Hello, I'm shopping for a custom holster for 3" M13. Looking at several makers, Wright, Lobo, Sparks, Kramer, to name a few. Some of the makers offer a suede or smooth lining and charge for the extra option.

My questions are, do these linings offer any value? Do the reduce wear to the gun finish? Do they add bulk?

Curious and not sure I want to spend the extra $$. Any suggestions are appreciated.

This is just my opinion.
Do they offer value? I like the smooth leather lining because it is smooth and does not hold dirt like a suede lining. That to me is the reason to line the holster in the first place. The rough side of leather will hold dirt more than the smooth side.
Does it reduce wear? I think so but if you use the holster alot wear will still happen.
Do they add bulk? A little but not enough for me to worry about.
These are just my opinions and we all know what they say about opinions.

I buy from Mayhem Leather and get the smooth leather lining.

Yes, just about all my holsters are lined with Pigskin, goatskin, or suede I think it's better on the finish. some cost more but not much, don't notice anymore bulk....just my opion.............................................M*

Suede linings will trap grip and dirt. Sliding your firearm in and out causes the grit to act like grit and remove the finish.

If you must have a lining, a smooth lining is preferred.

Linings add thickness and weight to the holster, unless the maker uses a thinner leather from the start to compensate for it.

Value? Only in the eye of the beholder. I have several of each.

Kevin

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Unshared knowledge is wasted.

If you’re buying holsters off the rack at your LGS, you’ll find the cheaper holsters sold in LGSs unlined or lined with suede. These are impulse items for the new gun buyers.

I wouldn’t have suede or unlined. Properly lined holsters last much longer and are easier on the gun’s finish. They also perform better retaining shape over the years.

I use DelFatti and Milt Sparks holsters exclusively: all lined. Some have been in use for 40+ years and are still in service.

I certainly can’t imagine buying an unlined “custom” holster.

(Sometimes pigskin)

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Keep on Chooglin'

Let's take a more scientific view for the answer. A leather lining in a veg tanned leather holster is not a functional feature, like power steering on a '60s Chevelle; it's an ornamental feature like a vinyl top on that car.

Meaning, that when the veg leather has been pasted and rolled completely smooth at the tannery, and the holster maker has detail molded the leather to the pistol (both of which began in the '60s), the lining does nothing for the pistol's finish than one gets from the veg leather itself.

The smooth 'flesh' side is as smooth as the grain side (outermost layer) of both cowhide and horsehide, and the molding's original purpose was to fit the pistol so well that there were no high spots left in the leather to wear the pistol; and to keep the pistol from shifting inside the holster which then creates muzzle wear, for example. If it's NOT it's because the holster maker has chosen his leathers poorly, or has chosen to split his own leather thicknesses with a bandsplitter.

The first engineered holster, that is best known as the Brill, had a lining -- only on its fender to protect the pants, and virtually none of its lining was inside the holster. Like the infamous red dress, the lining was not there for the pistol but for the clothing.

Now I'm speaking of the thin linings one would find on a concealment holster. When one chooses a double thickness cowhide holster the game changes because it's not 'lined' in the same sense. Now the holster is thick, it's heavy, it's stiff and best suited to a gunbelt. In this case the two layers, when glued and stitched, stiffen the holster to the point where even a metal stiffener is no longer needed! And this is why an Askins Avenger stays open at the mouth w/out metal: the layered area refuses to lay flat with the rest of the thinner holster.

The absolute ideal is unlined horsehide. There is only one tannery in the West so all makers use horse 'strips' from Horween; 'shells' are stupidly expensive and used only for expensive men's shoe soles. The flesh side of the Horween leather is so smooth one can't FEEL any difference between it and the grain side. Horsehide is also so thin, but stiff, that one can never end up with a holster that is too thick, heavy and bulky. But few makers use it (and I wouldn't use anything else.

When suedes (splits) are used the added layer only takes away from holster stiffness because the cowhide m/b thinner -- the patterns were designed around unlined. The holster then becomes softer; and the total layers resist precise wet detailing to the pistol.

So: I recommend you simply skip the lining if its performance and light weight you value, and a detailed molding for wear (and darned, it looks good, eh?).

gary (2).jpg

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Red Nichols The Holstorian

Reading further in the FAQs on the Kramer website, the horsehide is smooth as glass. Most wear is caused by a loose fitting holster and the firearm shifting around.....which we already knew. But interesting comment about the horsehide.

Bearing in mind that Kramer's rep is too-tight fits. I've personally experienced this with one of the brand's holsters, and have read forum posts saying the same.

Trouble is all makers claim that so-called 'break in' is necessary regardless but that's simply false. The maker has incorrectly dried its products after molding. And horsehide is VERY hard and stiff so . . ..

The 'plastic bag trick' is a myth; don't buy into it being necessary, or even workable. Before my own retirement my horsehide holsters were guaranteed to fit right out of the box and had no complaints nor returns, so it's proven to be feasible with proper control of the drying process.

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Red Nichols The Holstorian

I line most of my holsters with a layer of veg tan that is equal to the thickness of the main holster. The majority of my holsters are for competition and need to be stiff. I'll form fit them by submersing them in warm water with dishwashing soap in it. This stiffens them

Some people like suede lining. It looks nice but doesn't give that much protection. Suede also attracts dirt and you can scratch your finish.

My speed holsters have a steel lining of 18 gauge metal and need to be formed so that the gun stays in when the holster is turned upside down but needs to release quickly. I use the heavy leather to keep the metal from getting anywhere near the holster and I've had holsters that have lasted 40 years with no problems.

Just my opinion from what works for me. Others have had different experiences.

One of my more recent speed leather holsters for my K frame.