Truly a great revolver and I love that these seem impervious to timing issues. All of the Ruger DA revolvers seem to be hell for stout when it comes to timing, this is an area where I believe Ruger just slaughtered both S&W and Colt.

But I must get this off my chest, it’s the reason that I opened this discussion. While the trigger and lockwork that is all modular was a fine way to skin that cat, whoever came up with the cylinder and yoke arrangement was a torture artist.

In the last 15 years I have pulled and replaced Ruger cylinders from yokes maybe five times and each and every single time it has been a total nightmare.

Some may say that the answer is to not do it. To that I wish that I could agree, but simply… the cylinder’s ability to freely rotate has an extremely large affect on trigger pull or even simply cocking the hammer in single action. So unless you do not and will not EVER care that you DA trigger pull will eventually grow more heavy, you’ll have to pull that cylinder eventually.

It’s just a horrendous juggling of small pins, rocker arm, spring loaded detente and not a one of them is a smoothly finished part that glides and falls in to place.

If you have never done it… it sucks. If you have done it and you don’t think it’s awful, maybe you know something that I’ve simply never figured out.

We naturally compare great guns from different manufacturers. The S&W vs Ruger debate has been done a million times, and I enjoy both in my collection. But it’s fact that my S&W cylinder pulls from the yoke and yoke from the frame with ONE small screw. The Ruger DA cylinder removal and reassembly is like trying to build a ship in a bottle. I really loathe it.

It would bother me less if the entire revolver was lousy, but that’s 180 degrees from reality, the GP-100 is a fantastic revolver.

Geez, if it's THAT bad pulling the cylinder, then I'm scared how bad the trigger pull must become that you've repeatedly put yourself through such a tedious nightmare of a process in order to help mitigate it.

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Shooting Comfort is bilateral.

Five times in fifteen years… twice on a single revolver and once each on three others.

Reassembling one of the Ruger 22 auto pistols is an exercise in frustration. I don’t believe maintenance was much of a thought for Ruger designers through the years.

After you do this a few times, it's not as difficult as it seems the first time or two. However, I recently disassembled my Mark I and Mark II. It had been about thirty years since I did this and both guns had been fired a lot but were still functioning fine. I was surprised how little grime had built up in three decades. I could have waited at least another ten years for a disassembly. Ruger designers probably didn't give maintenance much thought because it's seldom necessary.

I've never heard of a GP100 trigger getting heavier over time. Not saying it ain't true, but after years on the Ruger forum I think I'd have noticed if anyone had said that.

I haven't shot thousand of rounds through my GP100 but it is my favorite revolver and the trigger is excellent with a lighter Wolff spring and it's never failed me in any way, shape, or form. The trigger has never gotten heavier. Just sayin'.

Looks like you could just drain a little oil down the center pin and roll with it.

This guy did ity in 6 minutes

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Forum consigliere

Cool; now field strip and reassemble a Mark III in two minutes

I disassembled a Ruger Std only once, also after many years and many thousands of rounds. Didn't need it.

Regardless, to reassemble it I merely read the instruction manual and it went back together in short order.

I never did understand what all the hullabaloo was!

To remove a Ruger DA revolver cylinder from the weapon , does't one have to disassembly the revolver ??

Bud, if you're pulling cylinders for that reason alone, and not serious issues/failure, you're bored, or you read WAY too much!

I got about halfway through Caje's video. What an ordeal, all those pins. "And if you remove this one, this other assembly falls out." Also, "You need a flathead screwdriver with a hole drilled in it."

GunScrubber, anyone?

Kaaskop49
Shield #5103

I've seen the trugger assembly pulled out of a gp. Your right their a pain. My buddy did it for me. He thinks its because the inside of the frame and assembly are not polished. Its however they came out . Things dont just slide in and out. I got one of the lipsey's huns in 327. Its fun to shoot.

I'll see your Ruger 22 and raise you getting the slide back on any striker fired model of Grand Power. Then there's the 9mm Remington R51.

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Release the Kraken

Pulling the trigger assembly
from a GP100 really isn't
difficult. Then the cylinder
can come out. Watch a few
videos.

And think of this, the GP100
cylinder will never fall out
during a match which has
happened with Smith
revolvers. That tiny screw
does and can come loose at
the worst times.

As for the .22 auto, a "trick"
exists in turning the gun upside
down to move the hammer
into place.

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Ubi Est Mea

Taking the cylinder OFF THE CRANE is the reason I opened this discussion, but not a soul posting in the thread gets it. Whatever.

Check "Ruger GP 100 Cylinder Disassembly"
on Youtube. That is a complicated because
it involves several small parts.

Perhaps best solution is to "blast" out
any gunk with Gun Scubber a
without disassembly.

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Ubi Est Mea

I have a bunch of Colt Woodsmans, the Ruger is a *****cat.

I disassembled my security six, cleaned it, lubed it with moly, burnished it in. Back in 1976. No problems.

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Plant garlic in the fall

Off is easy - if I'm missing a point getting it back on can be a challenge. Although I don't see anything in the above post specific to removal only. Why is removal difficult?

If it's reassembly, I use Tetra grease or Gunslick to hold the cylinder yoke retaining tab spring in place during reassembly. I have an 8 penny finishing nail tapped into a workbench to depress the tab. I hold the cylinder yoke assembly in my left had, wiggle the pin in with my right.

Re Rugers and timing. They're not really timed same as Colt or SAA revolvers. The hand drops down with plenty of clearance, but it snaps right back up and leaves a drag line just like S&W.

Years ago, I bought one of those Ruger D/A ejector bits. I don't recall why, never learned how to use it, etc. My GP100 seems to function just fine, so I don't think I'll take the cylinder apart anytime soon. But seeing the video, at least I know now what the tool is used for

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NRA Life, COTEP 640

Yep. those Colts have that little button in the slide for a reason.

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S&W Accumulator

Love my GP100! Mine's been customized and has a trigger that rivals the Python.
Here she is at the gun shop trying on some new clothes in leather and next to her new sister .357, a new 4.25" Colt Python (sans timing issues) I just purchased!

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Dave Ramsey Cultist

With a minor correction. Mine sits in the safe until the next time I meet up with a buddy who has the technique down-pat. Something about crossing his legs, and which tooth he uses to bite down on his lip.

I know people who can. Are you just talking about removing the upper and bolt, then reassemble? If so I can easily do that in under 2 minutes.

This will be received as heresy I’m sure, but I’ve owned and shot revolvers for over 40 years now and they’ve pretty much all been working guns.

I hear time after time that too much oil will cause gunk in the action. That may be true *if* you are using an excessively heavy oil *and/or* your revolvers just sit around unused most of the time letting that oil dry down to a form or varnish.

On the other hand, with revolvers used for duty or concealed carry and/or out in the weather and fired on a regular I have liberally oiled them for literally decades and never encountered the above mentioned issue with congealed oil. On the rare occasions when I remove a side plate, they are well lubricated inside, but gunk and varnish free.

In terms of the cylinder rotating on the ejector rod and crane, I wipe down and then apply some oil to both ends of the ejector rod as part of the regular cleaning process. It keeps any grunge in there loose and effectively keeps it flushed out over time.

My go to oils tend to be either Rem Oil or CLP and neither are prone to gumming up.

For surface protection on a stored firearm, or for oiling the slide and frame rails on a 1911, Hi Power, CZ 75, etc, I use a heavier oil like Hoppes gun oil, but I don’t use it on the internals of a revolver.

In any case, none of my several Ruger revolvers or my S&W revolvers have ever developed heavier DA trigger pulls due to the phenomenon the OP describes and none of them have ever needed to be detail stripped to that degree.

I think I may be missing something, but I have a GP100 (had 2) and the hardest part of anything was getting the trigger assembly out & back together. Small file fixed that. But after the trigger assy. came out the cylinder just slid off then back on. I hope I'm not missing any parts, but the gun shoots great.
Now, that spring & cap thing on the 1911s wanna rip my head off! Goggles are a must!
Now, I did notice on my .327 FM that if I shoot regular .32s in it for a while I'll have to brush out the cylinder for the longer shell; kinda like .357 after a .38 spl sometimes. That ejector star gets gunked up more on the GP100 than the other revolvers. Maybe it's just the caliber.