I ran across a Remington Number 4 Rolling Block in .32 rimfire today. The gun is in excellent shape, except for one thing, when the hammer is cocked all the way back, the loading gate won't open. There is just enough of a hang up to keep it from opening. If you thumb the hammer back ever so slightly past full cock, the loading gate will open. The loading gate opens very smoothly then, nothing sticking. The hammer comes back and goes down very nicely, the action is excellent. It's just that one thing. I checked, all of the action screws are tight. The shop happens to have two other Remington #4's, also in .32 rimfire and the loading gate opens with ease. I like this gun, and I think it MIGHT be an easy fix, but I don't know what it would be that I was fixing. Anyone else ever run into this?



Here's the hammer back, gate closed. The loading gate won't open.



If you thumb the hammer back, the gate opens fine. It doesn't even need to be pulled back this far.

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Vaya con Dios

The tip of the trigger (sear edge) might be worn or has possibly been altered (attempt to better the trigger pull).
When this happens the engagement rotation point of the hammer is then altered to be a bit forward of where it needs to be at full cock.
The hammer is then underneath the breachblock at full cock instead of just clearing it.

Sometimes the sear notch in the hammer itself has also been the benificiary of a trigger job or wear and enough material removed to do the same thing to the timing,,or both parts together are at fault.

Building up the surfaces is what's usually done and recut the sear and/or sear notch.
Not a big job, just takes some patience. You can't see the parts when assembled obviously to check angles and engagement. But laying them on the outside flat side of the frame and pinning them down gives a very good idea and starting point for the refit work.

TIG weld is where most now jump to when jobs like this come up. But I always do them by splicing in a new piece of steel and hard soldering that into place.
Sometimes I braze it if I'm going to C/harden the part. Braze will hold thru Casehardening,,hard solder will not.

Another thing to look for is a bent or extremely worn trigger pivot screw.
That can allow the trigger to push forward a few .000 at times and block the breech at full cock under main spring pressure.
I really doubt it from the looks of the rifle, but check it over when it's apart anyway.

...I will add that some would just cut away the front edge of the hammer base to allow the breach block to roll back when at full cock,,,and probably w/a Dremel,,So you can probably figure what level of gunsmithing expertise I place that rework idea in.

FWIW, There's a very fragile 3 leaf flat spring inside these #4 rifles. IIRC they they snap breech closed/open,, work the ejector,, and power the trigger.,,something like that!
Careful with it on dis assembly and reassembly. They are odd shaped and very hard to find ($$) if broken.

It doesn't make much difference how or if the repair is done, since there is no ammunition available to shoot it.

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Tom
1560

Very nice. Can't believe the build and workmanship on these vintage arms.

And back then, it was nothing special. Just your run of the mill average rifle.

Yes, times have changed.

I have a solid frame .32 rimfire roller. I've rechambered it to .32 S&W Long. Just haven't gotten around to making a center fire firing pin yet.

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John 3:16
WAR EAGLE!

Dixie Gun Works sells brass casings that allow you to use a .22 blank like a primer, and you fill it with black powder and you seat a .310 roundball in the case. It's not ideal, but it sounds like fun.

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Vaya con Dios

.32 rimfire ammo is out there..I bought a box the other day. It's very expensive at $3/round..but I don't "waste" it like I do .22 rimfire..

[QUOTE=Skeetr57;139814317]It doesn't make much difference how or if the repair is done, since there is no ammunition available to shoot it.[/QUOTE

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-Doesn't a Canadian ammo company (Canuck?) load .32 RF ? ]

These is a company Fiocchi(?) that will on occasion make a run of 32 Rimfire. you might want to check with them. BTW: A beautiful rifle!

Jim

Well, I decided to take a chance on this gun. The rifle is $275, so I traded a .22 single shot I don't use for it, I have enough others that it isn't a biggie, and I think I will take it apart, clean it and see what I can do with it. Dixie Gun Works has kits where they sell brass that you can get a .22 blank to act as a primer for it, load it with black powder and then use a .310 round ball. So it can be shot, just a little differently.

Here are some more pics, the gun is far from mint, but it's in very good shape, it's an earlier take down, so pre-1924 according to the serial numbers. I will be picking it up Friday when I pay off the rest of the money on it.

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Vaya con Dios

Nice acquisition! Good price too IMO.

The earlier TD w/the swing lever,,don't get TD happy and they stay tight.
The bbl shank is short so there isn't a whole lot of support right there for the notched TD shank.
Over use can wear the engagement surfaces fast and you are at the end of the take up pretty quickly.
The TD lever/screw shank is a left hand thread so making a new one isn't easy.
I've seen many of these where the bbl has been soft soldered into the frame, TD lever in place, most likely as a fix for a loose TD.
It doesn't 'show', it fixes the problem, it just removes the take-down feature which in this day and age is more novelty than useful anyway.

Remington switched to a thumbscrew type TD feature to replace the swing lever on the later ones. More secure and easier to replace/upgrade.

Have fun!.. good candidate for a centerfire 32S&W conversion. Or if the bore is bad to a 22rf liner & RF firing pin conv.
A 32cal bore wouldn't take much to drill out to take a standard 22 liner.

My best friend converter a Flaubert 32 RF to 32 S&W Long by altering the firing pin on the hammer. I'm sure someone made parts for a Rolling Block conversion to center fire.

Ivan

I have acquired a Remington 32 rimfire rolling block rifle. I had it completely restored keeping original look only problem was it needed at firing pin. Unfortunately the guy working on it passed away befor he could make a firing pin. I’m just wondering if snymone has any information on where to find one or make one. Thank you

go to
Remington Rolling Block Parts - Rolling Block Parts
He has all the parts I needed for my Rollers and a good guy to deal with

Model 52