Got a Ruger SP-101 that needs a holster. Got several holsters bought for J-frame S&W's with three inch barrels. One is a Bianchi 5L, I think it is. Lined, but not basketweave stamped.

The Bianchi is marked SM REV,, and the Ruger fits okay, but the thumbsnap strap over the hammer won't stretch quite enough to snap. Lacks at least a quarter inch, no matter how hard I pull on it. Probably, the Ruger's barrel being a fraction over three inches is an issue.

So: can I wet the hammer strap with warm water and pull it enough to stretch it until it takes a set and works? (I have other rigs for my M-60-4, and the Ruger just WILL NOT fit those as well as the Bianchi No. 5, and I don't want to stretch them with the slightly larger Ruger.

My concern is that the warm water will darken the leather, although it's already deep brown, darker than most brown Bianchi holsters. And the lining is a factor. If this wasn't a lined holster, it'd be an easier decision. Can that suede-like lining be damaged that way?

Thanks,

T-Star

You should just get a holster made to fit the Ruger. Trying to wet mold the leather after it is finished can ruin it.

[QUOTE=Texas Star;1236931] Lacks at least a quarter inch, no matter how hard I pull on it. Probably, the Ruger's barrel being a fraction over three inches is an issue.

It's just a Ruger, grind off a 1/4 inch of the muzzle.

Just kidding! Happy New Year

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Dean
SWCA #680 SWHF #446

I've stretched one before. I have also removed the male snap and reset a new one closer to the end.

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John 3:16
WAR EAGLE!

Can the end of the strap opposite the snap be detached and moved the 1/4" necessary? If it is riveted or sewn I bet could be moved the amount necessary to make the snap work with your Ruger. If you have a leatherworker in your area they may be able to help with re-riveting/re-sewing the retention strap.

May have to have the portion of the strap that passes over the hammer cut, spliced, and re-sewn.

On another forum, a guy asked a similar question. He said that Bianchi just told him to stretch the strap; they don't make a Ruger-specific holster for the SP-101.

I'll browse gun shows for a holster that may have enough wear to fit, maybe a different brand.

The SP-101 is a nice little gun, and kicks less than my M-60-4, and will take .357 ammo if it's really needed in a particular scenario.

I'm not grinding anything off my gun! I'll pay El Paso Saddlery for a Ruger-specific holster if I have to. But their equivalent model, which I have for the S&W, doesn't lie as close to the body as does the Bianchi No. 5. In concealed use, that matters.

By the way, the El Paso Threepersons and their version of the old Safariland Model 29 are very well made, and I really like them when concealment isn't an issue. Their linings and basketweave stamping are wonderful to behold.

T-Star

I have a 340PD and an SP101 and the only holster I own that fits both is an open top Desantis Speed Scabbard.

I just bought holsters specifically made for each snubbie.

Yes, you can wet the leather and stretch it until the snaps line up. The leather will dry and go back to it's orginal color.
BUT, be aware that stretching the leather 1/4" is going to be a lot of stretch. Most likely it will pull the sides of the leather inwards resulting in an hour glass look. It will be readily apparent what has been done. And there will be stretch marks on the leather.
Cutting the strap and resewing can work but this fix will weaken and fail over time. Then matching the dye to the orginal will be a chancey thing at best.
My suggestion would be to contact El Paso Sadlery and have them build you a holster that fits from the git go. Or you could find a leather worker in your area and have a holster made for your gun.
If you do decide to use a local maker, ask if they are using vegetable tanned hides. If they do not know the answer, run! Some hides are chemical tanned and can ruin a metal finish very quickly.
Good luck in solving your problem.

What I did was to pay a visit to ACE Hardware, they sold me a snap kit for under $10.00. I drilled off the old snap & used a leather hole punch (or an icepick) and punched a hole 1/4" farther away from the original snap hole, then installed a new snap.