what thread? belt repair

[rustythread]

I picked up a well-used Tex Shoemaker tan floral-tooled duty belt, including a 75K holster, double speedloader pouch, cuff case, keyring holder, and belt keepers. Oily, sweaty, and stained--will be using methods learned from here to clean and restore.

I need to re-stitch where there is absence or loosening of stitching around tongue area of belt and in a couple of minor spots on other items.
QUESTION is type and size of proper thread for repairs. Present thread appears to be natural in origin, and may have been either white or "natural" originally; diameter is around 1/32", or .75-.08 mm.
Unknown date of manufacture, but it has what looks like early velcro on tabs for speedloader pouches and cuff pouch, so no earlier than mid sixties, maybe?
Am I likely to be correct in believing the original thread would have been linen, and that I should use linen to repair? Or would Shoemaker have used nylon at this time? What gauge / diameter/ # cords, etc ? I'd like to repair with thread that has a decent chance of being in-obvious when done. I have ordered packs of Ossborne 517-0, -00, and -000 needles and will have a stitching pony ( as soon as I install the new motor on my table saw)--just need to decide on thread type and size.

Thanks, all. If I ever find my camera, I'll have a buch of pics to post.

[rednichols]

Originally Posted by rustythread

I picked up a well-used Tex Shoemaker tan floral-tooled duty belt, including a 75K holster, double speedloader pouch, cuff case, keyring holder, and belt keepers. Oily, sweaty, and stained--will be using methods learned from here to clean and restore.

I need to re-stitch where there is absence or loosening of stitching around tongue area of belt and in a couple of minor spots on other items.
QUESTION is type and size of proper thread for repairs. Present thread appears to be natural in origin, and may have been either white or "natural" originally; diameter is around 1/32", or .75-.08 mm.
Unknown date of manufacture, but it has what looks like early velcro on tabs for speedloader pouches and cuff pouch, so no earlier than mid sixties, maybe?
Am I likely to be correct in believing the original thread would have been linen, and that I should use linen to repair? Or would Shoemaker have used nylon at this time? What gauge / diameter/ # cords, etc ? I'd like to repair with thread that has a decent chance of being in-obvious when done. I have ordered packs of Ossborne 517-0, -00, and -000 needles and will have a stitching pony ( as soon as I install the new motor on my table saw)--just need to decide on thread type and size.

Thanks, all. If I ever find my camera, I'll have a buch of pics to post.

Very easy. Tex started up as a full-time maker late 1960s, circa 1970 is when Neale at Safariland began building the Velcro sets. At that time Tex used only 5-cord linen thread in black unless a brown set in which case a color called 'natural'. Needle size -- one chooses a needle size with an eye that will barely slide along the thread; or use a 'jerk needle' which has a hook on one end, so stick it through the hole and pull the thread through (Tandy has 'em). We wax such thread for several reasons (beeswax) but largely so that the two threads that pass through the hole will grip and bind to each other, as a sort of 'knot' ('lockstitch' machines instead tie an actual knot with a loop inside the hole).

If you decided to use black nylon (hard to buy in small quantities) #346 is the equivalent to 5-cord. To see if your set is late enough for Tex to have switched to nylon, put a match to a loose thread. Linen will only smoulder and smoke, nylon will light and melt.

[rustythread]

Many thanks, Red! I'll pick loose a bit of thread to burn and confirm.

Another newb question: Should I do the cleaning and preservation before re-stitching? I.e., will the leather be more likely to be strong enough to resist thread cutting if cleaned and Blackrocked before I re-stitch?

[rednichols]

Originally Posted by rustythread

Many thanks, Red! I'll pick loose a bit of thread to burn and confirm.

Another newb question: Should I do the cleaning and preservation before re-stitching? I.e., will the leather be more likely to be strong enough to resist thread cutting if cleaned and Blackrocked before I re-stitch?

Do it before. Finishes are ideally applied last (why they are called 'finishes') and this blends the appearance of all the various materials -- especially thread on tan gunleather -- to give a homogeneous look.

Don't wet old leather even to clean it. Sure there will be some here who call 'b.s.' but they know the provenance of their leather. In this case you don't and I've had shockingly bad results from wetting vintage holsters. Use a damp sponge with a bit of dishwash liquid if you must. Then when dry, rely on your finish to rub what's left off the surface.