I need to glue two pieces of leather together. I am adding material to the inside of the hold down strap, so it needs to be flexible when cured. What is the best type glue for this?

Thanks


Charlie

I've use Barge Cement on leather shoe repair with good results.

There is a new forulation that is toluene free that comes in a blue and black package.

I have always used the original forulation in the yellow and orange tube. It can't be shipped by air (USPS) so buying it on line can be somewhat expensive.

It's a contact cement. Follow the package directions.

I've always bought it locally at old fashioned shoe stores, or hobby shops.

Here's what the package I've always used looks like:

MacPherson Leather: Barge Cement

When I was making gun belts I also used Barge Cement. Works very well if applied per directions. I have also used Shoe Goo or Shoe Goop, same stuff under two different names. This stuff is great and water proof. I used it to put felt soles on my fishing wader boots, they never came off ever! But it would be expensive for large area application.

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gunfighter48
NRA Life Member

I have no opinion, but I know that my former BIL, a saddlemaker, would say Barge.

+1 on the Barge Cement

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is it just me?

Barge....works great.

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Lt. Dan, what R U doing here?

Do you have a shoe repair shop in your area ?

I would check with a shoe repair shop and pay them to glue it for me. They already have glue, and the skill to use it. I would not want to buy a package of glue for a single use.

There is a local shoe repair shop in my city. Your mileage may vary ...

Bekeart

If Barge is a contact cement why not use contact cement found at Home Depot or Wally Mart??

Listed for leather

http://www.dap.com/docs/tech/00030202.pdf

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Still Running Against the Wind

Because I know that Barge cement works, and I don't know whether the other does. However, you can easily find out whether the other does, by using it, and seeing whether it harms your holster or whatever, in the end. Of course, then you might have to go back and buy the Barge cement, anyway, like you could have done in the first place. I find it easier to cash in my experience.

Depending on your local market, you may not be able to purchase barge without a business license. This is something I've run into personally. I use weldwood contact cement with good results, original formula. Cheap and effective. When I first started working leather I used Titebond wood glue. Works great but the dry times are long.

'best' is a relative term.

Tandy leather has it all.

I have some weldwood contact that I have used before, but that overwhelming vote for Barge sold me on it.

that's why I asked the question. Thanks guys

Charlie

Be sure and get the "original" formula then.

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Still Running Against the Wind

I've used Gorilla Glue on unfinished leather surfaces before and always let it set up while clamped or in a vise. May not be 'leather work correct', but I'm not sure you could pull it apart if you wanted to.

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Ret'd LEO
SWCA #2275

I have used Barge Cement and Elmer's Contact Cement. One of the projects was a fly wallet. I oiled the leather to keep it supple and off a bit of protection against water while fishing. The Elmer's contact cement gave up when the neatsfoot oil was absorbed by the leather. Just my $.02, good luck with the project.

Stinger

Gorilla Glue is terrific but won't remain flexible when it sets. Not a good glue for your application. The same people who make Shoe Goo make one called Goop. Actually make two called Goop - one for interior applications and one for exterior called Marine Goop. I've used it in situations like you're describing and it's the best I believe. It isn't a "contact" adhesive so dries more slowly - like overnight - and needs to be clamped. It's my favorite adhesive.

rolomac