I ordered an Azula holster for my 638. The price was certainly right, so I figured it was worth a try. The problem is, the leather is so stiff that the holster is practically unusable. It is formed perfectly to fit the gun, but this "locks" the cylinder into the holster so that it is very difficult to draw. The entire holster is very stiff...even when I tighten my belt pretty tight, the holster holds the belt away from my waist because it won't conform.

I know new holsters are somewhat stiff, but this is extreme. When I got a similar Simply Rugged holster for my GP100, it was definitely not this bad.

Is there anything I can do with it, or should I return it? Thanks!

I'm deducing you've one of their pancake style holsters. It's common for makers of this old style to mould them flat instead of "on the curve". And then, not only will the holster hold the belt rather than the other way 'round, but the force of the belt is clamping the gun into place. Mine, for example, have always been moulded on the curve dating since the old Bianchi Model 8 "Shadow", for example (curved rubber platens in the moulding presses).

Likely the maker doesn't even know what he's doing wrong. But wrong it is, so I would go back to the maker and ask if he'll do it right for you. It's not a "fit" until it's moulded to go around you as well as around the pistol.

A simple benchmark, is that when you eyeball through one slot, you should be able to see completely through the other one, too.

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Red Nichols The Holstorian

As usual my friend Red has the correct prescription for you. His advice
is right on. All I want to add is a visual. On the left is a holster made in
a one man shop by an old master who obviously knows what he is doing.
On the right is one made by a big major manufacturer. The one on the
left has the requisite "curve" Red mentioned. On the right is flat. Well
flat as a "pancake".

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In Omnia Paratus

First, do not treat the holster with any oils such as Neatsfoot oil or mitt and glove dressing. One technique for breaking in a holster is to put the gun in a thin dress sock, then force the gun into the holster. However, a holster that prevents the cylinder from rotating is a desirable safety feature.

The next best thing is to wear the holster around the house, Leather will gradually soften and mold itself to its environment, just like a baseball glove or new pair of shoes.

I worked for DeSantis for a few years. The most common problem we found were customers who ruined their holsters with oil and massage, then wanted us to replace the holster. I've broken in several holsters in the manner I described and all work fine.

My new Desantis Speed Scabbard is like that, ie: stiff as a board and uncomfortable to wear. I don't have the time to break in a new holster. I expect the holster to be usable right out of the box, especially considering the cost of the Desanti.

Then buy a Kydex plastic or nylon holster. They don't need to be broke in, and they're inexpensive.

Any holster made of real leather is going to require some degree of breaking in, and they're not cheap.

Thanks for the advice, guys!

Try wrapping the gun in wax paper for the break-in period.


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+1. That really does work. Wrap the gun in a few layers of wax paper and holster overnight.

The gun fits fine when in the holster. Actually, it fits too well! The holster is perfectly molded to fit around the cylinder...so much so, that when I try to draw the gun from the holster, it is stuck!

If it were mine I think I would spray a little bit of silicone inside it
and then do about a hundred practice draws.

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In Omnia Paratus

Steam it to get it nice and soft right before you wear it for the day. The gun will be fine.

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Wax paper, saran wrap, none of these actually work any better than simply putting the pistol into the holster without them! I would call the so-called "wax paper trick" a placebo effect. It's an old wives' tale that likely got its start from consumers being told to wrap a pistol in a protective layer before putting it into a re-wetted leather holster (VERY bad things happen if you do this with a steel pistol). Re-moulding a holster this way goes back to Heiser's day (which instruction makes no mention of retention being the objective, as some believe today) (for Heiser's instructions, see Packing Iron's chapter on Heiser).

If it doesn't fit, ask the maker to take it back. When they're too tight, it's caused by one of these: overheated when dried (nothing wrong with hot air drying; it just has to be at the right temperature and time and moisture evacuation); designed/constructed in such a way that it behaves differently on the belt than when on the bench (see my first post); over-moulded into the pinch points (e.g., behind the recoil shield of a revolver, into the ejection port of an auto, into the trigger guard of either). Much less likely is a too-small mould.

Don't fall for a maker telling you to "break it in" with saran wrap or wearing it around the house or "1000 draws". Mine, for example, are guaranteed to fit right out of the box: it's easy when you know how, and apparently there are a lot of makers out there who don't want you holding their feet to the fire.

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Red Nichols The Holstorian

Got a website so we can check out your holsters?

A steam softened holster is no different than one saturated with sweat, which is a great way to quickly break in a holster. Well, the biggest difference would be it's just water not salty sweat.

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In my profile, under the 'contact' tab.

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Red Nichols The Holstorian

I don't have that option in Tapatalk. Is it really that hard to just put down a damn website? On second thought, maybe I don't want to check out your work or give you my business.

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alexrex20 Red was not trying to be rude. He was trying to observe the
rules. They are quite touchy about any form of advertising in this forum.

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In Omnia Paratus

Phil's got it right: we holstermakers aren't permitted to promote ourselves on this forum unless we're also sponsors -- and sponsorship is so dear that there are NO holster sponsors that I know of on this one. Plenty have been kicked off for trying to skirt their rules, and I for one respect their rules.

I really only lurk around here to help out with (and for) the historical knowledge, because I'm a "holster tragic" and have been at this holster stuff all my life (not just my adult life). My sales are miniscule; I'm actually a designer by nature. Please don't take my response personally

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Red Nichols The Holstorian

My apologies. I know first-hand how strict and irrational the mods can be sometimes LOL.

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Hoping it is not "Streng Verboten !" (=forbidden) helping out with the link...

red nichols holsters

I suggest starting with "ABOUT RED"...(for a bit background)...

P.44

Well, now, lemme se...

Folks want guns that zero themselves, handgun grips that fit every hand like a glove, a load that shoots the wings off a gnat from their gun without ever having shot the gun to see what it likes, ammo so clean-firing that their gun never gets dirty, out-of-the-box trigger actions that suit them to a T, different guns than the ones they are used to that don't require them to learn any new shooting techniques, and now leather holsters not needing any sort of break-in. Did I leave anything out? How about Santa Claus coming once a quarter rather than once a year? :-)

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Pisgah

Use to be holsters weren't so tightly molded.....today they seem to mold them ............... "like a fat chick in yoga pants".

I've got 25 year old Bianchi and Sparks holsters that are still good to go and give good retention.....new ones are IMHO are often over molded to get "the Look".

I went through the same thing with the same brand holster for my FS M&P9, I wrapped it in wax paper, slick side out and left it a few days. The owner actually came in my thread and posted, I'm sure it could be found.

As a matter of fact it took me about 4 seconds to find it, here you go Azula Holsters

I fully agree ^^^^^^^^^

The only thing I might add is you could also try a zip lock bag (freezer version is slightly thicker) instead of a dress sock. The baggie is a bit more slippery and will be a little easier to slide into the holster with the gun. After leaving the gun in the holster a few nights, you can simply work it in and out until it loosen up slightly. Like Federali said - use NOTHING ELSE! Stiff is good, but this method will ease insertion and draw with OUT ruing the leather!

If new holsters came loose enough to allow easy insertion & draw out of the bag, then they would be too loose in short order when the leather stretched - and it does.

A tip I received from a fellow bowling pin shooter years ago is to get a new bar of soap about the same width as the gun, and shove it in the holster for a while, and then between shooting sessions until the holster takes shape. But after reading posts from more experienced guys, this tip is old as a Model T, but worked back in the day Just sayin' from an old fart

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John