First problem with my new RIA 1911.

MCorps0311 · #1 01-12-2021, 04:27 PM

Last night I field striped my new RIA 1911-A1 FS Tact II 10mm. I broken it down and everything was okay till I tried to put the take down pin back in. This morning I took it to a Gunsmith and he had a problem putting the pin back too. He did get it done and it work just fine now. I won't try to clean it again and the gunsmith said he had a hard time getting it aligned with the little marking on the slide, I will take it to my gunsmith next time. Have anyone else had that problem with their RIA 1911-A1 FS Tact II 10mm? I busted up my hands trying to put it back together. All is good now but I couldn't sleep at all last night I was to upset.

Fishinfool · #2 01-12-2021, 04:34 PM

Maybe you were having a hard time aligning the slide release with the hole in the barrel link?

Sometimes getting the slide release back in its little spring loaded notch can be a pain without leaving a scratch on the frame.

Nice gun, by the way. I was looking at one last year at a gun show, but already have a Glock 10mm that I seldom shoot. My RIA .45 1911 has proven to be a solid and reliable gun.

Larry

MRB1 · #3 01-12-2021, 04:41 PM

I always seem to have trouble with the pin. That, and launching the spring cap into orbit makes cleaning interesting.

Mike, SC Hunter · #4 01-12-2021, 05:08 PM

No problem with my RIA 10.

4barrel · #5 01-12-2021, 05:24 PM

The barrel may need a shorter link. You should be able to remove the barrel bushing first to release pressure. It will probably be ok after a couple hundred rounds.

MCorps0311 · #6 01-12-2021, 06:01 PM

My RIA 1911- A1 FS Tact II 10mm has the long guide rod not the short guide rod.

Steve912 · #7 01-12-2021, 07:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MCorps0311

This morning I took it to a Gunsmith and he had a problem putting the pin back too. He did get it done and it work just fine now.

Is problem getting the slide stop to push in the detent (the same
spring that does thumb safety detent, crs the name), so slide stop
can seat into frame?

Maybe just break the rear-inside edge of slide stop, if it's
square--to help it press detent rearwards...hopefully the detent
itself has a nice rounded (not square) end cap.

Guess if there was a burr inside the spring tube, or on detent
itself, that might make pressing it back, even more difficult,
too.

max · #8 01-12-2021, 07:26 PM

I have a very difficult time also with my RIA .45. I own several 1911's and this is the only one that takes as long to get back together as it does to clean it.

However, I am very satisfied with this gun. It is accurate, reliable and it was cheap.

Beauetienne · #9 01-12-2021, 07:43 PM

I hear their customer service is good. I would find out.
G'Luck!

Rpg · #10 01-12-2021, 08:00 PM

Are you trying to reassemble the gun under slide spring tension?

canoeguy · #11 01-12-2021, 11:51 PM

I had a similar problem with my Rock Island 1911, the spring tension on the takedown/safety is strong. I had to assist the spring with a thin brass punch to get the takedown lever back in place. Same thing with a new Springfield 1911, must be using stronger springs than I have been used to.

stansdds · #12 01-13-2021, 08:05 AM

John Moses Browning designed the 1911 to use a barrel bushing and recoil spring plug that would be installed after the slide, barrel, recoil spring and recoil spring guide were on the receiver and the slide stop pin inserted in the receiver. This system works very well.

When you eliminate the barrel bushing, you have to use a reverse recoil spring plug and that means you have to hold the slide retracted against recoil spring pressure while you install the slide stop. This is something that can be quite difficult and the heavier the recoil spring, the harder it is to hold that slide retracted to the exact spot where the slide stop will drop in and keep the barrel link in a position that will allow the slide stop pin to enter.

Some full length guide rods do have a cross drilled hole that allows you compress the recoil spring and you insert a small pin or even a paper clip into the hole to keep the spring compressed. This can make reassembly easier.

peh_7 · #13 01-14-2021, 02:42 PM

Please watch this youtube video. If your guide rod does not have the hole you should get a replacement from Armscor.

H Richard · #14 01-14-2021, 08:47 PM

From what I have seen the tube holding the spring detente for the slide stop and the safety has been installed or in some cases an integral part of the frame and the "coating/finish" is put on with the tube installed. This makes the interior of the tube "under spec" diameter and the spring and detente's are barely able to move. I would recommend total disassembly and removing both and remove the spring assembly then run a correct diameter (I don't know what that may be) drill bit (by hand) through the tube to clean it out and bring it to spec diameter.

JcMack · #15 01-14-2021, 09:31 PM

I'm a little lost. You mean you can get the slide lock lever pin through the link hole but can't get the lever to fully seat because the spring tension on the detent is to great? Just rock and pull the thumb safety out (catch the spring loaded safety detent) and the slide lock lever will seat easily. Put the safety lever back and push the safety detent in with with something thin and press the lever home.

max · #16 01-14-2021, 11:51 PM

The problem I have had, and I thought what the OP was talking about was getting the slide stop completely through the frame. I can't line up the pin with the hole in the barrel link. This is my only 1911 that gives me this problem. I always get it back together, but it takes more time.

JcMack · #17 01-15-2021, 09:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by max

The problem I have had, and I thought what the OP was talking about was getting the slide stop completely through the frame. I can't line up the pin with the hole in the barrel link. This is my only 1911 that gives me this problem. I always get it back together, but it takes more time.

Thankyou for the clarification. I couldn't figure out the issue. Sorry for the thread drift.

bananaman · #18 01-15-2021, 09:18 AM

No problems with my RIA, 9, or .40. They are a rock solid value! 9 mm is a 5" Tactical I. .40 is a Tactical II Comander. Bob

Hair Trigger · #19 01-15-2021, 10:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4barrel

The barrel may need a shorter link. You should be able to remove the barrel bushing first to release pressure. It will probably be ok after a couple hundred rounds.

No barrel bushing

Quote:

Originally Posted by stansdds

When you eliminate the barrel bushing, you have to use a reverse recoil spring plug and that means you have to hold the slide retracted against recoil spring pressure while you install the slide stop. This is something that can be quite difficult and the heavier the recoil spring, the harder it is to hold that slide retracted to the exact spot where the slide stop will drop in and keep the barrel link in a position that will allow the slide stop pin to enter.

Some full length guide rods do have a cross drilled hole that allows you compress the recoil spring and you insert a small pin or even a paper clip into the hole to keep the spring compressed. This can make reassembly easier.

This pistol's action is identical to my Ruger SR1911 (it's 10mm, also), and has a much stiffer spring than a .45 due to the higher recoil. It's almost impossible to take down or reassemble without using the little tool (paperclip) to hold the spring in tension while the slide is removed, but is a piece of cake with it. On a new gun, the slide lock retention pin and the slide lock lever have no wear on their contact surfaces and are difficult to move against each other; a drop of oil on the retention pin during reassembly will help them snap in place. Once you've taken the gun down several times, it will get easier. You should press the slide lock lever straight in past the retention pin, rather than rotate it, as shown in the video, because you're likely to create wear on the frame finish below the retention pin. Doesn't hurt the gun, but the wear mark will show. See picture below, this is my Springfield .45 I bought used; I didn't do that.

I have two bushingless 1911's, and have come to like the takedown better than the one with a bushing, even though it requires no tool. Paperclips are all over the place, throw one in your shooting bag or your pocket if you're in the field and need to take the gun down.

stansdds · #20 01-15-2021, 10:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hair Trigger

No barrel bushing

This pistol's action is identical to my Ruger SR1911 (it's 10mm, also), and has a much stiffer spring than a .45 due to the higher recoil. It's almost impossible to take down or reassemble without using the little tool (paperclip) to hold the spring in tension while the slide is removed, but is a piece of cake with it. On a new gun, the slide lock retention pin and the slide lock lever have no wear on their contact surfaces and are difficult to move against each other; a drop of oil on the retention pin during reassembly will help them snap in place. Once you've taken the gun down several times, it will get easier. You should press the slide lock lever straight in past the retention pin, rather than rotate it, as shown in the video, because you're likely to create wear on the frame finish below the retention pin. Doesn't hurt the gun, but the wear mark will show. See picture below, this is my Springfield .45 I bought used; I didn't do that.

I have two bushingless 1911's, and have come to like the takedown better than the one with a bushing, even though it requires no tool. Paperclips are all over the place, throw one in your shooting bag or your pocket if you're in the field and need to take the gun down.

I cut my 1911 teeth on the M1911-A1 as JMB designed it. Guess I'm getting to be an old fart, I just prefer the original system. I won't tell you what that mark/scratch is called in the 1911 world, it's not a complimentary term, but pretty much all 1911 owners have applied one at some point.

boatbum101 · #21 01-15-2021, 11:01 AM

Another geezer who's always stuck with GI recoil setup w/ bushing . Also have 2 with coned barrel / rev plug setup . Pretty much same as far as ease . Then again I've pretty much stuck with 45acp , 38 Super & a couple of 38 special conversions . My 2700 22 is a Marvel Conversion . I can see with the heavier springs it could be a PITA .

Ivan the Butcher · #22 01-15-2021, 11:13 AM

I built about 40 1911's. Most with the GI guide rod and plug. But I built about 10 with long "Full Length" guide rods. When you have massive return spring tension, the FL guide rod keeps the spring from "Snaking" inside the gun and rubbing, causing FTE and stove pipping (Plus arresting recoil). Every FL guide rod I used was Two Part, with the rear half the same length as the GI guide rod, allowing the traditional take down procedure.

FL guide rods have a seam were the halves screw together. The means of turning the front half varies! Screw slot, Allen head, and small thru hole are the 3 I have worked with, there could easily be others!

If you don't have the neoprene (plastic) recoil buffer on the guide rod, you better git one! This will increase spring tension by about 1/2 pound on a 5" barrel (ON 45 ACP MODELS), about 1.5 pounds on 4" and about 6 pounds on 3.25" models. You may (read that as most likely) need to reduce return spring tension on 10mm models, because the start with so much higher power!

Wolfe and Wilson customer service are the people to talk to (Remington CS no longer exists!) Springs are relatively cheap. So buy at least one above and one below the recommended power. I Know Wilson made a 8 spring kit for 45's they may make one for 10mm (or make your own, just label which strength they are!)

Ivan

stansdds · #23 01-15-2021, 11:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ivan the Butcher

I built about 40 1911's. Most with the GI guide rod and plug. But I built about 10 with long "Full Length" guide rods. When you have massive return spring tension, the FL guide rod keeps the spring from "Snaking" inside the gun and rubbing, causing FTE and stove pipping (Plus arresting recoil). Every FL guide rod I used was Two Part, with the rear half the same length as the GI guide rod, allowing the traditional take down procedure.

FL guide rods have a seam were the halves screw together. The means of turning the front half varies! Screw slot, Allen head, and small thru hole are the 3 I have worked with, there could easily be others!

If you don't have the neoprene (plastic) recoil buffer on the guide rod, you better git one! This will increase spring tension by about 1/2 pound on a 5" barrel (ON 45 ACP MODELS), about 1.5 pounds on 4" and about 6 pounds on 3.25" models. You may (read that as most likely) need to reduce return spring tension on 10mm models, because the start with so much higher power!

Wolfe and Wilson customer service are the people to talk to (Remington CS no longer exists!) Springs are relatively cheap. So buy at least one above and one below the recommended power. I Know Wilson made a 8 spring kit for 45's they may make one for 10mm (or make your own, just label which strength they are!)

Ivan

My experience with a truly heavy recoil spring in the 1911 was in a Colt Delta Elite 10mm Auto. The factory dual coil springs and plastic guide rod was... an interesting concept with highly questionable results. In that 10mm, I did find that a full length guide rod and a 24 pound spring worked better. Better still, a flat bottom firing pin stop, heavy hammer spring, and a 20 pound recoil spring to tame slide velocity.

My only experience with a two piece full length guide rod came to an end when I found it could unscrew itself during extended firing sessions. I have used shock buffers, not a big fan of them on self defense 1911's as they shorten the distance the slide can travel and they can begin to disintegrate, potentially tying up the pistol, but they are fine on range guns.

CH4 · #24 01-15-2021, 12:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MCorps0311

Last night I field striped my new RIA 1911-A1 FS Tact II 10mm. I broken it down and everything was okay till I tried to put the take down pin back in. This morning I took it to a Gunsmith and he had a problem putting the pin back too. He did get it done and it work just fine now. I won't try to clean it again and the gunsmith said he had a hard time getting it aligned with the little marking on the slide, I will take it to my gunsmith next time. Have anyone else had that problem with their RIA 1911-A1 FS Tact II 10mm? I busted up my hands trying to put it back together. All is good now but I couldn't sleep at all last night I was to upset.

Send Phil an email:

[email protected]

They’ll make it right.

H Richard · #25 01-15-2021, 01:14 PM

My experience with the RIA Officers Mod (3 1/2") in both 45 and 9mm was the reverse plug on the recoil spring would peen on the edges. My opinion, soft metal. It would bind some in removal and re-installation and I had to take a fine stone and smooth out the edge of the reverse plug to get it to fit. Had to do this 2 or 3 times over the 3-4 years I owned them, shot a lot, but not excessively. I liked the guns, but the steel used was not the quality you find in a Colt.

Hair Trigger · #26 01-15-2021, 10:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stansdds

I won't tell you what that mark/scratch is called in the 1911 world, it's not a complimentary term,

I've heard it, but couldn't bring it to mind, still can't. Something like "rookie scratch" or probably worse. The guy who sold me the 1911 in the pic told me, and I took a lesson from the mark when I bought my other two, they don't have the mark.

stansdds · #27 01-16-2021, 10:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hair Trigger

I've heard it, but couldn't bring it to mind, still can't. Something like "rookie scratch" or probably worse. The guy who sold me the 1911 in the pic told me, and I took a lesson from the mark when I bought my other two, they don't have the mark.

"rookie scratch" would be the kind term.