Need advice. I purchased a used Remington 572 (1977 model) recently. It had some lead build-up in barrel and breech area so I had to get somewhat aggressive with solvent (Hoppes #9 and Hoppes Elite) to clean it out. Didn't notice until finished that some solvent had run down and set on receiver (it is made of anodized aluminum and discolored it in places (see pictures). Needless to say I was quite upset! It appears worse in pictures and is not noticeable from a distance but I would like to touch up finish as the receiver had no marks on it when I purchased the rifle.

Birchwood Casey makes a refinish product for black anodized aluminum for touch ups or refinish. (Regular blueing products don't work on aluminum.)

Has anyone used this product and if so does it work. Any other ideas on how to deal with this or should I just leave it alone and chalk it up to experience. Thanks!

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Aluminum Black - yeah (they also make Brass Black).

I used Aluminum Black, years back, to cover dings on my Bianchi B-light (that oughta show how long ago). It did a good job.

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I always take precautions

Believe it or not, sometimes a Black Sharpie touches up Anodized Aluminum very well. Unfortunately it might be taken off by cleaning solvents - but easy enough to re-apply. Cheap and fast enough to at least try.

I bought a Colt Cobra used 20 some years ago, the aluminum was worn white! I used the Birchwood Casey touch up pen. It looked like I colored it with a Magic-Marker That would have cost much less! Over time with wear and tear, it still looks like dog barf!

Ivan

I have tried the BC Aluminum Black several times with pretty dismal results. Never found a good solution besides sending it out to an anodizing shop.

I think you'll find that the rec'vr on those is painted as originally mfg'd by Remington. They are aluminum rec'vrs, but they painted them.

The only 572's that had their aluminum recv;rs anodized were the Liteweight models. Those are the rifles that were available in 'colors'.
'Teal blue, "Crow Wing' black and 'Buck Skin' tan. I thought they sold one in a red color but I can't find any mention of it.
These lightweights also had an aluminum bbl that was anodized, a steel rifled liner was inserted to make them safe to shoot.
Aluminum butt plate.
A lightweight non-walnut wood was used for the stocks.
The completed L/W rifles weigh just an oz or two over 4#'s

The black spray paint finish on the 572 FieldMaster scratches, wears easily. Often you find them worn down to the bright aluminum surface in most areas on the gun.
A few are even taken the rest of the way down by their owners and brightly polished back up. They look like a nickel plated version of the rifle, but Remington never offered on in Nickel that I know of.
Some parts on the lightweights were nickelplated at times like the mag tubes though.

So don't despair.. Steel wool the area(s) smooth,,mask the rifle off and touch the rec'vr up with rattle can of your best HiTemp Black.

It'll look better than just like new!

You might consider Cerakote for the receiver. The matte black would pretty much duplicate the factory finish and would be a lot more durable. Nice looking rifle.

If it is indeed "paint" and not anodized. Brownells aluma hyde is fantastic epoxy pint. You have to let it cure before rough use.

BROWNELLS ALUMA-HYDE(R) II | Brownells

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Still Running Against the Wind

There is also the Teflon spray and bake finishes. They are black. I have done many AR uppers and lowers with that, it works very well on aluminum and is very durable. But you need an oven of a size to hold it. Baking temperature is 300 degrees.

If it's truly black anodized aluminum, then the Birchwood Casey Aluminum black works great.

Biggest keys are to get everything clean, and most importantly, get past the oxidation on the aluminum. It will not stain oxidized aluminum. Oxidized is white-ish and cloudy, true raw exposed is a silvery color.

Experienced this with 2 particular semiauto pistols, a Zastava CZ 99 and a S&W 915.
The 915 had a scratch on the frame, on the dustcover. Cleaned it with an alcohol wipe and then applied the Aluminum Black. Took great, you REALLY have to look for it to find it.

The CZ99 had some weak coloring on the frame. That would literally wipe off with alcohol, almost as easily as a dry-erase marker. The aluminum underneath was oxidized, almost like a primer. A whitish haze. The Black would NOT take to that, but then I scrubbed it with a scotchbrite pad, exposing the silver-colored aluminum beneath. That DID take it.

I have used Birch wood Alumilum Black on trigger guards that I made for
Mossbergs and old Sav 22s. They were cut out of aircraft Alumilum plate
and it did a good job. Alumilum was polished but I went oneor it with
fine emery cloth before apply finish & degreaser with acetone.

Me-I'd leave it alone as you might screw it up more the more you try to fix it. I agree it is a pisser and you're probably still angry with yourself. If you gotta do something do it carefully and to the whole receiver as you ain't gonna get a match no matter what you do,

BTW SWEET gun!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Love those .22 pumps

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Forum consigliere

Might try Duplicolor spray black epoxy.
It dries hard as a rock. Around $9.

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I told you not to use Lifebuoy

Yep, that's paint. And good news! The paint's a lot easier to restore than anodizing. It'll likely look better than new once restored.

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Pisgah