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  #101  
Old 07-10-2012, 03:14 PM
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Originally Posted by enfield View Post
I've been using Mobil 1 for years. I think a quart will last several lifetimes.

This
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  #102  
Old 07-10-2012, 04:10 PM
Erno86 Erno86 is offline
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I've read that semi-synthetic motor oil is one of the best. Rem Oil gums-up like WD-40. I just bought a Sharps Carbine, using paper patch bullets. I froze the action after the third shot. Luckily...I had two experienced Sharps carbine shooter's, standing next to me at the range. One of them told me that --- during the Civil War, some soldiers had to piss on the dirty action, just to get it to function.

So one of the fellow Sharps shooter's comes over with a spray bottle mixture of: 1/3 Simple Green, 1/3 hydrogen peroxide and 1/3 rubbing alcohol and a rag. It worked wonders on the action --- then he used high-pressure plumbers grease to lube up the action. Another Sharps shooter told me to use Pam cooking oil spray on the breech face of the Sharps action. So... I've been using the Pam cooking oil spray on the actions of my 22 dedicated uppers just recently; and I will use the three part Simple Green mixture on my guns when I shoot corrosive ammo or black powder.
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  #103  
Old 07-10-2012, 06:22 PM
july1952 july1952 is offline
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I like G96 Gun Treatment. Cleans and lubes plus, you can use it indoors because it actually smells good.
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  #104  
Old 07-10-2012, 07:51 PM
kal45 kal45 is offline
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I clean and lube with CLP and put TW-25b on the rails. Once every few months and according to use I blast everything metal with Gun Scrubber then make sure I get everything re-coated with CLP.
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  #105  
Old 07-11-2012, 05:43 PM
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Default without a doubt for me .....

PROLIX cleaner , lubricant , & preservative all in one .

it is a non- petroleum product and made for firearms .
i have a large supply i ordered a few years ago . try to get up their web-site , if they are still in business.

truly really good stuff !!
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  #106  
Old 07-11-2012, 08:18 PM
guy22 guy22 is offline
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Originally Posted by oldman45 View Post
Right now I am using either Hoppes Elite or Hoppes # 9

Which lubricant do you use? Is there any that really makes you feel is better than another?

I am not locked into any type but would like to make my next bottle the best choice.
Everybody knows that WD40 in the spray can is king.
Why use anything else???

Guy22
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  #107  
Old 07-13-2012, 01:28 AM
Megzamani Megzamani is offline
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Been using Frog Lube. Really great stuff. Anyone have any words on this. I seem to be starting to be a spokesperson on it as when I am making my YT videos i sometimes add in what I am using to lube/clean/protect with. Thanks
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  #108  
Old 07-13-2012, 02:44 AM
bluegrassarms bluegrassarms is offline
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A vote here for Mpro7 Gun Oil as well as Mpro7 cleaner. No smell with either, and the oil has done well. The newer "LPX" has a cleaning agent to repel dirt. Haven't used it yet. It's not cheap but oil goes a long way. Have yet to find the perfect cleaner or oil but Mpro's as good as I've found and the lack of smell is a big plus.
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  #109  
Old 07-13-2012, 08:17 AM
Goldstar225 Goldstar225 is offline
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There have been more oils and lubricants recommended in this thread than I can keep track of. They all have one common theme for their users... they are all happy with the protection afforded their guns.

The bottom line IMO is clean your firearms, wipe them down with the oil/lubricant of your choice after each cleaning and handling and they can be passed down to your grandchildren.
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  #110  
Old 07-14-2012, 03:19 PM
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Sperm Whale Oil

Mobil1 and Lubriplate for me. I'm just glad we got past the stuff above ^
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  #111  
Old 07-25-2012, 11:47 PM
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I just recently purchased a product called Ballistol. So far, I have found it to be flawless! It is a all in one cleaner, lube, and oil. It can be used on wood, plastic, metals etc... I have used Hoppes 9 or CLR for years, but I will be recommending this product for anyone who wants the best.
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  #112  
Old 07-26-2012, 12:26 AM
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I find the tears of my vanquished foes women works well.
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  #113  
Old 07-26-2012, 09:29 AM
Megzamani Megzamani is offline
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Ohh. I have been noting to try that stuff. It is not sold local here though
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  #114  
Old 07-26-2012, 11:56 AM
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Default Hoppe's #9 and Elite

I bought the Hoppe's #9 Solvent and the Hoppe's Elite gun oil.
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  #115  
Old 07-26-2012, 01:21 PM
Megzamani Megzamani is offline
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My skin is getting really sensitive as I get older and taking heart meds. I really like the green lubed. Frog lube
Mpro mildpec I want to try and ballistol is one I want to try
I do like the frog lube. Does anyone know what this stuff is made of. It says over twenty natural plant oils and wintergreen oil
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  #116  
Old 07-26-2012, 01:50 PM
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To my way of thinking this will vary per the type of gun, how it is used and what the manufacturer recommends. For most of my revolvers and pistols I use Hoppe's solvent to clean and Rem Oil to lube.

Glocks are "dry" guns I only use solvent on the rail cuts, feed ramp and bore. Glock requires you leave the bore and feed ramp dry. Oil the slide rail cuts very sparingly. you do not want to get oil in the firing pin channel. One drop on top of the trigger connector, one drop on the outside of the barrel and lug and that's about it.

My little KelTec P-32, for example calls for using GREASE in certain areas. I do this because it is recommended but I really don't like using grease because it can "accumulate" and attract dust and dirt. I don't use it on any of my other guns.

My Colt 6920 AR-15 is a different matter. I use CLP on this. The frequency of use and cleaning I use I prefer to run it wet. I feel like this helps protect and lubricate somewhat more efficiently that running it dry. CLP is pretty thin and some believe that over a period of time it evaporates. I don't worry about that for mine because I shoot it at least once a month. Before I go to the range with it I run a couple of dry patches through the barrel and I'm all set.

On a side note I don't shoot solid lead ammo in any of my guns. Lead fouling can mess up the bore and be very hard to clean properly. This minimizes gun cleaning issues for me.
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  #117  
Old 07-26-2012, 03:34 PM
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I heard that ppl use WD-40 on Taruasess
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  #118  
Old 07-26-2012, 05:48 PM
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...another Mobile 1 user.

All of my guns seem to like it, especially the 1911's, they love that stuff. I've been on the same quart for years....
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  #119  
Old 09-17-2017, 06:37 PM
Sylvaticus Sylvaticus is offline
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Default Old thread on current topic

This seems to be an archetypical thread on a topic that keeps re-surfacing. Several comments caught my eye.

The household friend, 3-in-1 oil came and comes in several formulations; today's are pretty good household lubes. Without a doubt, the chemical makeup has been much improved over the years. The one for electric motors us actually a 20-weight engine oil. Detergent-free, it is excellent for air guns.

But I can recall several gunsmiths swearing at (not by) 3-in-1 in the 70s when I started shooting seriously. All had seen actions gummed up when the oil was applied and allowed to sit for several years. It turned to gum and varnish, and was h*ll to remove!

As for WD-40 . . . Well, they are your guns. Abuse them as you wish. I think the stuff is great for rinsing grit off of tools, bicycle chains, and guns. It will prevent rust under damp conditions for about 36 - 48-hours. But it is neither a good lube, cleaner, or longer-term rust preventative. You can find independent testing done on WD-40 and other products on the Brownells website. Really, the stuff isn't much more sophisticated than a sort of kerosene with a couple of additives. Google aroound, check the MSDS, and you'll see. Yes, I have a can at hand, but mainly to displace moisture and rinse away sand and other grit. (I did know one gunsmith who stored his many go-no-go chamber rifle gauges in tubes filled with WD-40, an inventive and apt use.)

There is some strange sentiment expressed here that the "old-timers" were not fussy about what oils, greases, and cleaners they used on their firearms. This is total bosh. I know this from my own maternal grandfather who lumberjacked in Maine prior to WWI (he lived to 98). He carefully instructed me to use products marketed by the big gun companies, but that sperm whale oil had been long considered the best lubricant for actions when available. Years later, a fine shooter who was a watchmaker (not "repairman") said the same about sperm whale oil to me.

Curiously enough, Ed Harris (the "Ed" of "Ed's Red") noted that modern auto transmission fluid was developed as a substitute for sperm whale oil, because the latter had excellent qualities as a lubricant but had become unavailable due to WWII. In the 1970s, Jojoba oil was in vogue in some cicles; plant-based, it shares many properties with sperm whale oil. I wonder if it is used in any products today. One can purchase a highly purified product at Trader Joe's, where it is marketed as a skin oil. (Might be worth a try?). It is very light, resembling RemOil in this respect.

Ned Roberts also documents the care with which serious hunters and shooters chose their lubes in the 19th and early 20th centuries. Roberts was uniquely placed, as he was raised on muzzle loaders, but of course helped usher in the era of high velocity rifles with his development of the excellent .257 Roberts. (This is still a fine cartridge, albeit one overshadowed by the champion .25-'06.). In his book, The Muzzle-loading, Caplock Rifle, Roberts explains how black bear fat, carefully rendered until it yielded a water-white oil, was universally prized among skilled shooters as a non-gumming lubricant. I am sure he mentions sperm whale oil somewhere as well. Read this fine volume, and among the many things you'll take away is a knowledge that those shooters argued about lubricants back then, too.

The advent if CLP-type, teflon-bearing products in the 70s was a game changer, but people forget products such as Dri-Slide (with moly-D) were also coming onto the market. They were excellent as well.

Just because gun oil and greases are repackaged and repurposed products actuálly made in volume for other uses, it does not mean they have not been chosen for specific properties. So while I have been using Mobil 1 in my auto, motorcycle and lawnmower engines since 1975, I haven't used a drop on a firearm. Mobil 1 contains many additives of absolutely no value on firearms, ones which potentially could be detrimental; it also lacks some which are need (mainly those to prevent rust). A transmission product actually comes closer to filling the bill. However, when I need moly-d, I buy an auto product at NAPA. A little goes for the guns; most goes into the crankcase.

Oils DO have shelf-lives, by the way. This is no surprise (I am a university chemist). For engine oils, it is about three years or so if storage is in a cool place (this is according to Valvoline, as I recall). After that, the additive package and oil base start to break down.

One surprise in this thread is that no-one burnishes metal parts with moly-D powder! I have much more enthusiasm for this lubricant than for telflon (ptfe, etc), for several mechanical and chemical reasons. Brownells offers a number of fine moly-d products. The cost per use is trivial. You can also mix a bit of their moly-bearing grease into another grease; the same can be done with moly-d auto greases.

Lest anyone think shooters face a bewildering range of lubricant issues, consider those used in fine instruments. I re-build and sell older fine microscopes. Perhaps the best I personally own is a Swiss-made M20 Wild compound microscope from the late 1950s. It is considered by many to be the finest microscope ever built. While parts are interchangable, the final assembly included hand-fitting, and over 25 different greases and oils were used. 25+! This may explain why such a 'scope cost $7000 (and up) back then (before my time!).

One of my main problems is finding the right lubricant when bringing an old, but still potentially fully-functional world-class instrument back into service. Usually a large part of the job is re-lubrication, and not actual repair (and yes, the manufacturers recommend using today's best lubricants!). One grease I use - a "must" with no substitutes- costs over $55 per ounce. Believe me, you instantly know when you employ the wrong lube!

My microscope experience (I am an elected member of the Royal Microscopical Society) has given me immense respect for the opinions of Grant Cunningham on firearms lubrication. If you have not read his essay, google it. Then buy the products. Use what ever cleaner you want, then use the lubricants recommended by this top Colt gunsmith.
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  #120  
Old 09-17-2017, 07:14 PM
Zipdog Zipdog is offline
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Originally Posted by rburg View Post
Time for a little common sense, or a reality check. You don't need the best lubricant. You don't even need one of the best. Almost any old lube will do. When you think about it, cost needs to be considered.

I've got a couple of old guns. They date from 100 years ago onward. Somehow they all survived without the benefit of today's wonder lubes (and wonder prices.). Most look so pristine you'd guess they came off the production line yesterday. But instead they've spent at least the last 70 or more years stored someplace. Not together, either. The guns can't talk. We all wish they could.

We've guessed over the years the owners, and I'm sure with most its plural, used what they had. It wasn't the same thing, because they had no idea what the last guy used. And almost all of the products worked.

The 3 in 1 oil is an interesting product. Almost no one recommends it for any serious use. Except I feel pretty certain the unwashed gun owners in the past used it with great success. The more recently hated substance is WD40. Almost no product elicits more hatred. Yet many of us have used it with good results. I think its probably the best gun first aid product ever made. A lot of people use it exclusively. Many of them own guns that are still very nice.

Something else we haven't discussed is need. We've got a big forum here. We've got folks who live on the salt flats of Utah and the coastlines of the Atlantic and Pacific. Others live in places where even a car body sanded to bare metal won't rust because there is no moisture. And some live in the cold wastelands with temps often below zero. Others live in the deserts where its hotter than hell. We don't all require or want the same products. Some lubes evaporate, others turn to concrete with cold. One product may not fill all of everyone's needs.

Me, I use what I can lay my hands on, mostly. I do have some RemOil that works pretty darn good on safe queens. And I've got both CLP and CLP collectors. I've got an aged Browning that has only seen the original can's of Browning gun oil. Not rusted yet.

My conclusion: It just doesn't matter.
The only down side to your and mine thinking is we don't have any bragging rights to have bought the latest snake oil. Anyone with any sense at all wouldn't fall for those miracle lubricants claims. Pure hogwash and a waste of money.
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  #121  
Old 09-17-2017, 07:19 PM
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Uh oh !! Me having major flash backs on a motorcycle forum on whats the best oil. Lol it got very heated and ugly
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