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Old 02-09-2020, 12:50 PM
Pisgah Pisgah is offline
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"How do I bob the hammer on my revolver?" is a common question on the forum. It's really a simple job if you have access to a grinder of some type. Mine is a belt grinder. I recently obtained a Taurus Model 605 in exchange for an old Rossi 462 that had been recalled and deemed unrepairable. The exchange was fine by me, as the 462 had been bought cheap only a few days before the recall was issued, and this Model 605 J-frame-sized gun is an excellent little pocket rocket, with one exception -- the hammer was just prominent enough to be a real pocket-snagger. So, out to the shop this morning for a 5-minute job, and here is the result. The hammer was shortened just enough to remove the "crook" in the end, then the bottom edge was slightly rounded. Snagging eliminated, thumb-cocking and de-cocking functions fully intact.
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Old 02-09-2020, 07:07 PM
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I did mine on my GP100 with a saw and a file then checked the top. It’s a copy of an optional hammer that used to be available for the six series revolvers called a speed hammer.

Some will come along to say that a bobbed hammer should not be able to be cocked. That’s why I checked mine. You start the hammer on its way back with the trigger then use your thumb to cock it.

First 2 pictures are my GP100. The Armslist is the one I copied. I think it’s a factory speed hammer.
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Old 02-09-2020, 07:59 PM
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I did a similar "partial bob" on my 637. I used a Dremel cutoff wheel to shorten the hammer spur, then rounded the edges of the remaining pad. The result still allows plenty of surface for thumb cocking but is much more snag-resistant.

While I had it out of the gun I also polished the back of the hammer to remove the rather prominent mold line. It doesn't improve performance in any way but looks much nicer to me.
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Old 05-23-2020, 01:50 PM
Johnnu2 Johnnu2 is offline
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I bobbed my 637 hammer several years ago; used the Dremel cut-off wheel and forgot how I finished everything off..... getting OLD. I can tell you that I DID buy a new hammer for the 'experiment'. I kept the old one just to restore at some point if I ever was to sell it. I also put on the old fashioned '1950's gangsta' grip panels. This gun completely disappears in the front pocket of my jeans. I've tested it in the freezing cold to assure it fires 100% with less hammer mass. I kept it out on the bench for hours in below freezing temps, then tried it. No problems. Hopefully, here are some pics.




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Old 05-23-2020, 04:27 PM
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One of the few "Dremel" jobs for firearms. Just the rough cut of course, the finishing, knurling and polishing done by hand.

Although I am not much of a "Bober" fan, I have done a few - but always acquired another hammer to do it to so the original remained unaltered. I'm very glad I did as I switched back to the originals after a short while.
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Old 05-24-2020, 08:58 AM
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Itís my opinion and preference that fixed sight double action revolvers should be bobbed, ones with adjustable sights should have spurred hammers.

Bobbed / fixed = streamlined and snag free for defensive use.

Adjustable / spurred = precision for Target or hunting.

Not saying there arenít exceptions. Just my thoughts.

Last edited by eveled; 05-24-2020 at 09:00 AM.
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Old 05-24-2020, 01:24 PM
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The snag problem is easily remedied by simply training yourself to place the end of your thumb against the hammer when drawing from a pocket.
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Old 05-27-2020, 08:17 AM
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I recently bobbed a hammer for a Ruger Speed Six snub with a dremel and a lot of hand work. I kept the original hammer intact and found a hammer to bob for $25. My intent was to check the new hammer for function before I bobbed it but the hammer arrived without a hammer dog. I ordered a hammer dog, plunger and spring and bobbed the hammer. The new hammer didn't function properly so I had to order another which did work fine which I also bobbed. If you order a replacement hammer to bob, make sure you check it for function BEFORE going through all the work.
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