-03-2017, 01:25 PM
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I use stones and a sharpening steel for a quick touch up.

I sharpen them just like a pocket and hunting knife...no difference.
My brother , a butcher , uses a steel and it works well. Use your stones to get the edge angle you prefer and after that it's an easy job.
I usually have to use the soft stone then the hard about three or four times before getting the angle I like fully established . I don't use any system, jigs or fixtures to sharpen....just the hands and do not try and keep the factory bevel , I like a little shallower bevel for maximum sharpness.
Gary

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Old 08-03-2017, 03:03 PM
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The main thing is to get the angle correct for whatever stone or method you decide to use.
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Old 08-03-2017, 04:51 PM
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I spent a few more minutes with the knife and some of my finishing stones earlier today and it is shaving sharp now. Thanks for all the input. Looks like all I might need is leather to touch it up.

Have a blessed day,

Leon
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Old 08-04-2017, 05:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by growr View Post
Lansky Sharpening System works VERY well for me....or send it to Buck and they will re-edge to factory edge for either 5 or 7 dollars.

Randy
^^^ Agreed... i grew up using a set of stones, but the Lansky Blade Medic pocket sharpener is so fast and easy, it feels like I'm cheating. I keep one in my pocket knife drawer, one in my tool chest and one in the kitchen.
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Old 08-05-2017, 12:30 AM
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After watching what a buddy did to a nice folder with one of the diamond impregnated stones told him bring it over and I'll see what I can do. That blade had more scratches than a dog with fleas. I have a couple abrasive rubbing blocks that sears used to sell. Taped the knife edge and did manage to polish out all but the most deeper scratches. Started out with a coarse carborundum stone to clean up and redefine the cutting edge, than a Norton india stone. Then progressed to a soft wa****a, hard arkansaw then to a black hard arkansaw all with honing oil. When done had a nice defined bevel on both sides and literally shave the hair off your arm. My wife has an amazing ability to take a knife with a good cutting edge and somehow manages to destroy it. She will buy large pork loins and cut them up to make chops and roasts and even with a cutting board destroys the edge. Same for larger cuts of beef. Just shake my head and start sharpening. Frank
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Old 08-05-2017, 01:13 AM
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Default I like the old way beat

I have tried a lot of things over the years but I always go back to the stones. The set in the picture is what I used when the edge need a lot of help. Normally I go from the soft to the hard and finish on a strop.
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Old 08-05-2017, 01:50 AM
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Quote:
After watching what a buddy did to a nice folder with one of the diamond impregnated stones told him bring it over and I'll see what I can do. That blade had more scratches than a dog with fleas.
I would not use anything with diamonds involved unless it was super hard steel like S30V or S40V. I'm not even sure if it would work at all on S40V. That stuff is incredibly hard. I used a diamond rod to cut the bevel I wanted on a S30V knife I have. There was just no getting it sharp with stones until I did that. Now that I have the blade shaped the way i want I can just use regular stones to keep it sharp. I didn't scratch up my knife either. It's way too hard to get scratched easily. And I was careful to do it right. Now it stays sharp for a month at a time and I use it daily.

I would not suggest someone just in and use a diamond stone or rod on any stainless steel or carbon steel blades. It would eat them up like crazy. I only used my diamond rod once and that was to shape the one knife that just would not get sharp the old fashioned way.

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Old 08-06-2017, 10:51 AM
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I have a course carbide stone, a large diamond hone, a ceramic rod, a sharpening steel, and a gadget. The steel sees the most use. I've been thinking about buying a Sharpmaker, but as I age and my tremor gets worse it's easier for me to send my Spyderco knives back to the factory for sharpening.
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Old 08-07-2017, 12:47 PM
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Some good suggestions here for the novice sharpener. Bought the Lansky Blade Medic myself which works well on my Sog folder but not so much on that Gerber Prodigy fixed blade which I read may have a double bevel. May be a better choice out there as suggested above such as stones.
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Old 08-07-2017, 02:03 PM
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EZE-Lap diamond hone. I have a Smith's guided system and a variety of stones, but the EZE-LAP is easy to carry. The flat plastic handle can be cut down to fit in a wallet.



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Old 08-07-2017, 03:37 PM
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I use this. Works as advertised.

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Old 08-07-2017, 04:01 PM
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Thanks for added replies. Looking for easy to use and sort of idiot proof for a novice if there is such a thing.
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Old 08-07-2017, 05:09 PM
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Working with sharp instruments there's nothing completely idiot proof... . But there are a ton of vids on the WorkSharp to watch. Press trigger... drag knife. Pretty much it.

This guy is a rep for the company but isn't full of hype. His first words of wisdom is to read the instruction book.


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Old 08-07-2017, 05:38 PM
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I find that what works with one knife won't always work with other knives. I have several choices when it comes to sharpening. IMO nothing replaces trial and error to see what works with a particular knife or actually a type of steel. What works with steel with lots of carbon doesn't always work with different types of stainless and one type of stainless isn't always the same as another type. I've tried lots of systems that were supposed to be guaranteed but sometimes they worked and sometimes they didn't. So I use trial and error until I find what works best for any particular knife or blade of any kind.

Some things work more often than others. A good stone will work with lots of knives if you know how to use it. It takes practice and lots of it. And you'll probably ruin a few knives until you get it right. I did. But some I thought were ruined were fixed by systems I got later. Now I have good knives I thought were made into letter openers that are now good knives again.

I have several boxes of knives around the house where I've tried different things to find one that worked. That's how I learned to make a knife sharp.
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Old 08-07-2017, 05:56 PM
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Just sharpened up some Buck knives. I use a Spydeco Sharpening System. They're razor sharp again.
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Old 08-11-2017, 11:40 PM
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I bought me a new Smith 6" Natural Arkansas Sharpening Stone. I have an old Arkansas stone i've had since 1978,it's still good.I don't ever know why I bought the new stone. lol
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