I made a half-hearted offer on this and the guy took it, darn.



As far as I could tell it was unfired in what looks like the original box. Serial number puts it a 1972 manufacture. Of course I had to shoot it. Was getting some fail to ejects, the spend case caught down in the slide, not high enough to call it a stove pipe. I figure a new recoil spring and new mag should fix it.

Do the grips look original?

Thanks, Mike.

__________________
Isaiah 41:10

I had a pre 70 series , 1968 mfg. that had identical grips.

Grips look correct for the era. Believe Colt referred to them as "Coltwood."

"Coltwood" was the plastic grips Colt issued during the early 1950s. But I agree that these look period correct.

Best Regards, Les

__________________
SWCA 3084, SWHF 495, PGCA 3064

That’s a nice one!
Colt used those grips in the early 70s and then went to the checkered ones

Ya that is nice! I am sure the function will be fine, try new recoil spring first then go to new mags I always try to remember to change one thing at a time otherwise I never know what was the root cause of any problem...

Save the factory mag for show. Get some Wilson ETM for shooting.

First check the tuning on the extractor. Sounds like the fired case isn’t being held in the cycling slide long enough.

I agree with the above posters; it is both mag and extractor problems. I also agree that the original mags should be put away and quality aftermarket mags purchased. The extractor should be tuned by a pistolsmith that 'knows' the M 1911. The design by John Browning was period correct, but to keep one functioning the 'tune' must be correct. Even then it will lose the correct bend and again become a problem. When shooting USPSA and IDPA I kept two extra extractors in my range bag. That is why I like very much the new external extractor design. ..

BTW: You do know what that handgun is worth today do you not?

BTW2: The recoil spring should be matched with each and every specific brand of ammo you are shooting. Buy a range of Wolfe's springs and experiment. You will find the right combination.

Well, I know what I paid. But being a novice with 1911s I'm open to ideas of its worth...

Also, thank you for the info.

__________________
Isaiah 41:10

I had a nib SA series 90(1990) 1911@1 in the safe for over a decade. She jammed 1rd per 8rd mag. In all these years I don’t think I had 50rds through it. When I purchased every cd on working on the 1911 from Wilson combat, Jerry k dvd and book, agi I honed my skills and actually built my norinco 1911 project. After having success building the norinco I remembered the SA I had that stove piped. I did purchase all the 1911 tools from brownells. I took the SA extractor and found out it had no tention to hold the fired case. It would extract it and let it drop. In ten minutes I had the SA problem fixed. I even flared the bottom of the extractor so it would guide the case rim into the chamber easier. I also machined in a disconnector ramp on the bottom of the slide. Don’t go deep with it.

To tune my extractor I used the fixture from brownells with the pull gage. I set the extractor tention to the 1911 specs. By trade I’m a class A CNC machine builder. Guns aren’t that hard to work on.

I did pick up a series 80 government model 1911@1 in nickel. She’s growing roots in the safe, it was $1,000.

Following for valuation. This one is NIB with everything.

Attached Images

409025C4-FCB9-48DF-B764-6187F7CEABB7.jpeg (131.2 KB, 110 views)

__________________
Sure you did

Before doing anything else, did you field strip the gun and lube with an oil like Break-Free? ALWAYS do that with an auto you buy, before shooting.

But I think you were sold this gun by an owner who knew it had problems.
A new extractor or work on this one should solve the problem. And try a new Colt or Mec-Gar magazine.

Are you aware that the MK IV Series 70 uses a split collet barrel bushing? Those enhance accuracy, but a finger on the bushing may break and jam the gun. I prefer the older solid bushing. You'll probably have to change both barrel and bushing, as I think the Series 70 barrel has a slight flare to accommodate the collet bushing.

I owned two of these when they were new and they shot very well for a "stock" Govt. Model. But I was always paranoid about the collet bushing breaking.

If I was buying a Colt .45 auto now, it'd be a current stainless one.

I hope you got this Series 70 for under $1,000. About $850 would be better. But for far less, you can buy a CZ-75B or a M-92FS Beretta 9mm that'll be more accurate and probably more reliable. I trust modern 9mm JHP ammo to be an effective stopper. Feedback from the Iraq war told me that even military ball 9mm usually kills well. This info covers about 15 gunfights, not ballistic gelatin targets.

Checkered Coltwood stocks were standard in 72 for Government and Commanders.

"Sandblasted" / "Bark" stocks were used from 71-75 for Combat Commanders but I've seem Governments with them from factory as well.

Enclose an 1972 original ad for reference.

Attached Images

72 ad.jpg (81.0 KB, 73 views)

I have a series 70 Colt that I bought new in 1974. The sandblasted look
wood grips are correct. I seriously doubt that you need a new recoil
spring or mag. As mentioned above clean your new gun and lube it
with Breakfree CLP and shoot it with ammo that you know to be full
power. When new the series 70 guns are pretty tight because of the
collet bushing and require a bit of breaking in. I wouldn't worry about
the collet bushing breaking, mine never has.

I have been shooting my 70 Series GC since the 70's and have loaded over 25k lead swc rounds for it. I had problems when I first got it and I bought it used. There was an extractor problem and I also had the barrel throated and the ramp polished for the shooting of swc's.

It has been pretty much trouble free ever since. I did replace the collet bushing, but am not sure it was necessary. If you do, it is not necessary to replace the barrel.

Back in the early 90s my father in law bought a new Series 80. He had been the company armorer when he was in the Army in the 1950s and wanted a 1911 for old times sake. He had similar problems with the 1911. The fourth or fifth round would jam on every magazine. He had the pistol in several times for work. I think the smith eventually figured out the chamber was off center. My FIL eventually sold the 1911 out of frustration.

My first handgun was a Colt MkIV Series 70 in 45. As mentioned, your extractor needs to be tuned! The grip panels on mine are identical to your's.

As mentioned by another poster, you need to maintain your pistol's timing. For both my Colt and my Springfield Armory Trophy Match, I need to swap out recoil springs when I change ammo.

200gr lead SWC uses a 10# spring
200gr TMJ SWC used a 14# spring
230gr hardball used a standard 16# spring

__________________
Judge control not gun control!

DROOLLLLLL...

__________________
NICK-SWCA-NRA BENEFACTOR LIFE

Nice score on a really nice Colt Series 70 Government model. A couple of things.
The failure to fully eject could be insufficient extractor tension, the extractor rotating within it's tunnel, or gummed up lubricant in the extractor tunnel. Gummy lube on the receiver and slide rail might also slow the slide just enough to keep it from ejecting the brass.

Second, odds are that the barrel bushing is the collet style. The collet bushing had four fingers that were supposed to apply even pressure to the barrel at lockup. Nice idea, but many of those bushings suffered broken fingers and that will tie up the pistol. I'd recommend fitting a solid barrel bushing, put the collet bushing in the box with the original magazine.

If you want some good quality, yet not really expensive magazines, check out Metalform and Mec-Gar. Stick with the 7 round capacity, stamped flat metal follower with the bump near the center of the follower.

Great pistol! I've got a few other Colt's, all revolvers, from 1972 but I NEED to get me a 1911 made then one day.

I bought a stainless S80 back around 1985, I believe made either during or after the Colt strike.. I couldn’t put anything on paper 10 yards away. The only Colt 1911 I ever had an issue with, but just limited to the trigger. No other issues or failures.
Sent the gun to a factory Smith named Campbell Irwin in CT. He told me it was one of worse triggers he ever saw, but he smoothed it out nicely for me. I did a few Kings Gunworks mods to it and still have it.

Attached Images

E71BB98E-CC52-4FA9-9950-4672A267EEE4.jpeg (105.6 KB, 26 views)

__________________
Sure you did

IIRC, Colt referred to these as "weathered walnut."

Mike,

Congrats on the Gold Cup!! My Series 70 1974 GC is my most shot and most favorite target gun I own! I also shot it pretty well.

I do not believe those are the original grips though. Every single one I have ever seen has had checkered walnut and a gold medallion. They are all over ebay and not expensive should you decide to put originals on it. Once in a while you will see a silver medallion (I believe they were sometimes substituted when the gold ones had temporarily gone out of stock) but I've never seen smooth grips on a GC before.

Failures to eject are most often fixed by tweaking the extractor. That is done by slightly bending it and if you do a search there are explanations on just how to do it. Worse case scenario, try a different extractor - they are not expensive.

Good luck with it!! IMHO I think the Colt Series 70 is the best bang for the money in an American made target quality 1911! BTW the new ones being made today are EXCELLENT too!

Shoot it in good health!!

^
Gold Cup?

The O.P.'s pistol is a Government Model. The large slide roll marks and the "sandblasted" non checkered stocks with silver Colt medallions are correct for that pistol. In the later 70's Colt changed the slide roll marks to a smaller version and equipped the pistols with checkered walnut stocks with gold medallions.

Thank you all for the input. I'll be making small, one at a time adjustments to the pistol as I go. I forgot to mention I did buy a new Colt mag and the FTEs happened with both magazines. The weapon was field stripped, inspected and new lube added before firing. I shot a box of Rem 230 grn and Geko 230 grn and had FTE with each. Since I have a slightly used recoil spring in my box I'll try it next.

Thank you all again for the input, keep it coming!

__________________
Isaiah 41:10

Sir, you are absolutely correct!! I don't know what the hell I was thinking when I looked at it! I have Gold Cups on my brain lately.

In that case Mike, your grips may indeed be original! Sorry, I should have put my glasses on - lol! The Congrats still hold though.

Here's my Series 70...a Gold Cup. It has the bushing with the fingers, but none have ever broken, and it functions just fine, but I have only shot it with standard ball ammunition (Federal).



Best Regards, Les

__________________
SWCA 3084, SWHF 495, PGCA 3064

Congratulations on your Colt! I have 1911's, but no Colt 70 series. You are right that it should not be too hard to get it functioning properly. My 1st 1911 was a used Auto Ordnance. It sure was disappointing function wise. After some spring changes and a new extractor it functioned well. Trial & error. Bob

Les-

Have you tried Federal's 230 grain Match load? It shot FANTASTIC groups in my Gold Cup. That was about 1970, but it had the solid bushing. I bought it at a USAF exchange in 1966.

I've never used any but the issue recoil spring, and in four Government Models, a Gold Cup, amd a former British Lend-Lease gun, they all fed everything I tried. I think the exception was occasional failures to cycle right with light 185 grain factory SWC's.

My handload was the 200 grain SWC Hensley & Gibbs No. 68 with enough Unique powder to rate about 900 FPS. I also liked Western's old 210 grain lead SWC load, which was lighter. I never had the jams with it that I did with 185's. Super-Vel's 190 grain JHP fed and shot well. Maj. George C. Nonte killed a black bear up a tree with that round. You may have seen his article in, Shooting Times.

I'm baffled by the members who say they have to change recoil springs with every load. ??

A Colt .45 auto was my travelling gun, because the airlines wanted me to remove the firing pin on handguns in luggage! I could do this with the Colt, but on few other guns. The firing pin and spring went in a small plastic pill bottle.

I did carry a S&W M-36-1 a time or two on SW Airlines, which didn't give me the grief about firing pins.
And when I realized that I had a lockblade German hunting knife in my pocket, I asked the SW counter girl (a hottie!) to unzip my suitcase (behind her on a counter) and insert the knife, she was very accomodating. My Swiss Army knife was within security limits back then. I last carried a knife on a plane in 2000, and my Victorinox Spartan raised no eyebrows. Boy, did things change a couple of years later!

The standard recoil spring for the 1911-A1 Government Model is 16 pounds and works fine with full power ammo. Some may work ok with lightly loaded target ammo, but most will need a 14 pound recoil spring to allow the slide to cycle correctly.

Les,

My GC has the Finger Bushing as well and after tens of thousands of rounds it too has never broken. I did break a Finger Bushing on a Colt Series 80 Gov't Model after over 10,000 - 12,000 rounds of 230 grain Hardball was shot through it - but back then I did not reload. Getting another one was a little challenging but they are available if you look hard enough. Worst case scenario you can easily fit a standard type Bushing and then you never have to worry. That said, the Finger type Bushings seem quite accurate and last a lot longer than given credit for.

BTW, I really like the old Peters ammo boxes!!

All this talk of finger bushings had me curious and a little concerned. This 1911 has what I assume is a standard type as on the left and I assume the one on the right is the finger (Collet) bushing?

__________________
Isaiah 41:10

Yep.Ive seen them on eBay and gunbroker occasionally if you want to pick one up

I'm baffled by the members who say they have to change recoil springs with every load. ??

Texas Star,

Sorry for confusing you. I need to qualify. Ninety-eight percent of my 45 shooting over the years has been shooting bulls-eye using bunny f@rt rounds to enhance accuracy while reducing recoil and sight disturbance.

I am guessing that my 200gr lead load with about 4.7gr of WW231 pushes the bullet about 725 fps. With anything heavier than a 10# recoil spring, it short strokes and I can get both an FTE or an FTF. With my 200gr TMJ load for EIC matches, a 14# spring is in order to provide reliable cycling and reduce the slide from battering the frame. For full power service loads, I go with the standard 16# spring for the obvious reasons. For the timed and rapid fire strings, where 5 rounds need to be placed on target at 25yards in 10 to 20 seconds, you want to minimize recoil!

__________________
Judge control not gun control!

Neat pistol, my father has one that looks the same and he purchased it in 1972.

I would enlarge the ejection port, bevel the mag well, ambi safety, larger mag release, Bomar sights, beaver tail grip safety, upgrade recoil spring, and polish the ramp.
Really nice find.

__________________
"from my cold dead hands" C.H.

CONGRATULATIONS, THATS A BEAUTY. THE 70s SERIES IS THE CREAM OF THE CROP.....

THE GOVERNMENT MODEL IS THE BASIC 1911. THEY SHIP FROM THE FACTORY, WITH 2 MAGAZINES, MARKED COLT. THE GM DOES NOT FEATURE THE LOWERED EJECTION PORT....

THE PISTOL WAS DESIGNED TO SHOOT GI ISSUED, 230GR, FMJ BALL AMMO. I DON'''

IMHO, THE GRIPS ARE NOT ORIGINAL TO THIS PISTOL. IT WOULD HAVE SHIPPED WITH PLAIN CHECKERED WALNUT STOCKS---UNLESS THIS GUN WAS SPECIAL ORDERED FROM THE COLT CUSTOM SHOP.....

STOCKS LIKE THIS MIGHT HAVE BEEN PURCHASED LATER FROM THE CUSTOM SHOP, OR EVEN ON E-BAY........

__________________
'Nam 1968-69.DAV,VFW,NRA Inst.

**Update**

I changed out the recoil spring for a slightly used one, used the new magazine and tweeked the extractor to give it some extra grab and only had two FTEs out of another 100 rounds, Remington and Magtech 230 ball. The guy who runs the range says I need to put another 300 through it to "break it in". We'll see.

Thank you all again for your input, Mike.

__________________
Isaiah 41:10

Maintaining / tuning / repairing the 1911A1 is not voodoo. Tuning the extractor is a fairly straight forward and easy task. Get one of Jerry Kuhnhausen's shop manuals on the 1911A1, or Patrick Sweeney's book. Or the old -14, or -34 will show you how to do it (TM 9-1005-211-34 M1911A1 Direct and General Support Maintenance Manual June-22-64). I would get a factory weight recoil spring from Wolff, and some good quality magazines first, prior to tuning the extractor. There are several aftermarket drop in extractors out there as well should you still need to replace it.

Nice Colt.
Your package would table at $1350-1450.00
in Texas and sell in a blink.

The Grips are 100 percent correct and are most likely original to the pistol. Original Colt mfg. Series 70 magazines will be marked COLT .45 AUTO. and have a drain hole in the bottom front it. Later Series 70 contract magazines made by Metalform have the letter M and a Rampant Colt along with COLT 45 AUTO on the base. They also have the drain hole in front and a weld running down the length of the mag on the back.