I have some clarifying questions about this rifle before I go on the hunt for one.

What I know:
It needs to be chambered in .357
I will likely put some type of short-range optic on it or at the very least some sort of peep sight. (much prefer the ability to mount an optic though)
I dislike the look of the octagon barrel I've seen on some lever guns.

In searching gunbroker I see statements like:

"has tang safety" Is this important? I seem to recall the newer ones have a different kind of safety?

"Pre-Warnings" What does that mean? Newer models have warnings on the gun or something?

"micro-groove barrel" Do they all have micro-groove barrel or is this something special?

"Carbine, 18" barrel" Is 18" the only barrel length available? If there are longer barrels does the .357 gain any appreciable velocity or accuracy out of a longer than 18" barrel?

Also, is there a stainless version of the 1894?

Finally, I currently reload for .357 and .38 in my revolvers, often times using lead bullets. Is there anything special that one needs to be aware of when loading for the rifle? Any particular bullet profiles more feed friendly than others etc?

I'm aware of the need to use round nose type bullets in my 30/30 due to the tube magazine, but I assume there is no .357 bullet profile that would be pointy enough to cause possible problems in a .357 rifle?

Thanks

I have some clarifying questions about this rifle before I go on the hunt for one.

What I know:
It needs to be chambered in .357
I will likely put some type of short-range optic on it or at the very least some sort of peep sight. (much prefer the ability to mount an optic though)
I dislike the look of the octagon barrel I've seen on some lever guns.

In searching gunbroker I see statements like:

"has tang safety" Is this important? I seem to recall the newer ones have a different kind of safety?

"Pre-Warnings" What does that mean? Newer models have warnings on the gun or something?

"micro-groove barrel" Do they all have micro-groove barrel or is this something special?

"Carbine, 18" barrel" Is 18" the only barrel length available? If there are longer barrels does the .357 gain any appreciable velocity or accuracy out of a longer than 18" barrel?

Also, is there a stainless version of the 1894?

Finally, I currently reload for .357 and .38 in my revolvers, often times using lead bullets. Is there anything special that one needs to be aware of when loading for the rifle? Any particular bullet profiles more feed friendly than others etc?

I'm aware of the need to use round nose type bullets in my 30/30 due to the tube magazine, but I assume there is no .357 bullet profile that would be pointy enough to cause possible problems in a .357 rifle?

Thanks

Not sure if I understand your question(s)?
The micro goove is a trade name for Marlin rifling. Guess that's what makes them so accurate. Their 22 lr has it also.
I have the 1894 Cowboy in 44 special/magnum. I use the same bullets in my Smith 629, LRN. The rifle will probably not feed SWC very well but I never tried it.
There is a SS version of the 44 mag not sure of the 357.
I wanted the 357 also and my gun guy got in the regular version (not cowboy) IMO the Cowboy is a much nicer looking rifle and has a better feel to it. I did not buy the 357. I know you said you do not like the octogon barrel which is fine, they are both nice guns. I do not think one shoots any better than the other.
It sounds like you are looking for the 1894c under lever action center fire. The "c" is confusing as that does not mean Cowboy. I think it is for carbine as it is 18.5" instead of 20. It is a lighter and faster handling rifle than the Cowboy.
Mine just has a hammer block safety which takes some getting used to. You pull the trigger and the hammer falls just like it does when you fire it.

http://www.marlinfirearms.com/...centerfire/1894C.asp

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Still Running Against the Wind

This is a 94-C .357 with Williams peep sight and a red optic fiber front. They don't have tang safeties. The older ones have no safety at all. The newer ones have reg groove bbls. The 18" bbl gets about 3-400 more fps than a pistol. The "Cowboy" version has a 20" oct bbl. Mine feeds most any bullet, but I usually shoot rnd nose flat point cast lead at about 1650 fps. Rumor has a SS version coming. The one in the pic is my favorite rifle.

Take a look here and you can get some useful information about sighting options, etc. Aimpoint is the default RDS to use for a lot of reasons. I would be careful not to go longer than 18" barrel without a well thought out reason; the loss of handiness is greater than any advantage you might get. Consider also shortening the stock an inch or so; most are too long for practical use.

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NHI, 10-8.

I have the Marlin 1894C in .357 Magnum as well as the 1894 in .44 Magnum, both with Microgroove rifling.

I will tell you here and now that trying to find an accurate cast bullet load for these two Marlins with microgroove rifling has been frustratingly expensive and time consuming. The rifles shoot jacketed bullets with good accuracy, but cast bullets have not been anything to write home about. The bores are also slightly oversized, and that is a factor too.

On the other hand, my 1895 rifles in .45-70 have shot like a dream since I got them. One in Microgroove and the other in Ballard-type rifling. Both shoot quite well using standard .458" cast and jacketed bullets.

I would recommend that you look for the Ballard cut-type rifling for your selection.

I have the 1894-C, no crossbolt safety, round barrel, carbine length. Made in 1977 I think. It is a great rifle! They will be a little hard to find because all the CAS shooters like them.

The general feeling about Microgroove(R) and cast bullets is that it is hard to get them to shoot well. It is. But it can be done. They much prefer jacketed bullets and turn in great groups. However, if you use a really hard cast bullet, sized correctly, and use a powder that keeps the pressure in the right range to obturate it correctly (hint, Unique ain't it ) yet not push it too fast, it will work vry well. That sometimes takes LOTS of trial and error testing! The newer Cowboy versions with Ballard rifling are reported to be far less finicky using lead bullets and handle jacketed ones just fine, but they will have octagon barrels. Some of the very early round barrel versions of the 1894 did have Ballard rather than Microgroove(R) rifling, however --- good luck in the search for one of those.

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" I said, good DAY! "

XS and Skinner both make aperture sights that will screw right into the scope base screw holes on top of the receiver. I use the XS sights and they work well.
Late production rifles all have standard Ballard rifling as well as a cross bolt safety. If you don't like the safety just don't use it. It doesn't interefere with function at all.
Nifty little rifles.
I've heard that they're kind of difficult to find.

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Regards, Ron
USASA 1965/69

Thanks very much for the replies, as usual on this forum you get some excellent information.

Sounds like if I buy new my options are:
1894C: 18" barrel, 1:16 Ballard rifling, scope ready, hooded brass bead ramp front sight.

1894 cowboy: drop my aversion to the barrel shape, 20" barrel, 1:16 Ballard rifling, scope ready, marble carbine front sight, and something about serial number being on the side so as to facilitate tang sight installation?

Both of these have the hammer block safety which doesn't bother me so much as long as it doesn't interfere with normal operation. I.E. I can leave it off.

Does the serial number not being on the side really complicate matters on the 1894C if one desires to install an alternate rear sight? dave b's 94c has a peep sight but it must be located behind the serial number?

It also sounds like there is not really any appreciable gains in velocity/accuracy in going from an 18-20" barrel?

In short it doesn't sound like there is really any compelling reason to seek out a used version (other than maybe price) vs. just ordering a new one of the current models.

Wayne, the crossbolt safety does come in handy when you want to unload. Work the lever as fast as you want, it ain't gonna fire.

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Regards, Ron
USASA 1965/69

You can gain a bit from the rifle barrels but only by Handloading and likely you'll get to the point where you will have a "Rifle ONLY load" and then one for your revolver which isn't a particularly good idea in my mind. It didn't work in the past with cartridges like the .32-20 and I don't figure it will work in this case either. Load for your revolver and then make sure it works in your rifle.

Do what you will as far as unloading is concerned but this particular "suggestion" isn't what I consider to be a safe one. Also, it's a great way to spend lots of time chasing down your cartridges. Whatever method you use just make sure you remember the most important Rule and keep the muzzle pointed in a safe direction. Speed and Safety don't often go hand-in-hand.

You can get Lyman and Williams left side receiver mounted aperature sights (holes already present) that DO NOT require changing the front sight. Many other will require a new front sight, so check before you buy. Either Lyman or Williams were on sale for $60 something the other day in a couple catalogs I saw, sorry I can't remember the details.

The Marlin is an excellent gun and if you want a standard scope, it is about the only way to go. But I like the looks and handling of the classic Winchester 92 which is copied by Rossi. The Rossi's are popular with the Cowboy action shooters, come in many styles and finishes, and seem to work very well. They would be fine with peep sights, Scout Scope, or forward mounted Reddot/hologram sight. Like the Marlins, the older ones without a manual safety are what everyone wants, but I don't mind the safety on a levergun near as much as on the side of a Smith revolver.

Wayne, the ser # on the Cowboys is on the side of the receiver. The reg 94C has the # on the tang. Marbles and Lyman offer tang mtd sights which would cover the # on a 94C. Just about everything else mounts on top using the rear scope mnt holes. You can get a Williams FP peep for about $30. Good luck finding a rifle.

Just for reference; covering the serial number with a Tang Sight really isn't any kind of an "Issue" as long as you don't do something like drilling a hole through the Serial Number when you do it.

I really like my 1894c, its 3-4 years old and has the ballard type rifling however it does not like .38 Special length ammo at all, almost all .38 Special length rounds will cause it to lock up when cycling, it has never malfunctioned with .357's. This is a problem others have encountered, there are fixes (see below link) but I am happy using .357 in it. Many, if not most owners don't have any problems, but its common enough.

http://marauder.homestead.com/files/Marlin94Fix.html

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William H. Smith

As far as MicroGroove versus Ballard rifling, I have both and the only difference in the two is the number of lands in the barrel. Their description of "deep cut" is so much bs in my opinion. The Micro groove has 12 to 16 lands or so and the Ballard has six, but not a bit deeper. I have had no trouble getting my MicroGroove to shoot lead accurately. The 20" Cowboy model looks nicer but feels like somebody is hanging a lead weight off the muzzle. I much prefer the round (much llighter by 1 lb)18" 1894C model. Feels really nice in your hands. The crossbolt safety is a non issue to me. One of mine has it and the other does not. Learn to live with either option. The sight I prefer the most is a Marble's folding tang sight. Much longer sight radius, interchangeable apetures, and adjustable for elevation and windage. When mounting this sight on the older 1894's with the serail number on the tang, care must be given to be sure there is room to mount it without obliterating the serial number.Big no-no with ATF. I personally do care for any type of optic sight on these lever guns. Looks out of place. The thing is not an M16. I also do not care for the checkering on the newer models and the fit and finish on the older models is far superior. Just my two cents, hope it helps.

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Lost in Penn's Woods