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Old 10-03-2017, 09:40 PM
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I was surprised that people mentioned Parkers...... I was surprised that people mentioned Parkers...... I was surprised that people mentioned Parkers...... I was surprised that people mentioned Parkers...... I was surprised that people mentioned Parkers......  
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Default I was surprised that people mentioned Parkers......

I have some guns from a family member that I'm trying to price. One is a beautiful Parker shotgun 12 ga. side by side. My eyes aren't too good and I can see some markings but not others. Does the shotgun have to be taken apart to see all the numbers? If so, I see a bolt that serves as a hinge and I suppose all I need to do to get it apart is take the bolt out. This is the first time I've messed with a side by side. I have fair experience with semis and pumps.
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Last edited by rwsmith; 10-03-2017 at 09:42 PM.
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Old 10-03-2017, 09:43 PM
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I was surprised that people mentioned Parkers...... I was surprised that people mentioned Parkers...... I was surprised that people mentioned Parkers...... I was surprised that people mentioned Parkers...... I was surprised that people mentioned Parkers......  
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It should be on the bottom tang



If you take the forearm off you can take the barrels off and look at the numbers on the inside of the receiver



There might be a serial number on the barrel flats on the bottom of the barrel near the receiver



I have the catalog book of Parker serial numbers and can look it up if you get the number
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Old 10-04-2017, 04:35 AM
Ivan the Butcher Ivan the Butcher is offline
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I was surprised that people mentioned Parkers...... I was surprised that people mentioned Parkers...... I was surprised that people mentioned Parkers...... I was surprised that people mentioned Parkers...... I was surprised that people mentioned Parkers......  
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DO NOT REMOVE THE HINGE/PIVOT PIN!!! The forend either has a release lever or a spring loaded catch. With either, downward pressure at the front of the forend will get the piece off, the open the action (support the barrels or the will drop to the floor!) and the barrels will hinge forward, note how they "hook" onto the pin so you can reassemble it later.

The SN is usually on the receiver side or tang, on the bottom flats of the barrels and the inside "iron" of the forend. The flats also usually contain info on the type of powder (black or smokeless) usually by the type of proof mark, and many guns have a indication of the chokes (sometimes in words, some times in fractions 0/4 is cylinder 2/4 is some type of modified and 4/4 is full, or by just some marks- Browning used to use * (the more *, the less choke! *= full, ***= cylinder bore)

Chamber length is important on older shotguns, and is usually marked on the outside top of the barrel or on the flats. 2 1/2", 2 9/16", & 2 5/8" are hard to find ammo for these days. On foreign guns, 70mm is considered equal to 2 3/4" and is very common. When selling if you don't know the length it is OK to say you "Don't Know". Just don't guess or assume.

The address on the barrels or on the center rib is of importance to most collectors, include all punctuation, street numbers, and be sure any abbreviations are correctly copied.

Ivan
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Old 10-04-2017, 08:07 AM
Camster Camster is offline
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Again,don't touch that hinge pin! That truly would be "messing" with it.
Keep tools away from the thing.

Last edited by Camster; 10-04-2017 at 08:10 AM.
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Old 10-04-2017, 08:27 AM
2152hq 2152hq is offline
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"...DO NOT REMOVE THE HINGE/PIVOT PIN!!!..."

Good advise to start with!
Not needed for anything you need to do or see,,,and they are stubborn to get out anyway.

Make sure it is unloaded..then close the bbls back up.

Take the forend off.
Either a simple pull/snap off forend on the Trojan grade (lowest grade),,or the forend will have a pull down lever release latch (V grade and up). Pull the latch to pivot it outward and hold it there as you remove/pull the forend from the bbls.

Remove the bbls from the action.
Simply push the top lever over to open the action and allow the bbls to tip downward. Hang on to them!.
They will continue to pivot passed the point where the forend would have stopped their movement if it had still been in place.
Rotate the bbls off of the hinge pin and off of the frame.
*If the bbls hang up and won't rotate completely off the frame w/the forend off (happens once in a while on an older Parker that's been in storage,ect),,try dry firing one or both of the bbls and try again. That usually releases the cocking slide and hook from the bbls and allows them to unlatch.

That is as far as you normally need to go to clean the shotgun or in this case inspect any factory markings.
** Dry firing the Parker while in this T/D condition,,no worrys,,it will reassemble with no problems and recock the hammer(s) when reopened and closed the first time again**.

The action flats, inside the forend iron, and bbl flat (or the side of the bbl lug depending on the era of mfg) will all be ser#'d. They should match is it as it left the factory.
There are some internal parts that are numbered also, but you don't want to get in to complete disassembly of the gun at this point.
One other ser# you may be able to see,,at least the last few digits of,,it the trigger plate#.
It's stamped on the back side of it but you can generally see the partial number by looking down into the frame cut on the action flats.
The trigger guard tang will have the ser# hand engraved on it also. The other ser# markings are stamped.

The action flat will also have the Grade by letter (V,P,C,D,AA ect) over the ser# stamping. The grade letter may also have 'H' along with it (hammerless),,I assume that is the type you have though PArker made hammer guns also.
Under the ser# may be a single digit number . That corresponds to the Grade above. Sometimes you find both marked.
(2 is a G Grade,,ect)

On the bbl flats or left side of the bbl lug will be the ser#.

The flats will have a number indicating the weight in pounds & oz of the bbls before(?) being final struck/polished during mfg. Also the initials of the bbl-smith that did the work.
On top of the rear of the bbl lug is the frame size marking. They had multiple frame sizes for the different gauges and they overlaped to give light weight and heavy weight guns as well as standard frame guns of the same gauge.
The common 12ga frame is the #2 frame.

Generally no choke markings or chamber length marks on Parkers.
Those made by Remington after they acquired the co. sometimes have a oval shaped choke bored stamping on each flat.
Parker (Meriden Ct mfg) guns will generally have 'Parker Bros' on each side of the frame,,hand engraved. Even the Trojan and the V grade. The higher grades also have it and sometimes it's fancier, lettering more ornate and worked in to the engraving patterns seen on those grades.
Remington produced guns will generally have just the word 'Parker' and that will be on the bottom of the frame forward of the trigger plate. Nothing on the sides.

Remington mfg guns have no top rib markings as a rule.
Meriden Ct made guns have top rib markings and several different versions through the years. Early ones can be hand engraved as well as the ones on the vent rib guns later.
The main thing is that the rib marking indicated the steel type used in that grade,,different steel types for different grades of Parker produced including Damascus, Vulcan (the common V Grade), Acme.

Remington made guns or those earlier PArkers returned to Remington later on for repair when they were still doing that may show Remington bbl code/repair code markings like any other Remington product of the time.
Repair codes will have a '3'prefix.

Any unmessed with PArker of any era is a nice find. So many are not. They are truly collectible but in the same boat as early Colt SAA's So much to know about them, so many tiny points that collectors make and break the gun over,,so many that have been upgraded and further 'helped' to make them more valuable.
Aside from all the collector talk that can make your eye balls spin around, the $$ side of it,,they are just a fine American made shotgun and will do anything you need them to do in the field.

There is a Parker Gun Collectors forum. The original factory records do exist for most of the production. Plenty of info out there about the guns and the history.
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