I use Breakfree on internals and Rem Oil as an exterior wipe.

I use the Wilson Combat Ultima lines, I refused to try them because it $10 for 2oz until I got a free sample, now I'm hooked. 4 Drops does a .45 and it lasts for months. They make oil and grease. Long lasting and not one of those deals where you have use so much it makes clean up difficult.

Can there be anything else but genuine S&W oil:

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-jwk-
US Army '72-'95

Between this stuff and #2 pencil graphite for moving parts along with a quality wax for the exterior surfaces...no problems in close to 50 years of fooling around with guns and reels......

I store my Smiths in a barrel of lard. I keep the Colts in a bucket of beef tallow. The only drawback is when I go to the range, people keep trying to lick my guns.

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Wayne
Torn & Frayed

oldman, I almost forgot to add, as I am a big fan of Lucas Oil products, they also have a new LUCAS GUN OIL, out. I actually bought mine at the local NAPA store, yes the auto parts. I am looking foward to trying it in the near future. Part # is 10006 comes in a 2 oz. with a Trophy Whitetail on the bottle , cant miss it!!!

I found only one reference to Breakfree in the above posts. I'm surprised because personally I believe Breakfree is the best all purpose cleaner / lube / protectant currently available. My opinions are not based upon commercials or advertisements, but rather from personal experiences using it in some of the most adverse weather environments in the world. Regardless of freezing conditions in Korea, the steaming tropics of Thailand or the deserts of the middle east Breakfree always delivered. For me its the only choice for my personally owned firearms. JMHO...

Hoppes No. 9 for solvent, Mobil 1 Synthetic for general lube and protection, white lithium brake caliper grease for rails.

You're dead on 1SG, I've similar experiences of my own with it and concur 100%. My old grandad who served 36 years had introduced me to Hoppe's when I was a child as apparently it was in use by the Army in his day (WWI, WWII) and he swore by it. I still use it. But by the time I came in the Army, CLP, or Breakfree was the stuff of the day, and still is. The Army eased away from LSA because soldiers were not wiping it off after firing; it has no protectant and is designed to be used only during firing. When CLP/Breakfree came along, it quickly proved to be the perfect solution for the soldier's use and maintenance of weapons. For civilian modern weapons, it's a great choice if you are not sure about finishes being damaged, and is a great protectant. I still love Hoppe's, but Breakfree is a proven winner, at home, and on the battlefield. It works very well on machine guns as you well know, and everything in between.

Here is a picture of the new Lucas product I purchased at my local NAPA, should be a winner, 26

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I use Speed-X skateboard oil. It is designed to lube skateboard wheels. Does a great job - think about it - how fast do skateboard wheels go? If it can stay in place on skateboard wheels it is awesome for guns.

Bacon grease for me.
Smells great when shooting.

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-jwk-
US Army '72-'95

One more vote for "Breakfree". Although any of the lubes mentioned by others and even 3 in 1 oil or WD 40 will work OK if a light coat is applied on a regular bassis.

The best lube for any situation is one that does not run away or degrade during normal use, and which doesn't contribute to the build-up of debris in close tolerance areas. Light, mobile oils with good tenacity, like CLP/Breakfree, are excellent for close tolerance use. Applying Breakfree and then wiping it off leaves a perfectly good lubrication layer for a day of shooting.

Sometimes you want to grease up a loosely fitted slide or bearing. It's best to use a transparent, colorless grease because you can tell immediately if it starts to get dirty, and hopefully fix something that starts wearing rapidly before it fails. There is a very high quality transparent grease called "Super Lube" that I have used over a temperature range of -150 to 550 F for sustained periods (days). I used it for lubricating high-speed high-load sliding parts when I did aircraft structure testing, and it is great stuff.

I hate to say it, given some of the enthusiastic statements in this thread, but Graphite and Molybdenum Sulfide are bad choices for close-tolerance applications, because they are both prone to building up flakes, and can produce disasters under high load.

While being an excellent lubricant, it does not perform very well as a rust preventative.

Extra virgin Italian olive oil on the internals and a wipe down of the finish with "I can't believe it's not gun oil."

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Thirty characters. Exactly...

WD-40 is a WATER DISPLACEMENT (WD), it's also the 40th try to produce a usable formula as a water displacement, hense it was called WD-40.

BREAKFREE CLP is a good Clean, Lube, and Protect product.

Rusty's Rags are good for wipe down, they're Sheepskin pieces impregnated with Silicon. (Google it, I think MidwayUSA even carries them now)

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NRA Pistol/Rifle Inst. RSO

I have used this in the spray can and the bottle. I have used it to remove cosmoline and and I also used it to clean guns. I took a brown 3M pad and some of the charlies to clean the rust off of an old wood lathe that had a pipe type mount. It did a good job of removing the rust and it has not rusted again in over a year.

I started using the Slip2000 cleaner and oil because the cleaner is water based and neither the cleaner or the oil have a smell so they can be used inside and it avoids the wifey feedback that we all enjoy. The cleaner is good for milsurp ammo with corrosive primers once you get the barrels clean when you first get it. I use Kroil and JB Bore Cleaner on C&R guns when they arrive.

I also use the Shooters Choice lube on pistol slides.

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Corripe Cervisiam

I've been a Hoppe's and RemOil fan for years... but the truth be known... I usually use whatever is handy when I'm cleanin firearms. I am in the process of expanding my knowledge of oils and lubricants, though, and will be trying some of the suggested remedies. I do have a small glass vial of bear grease... hmmm... wonder how that will work? I know it works great on flintlocks!

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Isaiah 55:8-9
Phil. 4:13

Now I am using only Ballistol. I use it to clean, lube & protect. I spray it on and let it set for a bit and then brush/wipe down. If not clean I repeat. To protect: I spray lightly and rub it lightly to spread around then let dry.

There is a Eezox Dealer in the next town over. I may give him a call and buy some to try.

Vv

I use Hoppe's #9 on the bore then use Breakfree on the rest of the gun including bore. I live within 4 miles of the Pacific & salt air is rough.

I like LSA (lubricant-small arms) and have used it for many years. It is probably still available on line for around 10.00 a qt. It is an Army surplus item from the Viet Nam War. Also-lately, after reading other's experience, I am set to use some Mobil 1 motor oil on my auto loaders, especially. In my case, I have taken 20w-50 motorcycle specific oil that I drained from my MC, and then filtered through about 6 inches of paper. I ended up with about 3 qts of filtered $10.00 a quart oil. I have already used it around the house some, hinges and such, and wow, it is slick stuff. I figure it should be fine on an auto rail, etc, and what's nice is that the hotter it gets, the thicker it gets! Flapjack.

BreakFree CLP & LP have worked well for me for many many years.

As some have stated if you do good maintance it really does not matter what lube you use as long as your gun is properly lubed.

I have found when shooting an AR15/M16, as much as 1000 rounds in a single day for 5 or 10m days straight, as long as I use BreakFree I have never had any problems. I have had the gun lock up when using other products.

Also BreakFree always ranks highly in corrosion tests.

If I could have only one liquid lube, it would be BreakFree.

It is a great cleaner as well.

In high dust areas for sporting arms I like Prolix.
It dries and leaves a dry lybe behind and does not attract dust.

It works to protect leather, and wood as well.

I also use a lot of Ballistol. It is especialy good in rainy conditions and I use it for all small to medium cuts and abrasions...

Try Corrosion-X.
It truly is magic. The lubricity is very high also- BETTER than Mobil-1 synthetic.
CorrosionX for Guns

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Regards,
Lee Jarrett

I use CLP on most of my firearms as a lubracating agent and a rust preventive.

The guys down at the local Atomic Bomb Factory who drive them around and guard the facility did a study several years ago and found that CLP gave the best quality of protection and as lubricant. They also found that LSA was the best at not gumming up at cold temperatures. They did these test some years ago, so I sure there are new super duper things out now. Me, I just stick with CLP, LSA and Hoppe's Love Potion #9.

Rule 303

Yesterday afternoon I was packing for the range and noticed one of the semi autos looked a little dry. Being that I was packing in the kitchen I lightly lubed it with a little extra virgin olive oil. The pistol functioned fine and there was no unsual residue. I think what you use is less important than using something. My normal lube is Dextron ATF.

I've been using this for 7 or 8 years and I'm in agreement with Lee -beats anything I've ever seen or used with respect to rust prevention. I keep all my Smiths in their blue plastic foam-lined cases(almost a crime according to some), and not a one of them have a speck of rust on them after all this time.

It's also an outstanding lubricant, which is of course what oldman45 asked about. It doesn't run off, but also migrates to those areas one can't reach with a rag or whatever one uses to oil the gun, similar to PB Blaster the famous penetrant. I'm sold.

Andy

Cash...Visa, and Mastercard.

Makes em slide right into the safe.

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Non gratum anus rodentum

Grant Cunningham, the highly respected revolver smith, has an artticle on this. His conclusion? Automatic Transmission Fluid, as others have noted above.

Here's the article: GrantCunningham.com - Library

this is what i am currently using seems good hold's better than remoil imho.

actually he said the he thinks the lubriplate fmo aw350 is what he uses and the sfl 0 grease, it is a great article i am looking into this product if anybody has input please share how this product has worked for you.

I use Break Free CLP. I've had good luck with it over the years and like it so well I bought a gallon jug of it, sealed in the original military box, last year. I'll never use it all in my lifetime!!!
Steve

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Steve

Mobil 1 synthetic Works great on guns and also as a spru plate lube on my molds.
Dave

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Incoming fire has right of way

Mobil 1 is a great lubricant, but don't depend on it as a corrosion preventative.

FP-10 pretty much it

There is no "best" lubricant. The most correct answer is "it depends". Out in AZ, good old RemOil works just fine.

I use Rem-Oil on the slow moving parts and to wipe down the guns, I use Tetra gun grease on the fast moving parts.

Break-free CLP for cleaning and general lube, Mil-Comm TW25 on the rails.

One thing is for sure...you are going to get as many different opinions as there are responses!

I have been using Hoppes Elite, both the solvent and the oil. I tired Ballistol, and while it worked like a charm, I just couldn't stand the smell! Some like it, some don't...but I couldn't go it.

So, I ordered some Weapon Shield...and I really like it. I am still using Hoppes Elite cleaning solvent, and use Weapon Shield as a lubricant. I also got some of their brand grease for use on my 1911 slides.

Hoppes Elite is NOT a lubricant. It's a solvent and / or cleaner.

I use rem oil for what it's worth

I understand the point you are trying to make...but, to be accurate, there is a Hoppes Elite cleaner/solvent, and a Hoppes Elite oil/lubricant, so there is such a thing as a Hoppes Elite lubricant. (I still have a few bottles of the oil on my shelf, BTW.) I think what you are trying to say is that Hoppes Elite is not a CLP, all-in-one product.

Lubriplate slf 0 aluminum based white grease on rails. It's super thin and holds in place. Believe it or not my semi autos actually perform better with it, especially 3rd gens where its metal on metal. I'm still using Hoppes oil where I need oil.
Find lubriplate at lubrikit.com. I put some on the metal parts in my Sigma's sear and I believe it dropped the trigger from 7# to 6#. No, I'm not working on commision, just like the stuff.

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Hold on. SWAT's at my door.

As to previous posters question, the lubrikit comes with a bottle of aw 350, but I've never used it. It's for food service equipment so I didn't want it on my guns. Call it a quirk.

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Hold on. SWAT's at my door.

Todays lube technology is like splitting hairs. They are all good, it becomes a matter of personal choice really.

I just took a look at the owners papers for my new 642-1 and it says, "Purchase cleaning supplies . . . that are specifically designated for your type and caliber of firearm. . . . Choice of solvent should be restriced to those products specifically developed for firearms maintenance. Damage to a firearm's finish may occur if these cautions are ignored. Ammoniated solvents or other strong alkaline solvents, should not be used." Pretty obvious that they want us to use specific firearms-intended products and not motor oil or generic things like 3-in-1 or WD-40.

I use Break-free for about everything, Tetra white grease for autoloader rails. Joe

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Wisdom chases me; I'm faster

Over the years I have used just about everything.
From the specialized gun lubes to Mobil 1.
The only lube I have found that stands out from the rest is Slipthream and Slipstream Styx from Crusader weaponry.
The stuff is absolutely amazing.
I use it around the house and on my vehicles also.
Be very careful where you use it.
The doors on my Ramcharger no longer hold open on an incline, and a buddy has a chevy truck that will lock the doors if you slam them now.
Crusader Weaponry - Shop


Jim

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Big bullets leave big holes

Oil Wars.....gotta love 'em!

Grant Cunningham has it right.

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...east wind...rain...

Mobile 1. Wipe it on, wipe it off. After using it several times, you can tell the difference.
Sythetic grease when grease is called for.