Any penetrating oil better than Kroil?

Steave

Steave

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For me, Kroil has always been the gold standard when it comes to a penetrating oil for loosening stuck screws. I've never had a screw that wouldn't loosen up after an hour or so of an application of Kroil, most after only 10-15 minutes, but I have now met the screw that Kroil can't handle. I have applied a ton of Kroil around this screw and it has sat for more than 24 hours and won't budge a bit. It isn't rusted, just a buildup of years of dried oil, grease, etc, so I'm shocked it isn't moving, which gets me back to me original question...........

Is anything better than Kroil and if so, what is it?

Thanks much!
 
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I don't know exactly what you are trying to loosen and Kroil is the best in my book too but you may try heating the nut or bolt with a small propane tank or mapp gas then when it's hot quench it with alot of Kroil and it should come loose. If you are trying to get a screw out of a gun or anything similar disregard above. If you are trying to get a nut off a bolt heat the nut not the bolt and the heat will expand the nut and quenching it will add some lube. I have taken alot of bolts apart that have been in place for many years and heat always works but we use oxy/actelyne. Like the old saying goes "if it breaks then it needed to be replaced anyway"!
 
LOL, yep, it is a screw in a gun and while I *may* end up using a slight bit of heat, the hot wrench isn't an option. I'm just shocked Kroil hasn't done the job yet.
 
I would try soaking it good and try to tighten the screw. Maybe if you can work it back and forth a little at a time eventually it will come loose just be carefull not to bust the top of the screw off and make sure you have a proper fitting screwdriver. I use Kroil for everything it's expensive but luckily when I go for turnarounds at the local refinerys there are cases and cases of that stuff laying around, needless to say I have a lifetime supply of it! Good luck!
 
Submerge gun in kerosene, forget about it for at least a week. Then use the penetrateing oil.
 
I've tried tightening it, but like I said, it won't budge in either direction. No problem with the proper fitting blade, one of my Brownells bits fits perfectly.

Never thought about Kerosene before Kroil, that may be worth a shot.
 
best stuff i ever found was at home depot, its called pb penetrating catalyst or oil. works on most things in a few seconds.
its in a funny lookin can with a yellow top.
 
I worked in a large tool & die shop, lots of stuck nuts and bolts. Some of the guys liked PB Blaster or Nutzi-lube, I couldn't see any improvement over Kroil. I always succeeded with Kroil, sometimes prolonged soaking and/or the judicious application of heat was necessary. But Kroil always did the job for me.
 
If you can support the gun in the proper position, get the best - fitting screwdriver in the screw and tap on the end of the screwdriver handle with a small hammer, while applying some gentle twisting force to the screwdriver. Sort of what you would get with an impact driver. You may have to try in both directions, but this usually works on some very stubborn screws. I prefer this method over using an actual impact driver.

Myron
 
Kroil?

Somewhere on the 'net I read that a mix of acetone and ATFluid was the best. I personally like Kroil.

If you use the acetone, pls do not use heat, and do maximize ventilation.

Good luck,

Dyson
 
The very best penetrating oil I have used is relton R7 in a spray can. 30 years ago when I worked as a Homelite factory mechanic I used this product on concrete vibrators, it was the only product that worked for us. Not sure it is still available.
 
Regarding anoblefox's suggestion, contact the company directly at Welcome to Relton Corporation

In regards to acetone and ATF fluid, this has been circulating through email for some time, my personal test have shown it to be rather accurate:
Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results! They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist, Bud Baker.

*Don't forget the April 2007 "Machinist's Workshop" magazine comparison
test.*
**
*They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with
the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a
"scientifically rusted" environment.*
**

*Penetrating oil ..... Average load*

None ..................... 516 pounds
WD-40 .................. 238 pounds
PB Blaster ............. 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ..... 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ............ 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix....53 pounds

*The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission
fluid and acetone.*
*Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one
particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now
use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about
as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price. *
**
Your mileage may vary.....
Click to expand...

bored350
 
Take a little puddy and make a ring around the screw,
Get some oil in there and make a puddle.
Allow to set, This way it wont run away.
Interesting about acitone and ATF,
I will have to remember that
 
acetone atf

I used this home mix (1/2 acetone 1/2 ATF) on a rusty roller chain, to see what would happen, worked well. Dont know about using near any plastic or nylon.
 
Don't overlook the possibility of a thread locker being used,,especially since you say there is no rust present.
Some of the thread sealants are meant to be undone with heat and penetrating oils won't touch them. I've also run accross screws being soft soldered into place a few times.
 
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