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Old 10-15-2020, 02:54 PM
SW Gun Guy SW Gun Guy is offline
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Default Scope Info Please

Many years ago I bought a Savage 110FP in 308 from a friend that got it at an estate sale. It had been a target rifle and it had a Tasco scope that required turning the front glass housing to an exact distance. I never could see anything worth a darn. Trying to decide to sell it, but wanted to see what a different scope would do. Took an old 4 power 22 rifle scope off another gun because the tube diameter is the same (1 inch). Mounted it, shot it today and the first shot the scope hits me in the head. Backed my head away for remaining shots, but that left me only seeing part of the target as the view inside the sight was a black ring, with visible part in the middle. So... what do I need to look for in a scope that will allow my to keep my head further back but still have a full sight picture? I will try to get a picture of scope on rifle a little later. Thanks for any help.
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Old 10-15-2020, 03:08 PM
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Hawkeye3844 Hawkeye3844 is offline
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Well, the first thing to look at is the eye relief distance. Most good scopes will give you 3.5 - 4 inches of eye relief.
Now, do you want a fixed power scope, or variable power scope, e.g. Bushnell Trophy 3-9x40mm?
If you're doing target shooting only, a good fixed power of 6x or a little more. If shooting long distance targets, a good variable scope.
Most hunting needs can be met by using 4x or 6x scopes. Variable power scopes have become more and more popular throughout the ages.



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Old 10-15-2020, 03:10 PM
Injunbro Injunbro is offline
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Cheek weld. Bring your rifle up w/ eyes closed then open, adjust scope so it focuses w/out having to move your head. When shooting hold your cheek firmly against the stock (cheek weld) so you ride back w/ the recoil. Holding your head back will only give bad accuracy & you'll keep losing a game of dodge ball w/ the scope.
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Old 10-15-2020, 03:11 PM
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The Tasco sounds like a target scope with an adjustable objective. Old rimfire scopes often have short eye relief and typically don’t stand up to recoil. Get a quality rifle scope intended for a centerfire rifle and you’ll be fine.

1” tubes are very common these days and less expensive than 30mm scopes. A photo would help identify the rings/mounts you’re using, but mounts for a 110 Savage are easy to get. I’d recommend a Leupold 2-7X, but even a fixed 4X would be good. Their lifetime service policy is one of the best in the industry.
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Old 10-15-2020, 04:41 PM
SW Gun Guy SW Gun Guy is offline
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Thanks, all great information above. Yes, this would be probably a 100 yard target rifle. Lots of fun on gallon jugs of frozen water or better at this time of year, smashing pumpkins. Sounds like a fixed 6x would be about right. Will get a picture tonight as the rings seem to not allow much leeway of scope positioning. Chuck
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Old 10-15-2020, 05:43 PM
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Tasco scopes are less than perfect but they are generally better than you described. Try this. Set the front ring to the distance you are spotting and try screwing the rear bell in and out to see if that helps. I bet it does.

Ed
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Old 10-15-2020, 05:50 PM
Ivan the Butcher Ivan the Butcher is offline
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When mounting your scope, set up the eye relief so the cross hair is in focus by moving the scope to the front or back. The if the front lens (Objective) is adjustable, set it to you distance. Then focus the rear lens (ocular).

Make sure you range is the distance you think it is!

Those old 110 long actions are really long. Most sight and scope base companies make "cantilevered" rings to deal with all that length.

Ivan
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Old 10-15-2020, 06:36 PM
SW Gun Guy SW Gun Guy is offline
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Default attempt at photos

Got a couple pictures of Brutis, all 11.5 pounds of him. I just put this scope on it because I had it and wanted to see if I still wanted to shoot the rifle, or sell it. Not sure if I know how to load pictures, but here goes.
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File Type: jpg DSC01369.jpg (92.2 KB, 17 views)
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