LCR Question, does this look right?

TomkinsSP · #1 01-30-2018, 12:44 AM

A friend was shooting her LCR here tonight, and methinks she has a screw loose (I know I do, but that's a subject for a different thread

). She is my friend so obviously both her and her LCR have a screw loose.

First thumbnail is problem, oops did I say that?
Second is my suggested solution, FWIW.
Third is screw. Seems evident that it is loose, but how far should I turn it with tiny screwdriver and is blue loctite called for.

Serious and playful responses are appriciated.

Cal44 · #2 01-30-2018, 12:52 AM

I've had trouble with the same screw loosening up.

I just check it each time I go to the range. Tighten it all the way down.

You have to be careful so as not to strip the tiny screw.

Not sure what that screw does.

Cal44 · #3 01-30-2018, 02:03 AM

A little more info now that I'm back to a computer with a real keyboard.

When I first got my LCR 357, the cylinder was hard to open. I didn't see anywhere it was binding, but it took a considerable push to open it.

I posted on one of the Ruger forums about the problem, and someone told me to check that screw and tighten it if it was loose.

It was loose, and I tightened it a couple full turns, and the cylinder became much easier to open. So now I just check it and keep it tight.

Eventually I got an LCR 9mm and it had that same screw loose sometimes. I kept it tight, but there was never a problem with cylinder binding.

More recently I got an LCR 327, and the screw has never loosened.

I really don't know how to adjust it, but losing it can't be right.

The screw has something to do with the cylinder release, but I still do't know what.

BTW, the LCR 357 had a flat slot screw and the others had tiny allen screws.

TomkinsSP · #4 01-30-2018, 09:03 AM

Thanks Cal44, (This ones a .22lr, slotted head.) Best I could guess from the Numrich diagram, is that its a long pin that holds the cylinder release to the frame and its only threaded at the slotted end. I didn't think it wise to loosen it, but I didn't figure it looked like that when it left the factory. I will ask her if it ever binds, that did not occur to me.

2152hq · #5 01-30-2018, 10:21 AM

The cylinder release pivots on that screw. Keeping it tight makes the release work easier. Once it backs out far enough, the release can start to cant and bind.
The screw is threaded on the slotted/allen head end only. The other end is smooth where the thumb piece pivots on it as TomkinsSP pointed out..

If you remove the screw all the way, you can then take the thumb piece and it's small spring and plunger out of the frame,,part of the disassembly procedure. Not necessary unless you need to take the gun down for some reason.

I'd back it out a bit to expose some of the threads,,clean that area with alcohol. Then apply a dot of fingernail polish (should be readily available in this instance) to the threads and wind it back in again.
Let it dry and see if that doesn't secure the little screw in place during use.
If it continues to loosen,,then I'd go one step up and use Purple Locktite. That can still be un-done with simple tools but holds very well against vibration.

TomkinsSP · #6 01-30-2018, 04:22 PM

Thanks, looks better now.

FWIW the HiViz sights say on package they shoot low on .22lr, is repeated on Bill's website. Untrue. Shoot to POI both .357 and .22.

CAJUNLAWYER · #7 02-01-2018, 10:03 AM

Screw it all the way in, then cover the screw head with JB weld. Problem solved-that sucker ain't gonna back out ever again.
I had a bad experience with one of those LCR's binding up and freezing out of the box. Ruger fixed it but what with the airweight J frames actually being lighter and made with a century old PROVEN lockwork, I just can't seem to warm up to these little revolvers. (disclaimer-my Smiths are pre-you know-but I would even buy a lock one over the plastic revolvers)

TomkinsSP · #8 02-01-2018, 03:46 PM

I used a bit of purple Loktite, just in case she ever needs to remove the screw.

Dad used to say it was cheaper to pay a bit more for quality.

I have a couple I frames, a couple improved I frames, lots of K frames, and even more J frames. What I don't have, ever, is problems with the aforementioned. Coincidence?

I love JB Weld, used it to attach manifold studs to a cylinder head once (cleaned out the stripped holes and filled with JB Weld and new studs), it worked.

CAJUNLAWYER · #9 02-02-2018, 09:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TomkinsSP

I used a bit of purple Loktite, just in case she ever needs to remove the screw.

Dad used to say it was cheaper to pay a bit more for quality.

I have a couple I frames, a couple improved I frames, lots of K frames, and even more J frames. What I don't have, ever, is problems with the aforementioned. Coincidence?

I love JB Weld, used it to attach manifold studs to a cylinder head once (cleaned out the stripped holes and filled with JB Weld and new studs), it worked.

JB Weld is da bomb! I put a chimenia back together with it and it is still holding after 10 years