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Old 01-04-2017, 09:12 PM
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My problem is the oil that was used to treat the leather to give it the medium brown/ russet color and finish has turned rancid after about 5 years of use.

The holster and extra mag carrier have spent the last 10 days sealed in a plastic bag filled with baking soda. Opened them up today and find it has not helped.

Anybody got any ideas?

Update: Took the holster and mag carrier out of the baking soda yesterday (4-10-17). The smell is mostly gone, but the leather is somewhat dried out. I put a coat of clear Kiwi polish on them and today they are much better. They are in a bag with some coffee now. I now think this salvage project is going to work. I'll post when it comes out of the coffee.

Thanks to all for the great input.


Update to update

Well the coffee did nothing, pro or conn, for the problem. It has been sitting on top of a tall chest where the ceiling fan can blow on it and it is beginning to loose some of the smell. It is still a little dried out, but some conditioner will fix that.

It, after all the treatments, is a little tight on the gun and very tight on the mag carrier. they will need a full break-in period before use.

Oh well, what is life with-out a holster project going on.
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Old 01-04-2017, 09:21 PM
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italiansport posted a couple of days ago that to get rid of a musty odor on leather you place it into a plastic bag along with some coffee. Try doing a search on the forum for "musty leather". He stated



"The ONLY treatment I found that worked on a Thompson SMG case that had been stored in a damp basement for a long time was as follows:

I put several open containers of fresh ground coffee in the case closed it up and let it set for a couple of weeks. When I opened it back up the smell and mustiness was gone and has never returned.

I would suggest you seal your holster in a plastic bag with some coffee and see what happens. BTW: I've NEVER had any luck whatsoever with Fabreeze.

Jim"

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Old 01-04-2017, 10:20 PM
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Thanks, I will give the coffee a try if another week in the baking soda doesn't work.
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Old 01-04-2017, 10:48 PM
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It depends of course on who made the holster and mag carrier, but most often, top leather and saddle makers used to use extra virgin olive oil on newly made items and then put them in the sun to get that light tan/brown color that looks like a natural finish. I would suggest that you go down to a leather shop like Tandy and get some leather solvent that is used to take the shiney finish off prior to redying and apply liberally. Then after it drys give it a good going over with saddle soap before trying your coffee or baking soda treatment. If it's olive oil that has gone bad the solvent and soap should suck it out of the leather.
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Old 01-04-2017, 11:35 PM
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It depends of course on who made the holster and mag carrier, but most often, top leather and saddle makers used to use extra virgin olive oil on newly made items and then put them in the sun to get that light tan/brown color that looks like a natural finish. I would suggest that you go down to a leather shop like Tandy and get some leather solvent that is used to take the shiney finish off prior to redying and apply liberally. Then after it drys give it a good going over with saddle soap before trying your coffee or baking soda treatment. If it's olive oil that has gone bad the solvent and soap should suck it out of the leather.
Good thought. I'll give it a try if the baking soda/coffee doesn't work. I also need to get hold of the maker and see what he thinks.
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Old 01-05-2017, 01:04 AM
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Default Saddle soap????

Would Saddle soap work on the smell?
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Old 01-11-2017, 08:32 AM
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IMHO NO OIL should EVER be used on a Leather Holster! You want a fine leather holster to break in properly and remain stiff for many years. Stiffness is needed for proper gun retention.

The ONLY thing I ever use on my holsters (and only once every few years ) is a little Kiwi Shoe Polish - that's it. This is not only my opinion, but the opinion of most Leather Holster Makers.

If it were me, I'd start over with a new quality made holster and NOT oil it - and ditch the oiled one.

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Old 01-21-2017, 07:32 AM
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IMHO NO OIL should EVER be used on a Leather Holster! You want a fine leather holster to break in properly and remain stiff for many years. Stiffness is needed for proper gun retention.

The ONLY thing I ever use on my holsters (and only once every few years ) is a little Kiwi Shoe Polish - that's it. This is not only my opinion, but the opinion of most Leather Holster Makers.

If it were me, I'd start over with a new quality made holster and NOT oil it - and ditch the oiled one.



I did not oil it, the maker did and he is a very well known maker.
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Old 01-21-2017, 02:12 PM
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Not to start a big old argument my friend, but stating that it is verboten to put any oil on a holster is just not true generally.
There are many oils, greases and concoctions of all sorts to put on leather, some not necessarily a good idea probably, but I would not generalize to say that no oil, ever is right either.
What happens with holsters, boots, saddles and other leather items is that people not knowing have a tendency to over oil.
I would hazard a guess that more holster makers do put some kind of oil on the holster after the initial molding and stitching. The problem often comes with the new owner over oiling after the fact. A little goes a long way, and there are almost as many opinions on exactly how and what and how much as there are holster makers.
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Old 01-21-2017, 02:30 PM
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OK, let me start with the usual disclaimer. I have no clue about oils on leather. I've even heard of urine cured leather. But I also don't know if holster makers are the best source for your information. They're kind of like auto makers. Their interest is in producing a product for sale. They want to make it look good and last at least until the new owner buys it. Engineered to be built, not necessarily to last. Especially forever.

I kind of wonder if there really is anyway to get the old and now rancid oil out. All I use on my leather objects is Black Rock. I'm even too chicken to use renwax on them.
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Old 01-21-2017, 02:50 PM
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try saddle soap a brush and hot water.
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Old 01-21-2017, 04:07 PM
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Let one of your smoking friends keep it in his house for a while, once the thing reeks of tobacco smoke, you'll forget about the oil smell.
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Old 01-23-2017, 04:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chief38 View Post
IMHO NO OIL should EVER be used on a Leather Holster! You want a fine leather holster to break in properly and remain stiff for many years. Stiffness is needed for proper gun retention.

The ONLY thing I ever use on my holsters (and only once every few years ) is a little Kiwi Shoe Polish - that's it. This is not only my opinion, but the opinion of most Leather Holster Makers.

If it were me, I'd start over with a new quality made holster and NOT oil it - and ditch the oiled one.
The person I learned about using extra virgin oil oil as a coloring agent from was G. William Davis of Davis leather. Gordon was a close personal friend. He was John Bianchi's partner in the early days. I doubt that you made near as many holsters as they did over the years. Olive oil doesn't soften the leather at all...a fact you would know if you've ever seen a Davis holster. He was also one of the two people who started SASS. My off hand guess is that he knows what he's talking about. Lots of leather craftsman use that technique.
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Old 01-23-2017, 04:30 PM
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If it's rancid oil, you need to get the oil out of the leather in order to get rid of the smell. Rubbing alcohol will dissolve the oil, and won't hurt the leather. You don't need to saturate the leather in the alcohol. Just wet a rag with it, and wipe the holster down, then repeat as necessary, giving the alcohol time to evaporate between sessions. When you've gotten the oil out, let it sit a while and see if it smells better, then give it a good cleaning with your favorite saddle soap.
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Old 04-11-2017, 04:55 PM
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Added update to original post.
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Old 04-11-2017, 06:43 PM
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I posted my Reyes Rehab earlier, but I will give you some details.
When I got the holster it was stained with oil/grease/persperation.

Here is my prescription:

Spray with a de-greaser like Simple Green.
Cover with corn starch and let it set overnight.
This will suck the oil up out of the leather.

Pour a small amount of Dawn dishwasher soap into a bowl
Wrap a micro-fiber cloth around 2 fingers. Dip into the
un-diluted Dawn and rub into the leather in the direction
of the grain.

When there is a big oil spill, they use Dawn to clean the
oil off from the birds.

Spray the area of the leather rubbed with distilled water.
Work up a gentle lather with your fingers. Use a soft
bristle tooth brush for nooks and crannies. Repeat until
all the stain is gone

Blot with a clean cloth. Let it dry overnight.

Third day get out your Blackrock Leather 'N' Rich. Put a
dab on a soft cloth and work it into the leather and seams.
Burnish edges and treat with a liquid scuff polish by kiwi.
Let it dry for a couple of hours, brush well with shoe brush
and buff into a shine.

I would tell you which photo is before and which is after,
but I hope you can tell.
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Old 09-15-2018, 10:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by REM 3200 View Post
My problem is the oil that was used to treat the leather to give it the medium brown/ russet color and finish has turned rancid after about 5 years of use.

The holster and extra mag carrier have spent the last 10 days sealed in a plastic bag filled with baking soda. Opened them up today and find it has not helped.

Anybody got any ideas?

Update: Took the holster and mag carrier out of the baking soda yesterday (4-10-17). The smell is mostly gone, but the leather is somewhat dried out. I put a coat of clear Kiwi polish on them and today they are much better. They are in a bag with some coffee now. I now think this salvage project is going to work. I'll post when it comes out of the coffee.

Thanks to all for the great input.


Update to update

Well the coffee did nothing, pro or conn, for the problem. It has been sitting on top of a tall chest where the ceiling fan can blow on it and it is beginning to loose some of the smell. It is still a little dried out, but some conditioner will fix that.

It, after all the treatments, is a little tight on the gun and very tight on the mag carrier. they will need a full break-in period before use.

Oh well, what is life with-out a holster project going on.
The warm water/Dawn bath and scrubbing with a sponge did some
good. The 2 warm water baths with saddle soap and more sponge
scrubbing did a little more good. A lot of brown came off. Don't
know if it was polish or nicotine.

Then the week, covered with baking soda, and sealed up in the
grip-lock bag, also did a little good.

It has been hanging outside in the fresh air and sunshine for
a couple of days. I sniffed it yesterday, and believe it is coming
along. I' m going to leave it outside for at least a week.

Then I plan to clean it with BlackRock Leather N' Rich and polish
it. Hope this rescue works. If my time is worth anything, it's
about a thousand dollar holster now.
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Old 09-15-2018, 11:24 AM
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A lot of brown came off. Don't
know if it was polish or nicotine.
If you had an urge to kick back with a beer if was probably nicotine.
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Old 09-15-2018, 02:18 PM
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As a matter of fact I am kicking back right now with a 6 pack of
Heineken and a pizza, waiting for 1:30 (Mountain Time) kickoff.
My Boise State Broncos (ranked 17) & Oklahoma State (ranked 24)
On ESPN. Should be a good one.
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Old 09-15-2018, 02:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazyphil View Post
I posted my Reyes Rehab earlier, but I will give you some details.
When I got the holster it was stained with oil/grease/persperation.

Here is my prescription:

Spray with a de-greaser like Simple Green.
Cover with corn starch and let it set overnight.
This will suck the oil up out of the leather.

Pour a small amount of Dawn dishwasher soap into a bowl
Wrap a micro-fiber cloth around 2 fingers. Dip into the
un-diluted Dawn and rub into the leather in the direction
of the grain.

When there is a big oil spill, they use Dawn to clean the
oil off from the birds.

Spray the area of the leather rubbed with distilled water.
Work up a gentle lather with your fingers. Use a soft
bristle tooth brush for nooks and crannies. Repeat until
all the stain is gone

Blot with a clean cloth. Let it dry overnight.

Third day get out your Blackrock Leather 'N' Rich. Put a
dab on a soft cloth and work it into the leather and seams.
Burnish edges and treat with a liquid scuff polish by kiwi.
Let it dry for a couple of hours, brush well with shoe brush
and buff into a shine.

I would tell you which photo is before and which is after,
but I hope you can tell.
Oh. My. God. Phil.
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Old 09-15-2018, 05:17 PM
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Oh. My. God. Phil.
That one was well over a year ago. Oh My God good or bad?
I gave the holster to someone on the forum who liked it.
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Old 09-16-2018, 10:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazyphil View Post
As a matter of fact I am kicking back right now with a 6 pack of
Heineken and a pizza, waiting for 1:30 (Mountain Time) kickoff.
My Boise State Broncos (ranked 17) & Oklahoma State (ranked 24)
On ESPN. Should be a good one.

44 to 21, have another beer, Phil.
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Old 09-16-2018, 09:58 PM
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Oil is not applied to newly made leather items as a colorant (although it does affect the coloration of the leather, and shading of dyes, to some degree). Applying oil is intended to replace some of the natural moisture removed during the tanning processes (lye to remove hair, tannic acid to stabilize the leather, repeated rinsing and drying, etc) thus allowing some degree of flexibility without the likelihood of cracking at stress points.

The above addresses good vegetable-tanned leather suitable for holsters, belts and personal accessories. The imported leathers, some produced using urine and feces (the oldest tanning method known), are not something I would want to have next to my body, nor would I want to work it by hand every day in the shop.

Olive oil (regardless of its relative virginity) is a natural vegetable oil and a food product. Olive oil can and will evaporate over time. Olive oil can and will attract rodents and insects seeking a food source.

The only oil I ever used or recommended was neatsfoot oil which is rendered and refined from the natural oil in the feet and lower legs of cattle, essentially the stuff that helps to prevent freezing and decomposition during sub-zero temperature exposure. It can rightly be called "cow oil" because it is a natural product of the same beast that produced the hide that was used to make the leather.

Everything done to tan hides and produce leather removes natural moisture from the fibrous structure of the hide. The processes involved in wet-forming a newly made holster involve quite a bit of stretching and strain applied to the leather fibers, as well as further reducing moisture levels. Without some consideration being given to these stress factors the very dry leather can more easily develop stress cracking during use (some flexibility is required in any holster design).

I always applied a light to moderate amount of neatsfoot oil to the top-grain side of the leather only (applying to the flesh side results in such rapid absorption that it is impossible to control). The neatsfoot oil does not dry out; rather, it settles naturally into the leather fibers and finds its own balance throughout the piece, remaining there permanently (OK, if you leave your holster out in the open exposed to sunlight and heat it will cook out, but with reasonable care that is not a real concern). Properly done this allows the leather to flex sufficiently that cracking is unlikely to occur.

I do not recommend additional oiling of leather beyond that done as part of the production process. The oil does not dry out, it remains within the leather, and additional applications can be counted on to accumulate until the leather becomes limp and useless for the intended purpose.

I made holsters for 43 years. I own several that are over 30 years old and still fully functional, without the slightest bit of offensive smell, mold, or mildew. The holster I am wearing right now has been in daily use for about 10 years, and has been repeatedly sweat-soaked, but remains firm and solid with every function perfect. The only maintenance any of my leather gear ever receives is cleaning with a damp cloth and a very light application of neutral shoe polish to exterior surfaces, and those functions are only called for at long intervals.
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Old 09-17-2018, 03:41 PM
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44 to 21, have another beer, Phil.
I can't comment. I'm mourning.
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