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Old 07-10-2011, 07:24 PM
jkmo jkmo is offline
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Default Best way to get rust off blued barrel

Thinking about a purchase of a gun with some rust on the end of the barrel (blued revolver). What's the best way to get it off wit the least damage ?

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Old 07-10-2011, 07:27 PM
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First soak the rusted part in penetrating oil, such as Kroil, for a few hours, and with it still wet with the oil, gently rub with some "copper" wool. I've been told a Chore Boy scrub pad works, but I have not used one myself. You may need to repeat this several times, depending on the amount of the rust. Do not rub too hard, as you can remove the bluing.
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Old 07-10-2011, 07:31 PM
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I used oil and 0000 steel wool on the barrel of my 92f...took off all the rust and left most of the finish.
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Old 07-10-2011, 07:33 PM
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Yes, some bronze wool commonly found at good hardware stores (not usually found at "home improvement" places) is best. Don't use a penny! Well, you can- but it has to be made before 1982. The post 1982 pennies containing zinc will scratch the metal once you get through the thin copper outer layer. If it is heavy rust, take a brass (not nickel plated or aluminum) .22LR fired case and smash the end together and use it as a scraper- it won't scratch the metal, but it will leave brass on the metal which you can get off with solvent and a cloth.
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Old 07-10-2011, 07:36 PM
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I agree with soaking but I have soaked for a day or two just to really try and let oil work its magic. Steel wool will work, but copper or bronze wool is preferred. The steel wool can supposedly get into the pores or something and cause more rust later. I haven't seen that problem before, but it sounds plausible enough that I found some copper wool. My personal trick was to soak in penetrating oil for as long as I could stand to wait and then use a nice thick oil for gently scrubbing.
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Old 07-10-2011, 09:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sipowicz View Post
I used oil and 0000 steel wool on the barrel of my 92f...took off all the rust and left most of the finish.
I agree. The only thing I could add is polishing the area thoroughly afterwards with Flitz metal polish. It's worked for me!
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Old 07-10-2011, 11:34 PM
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Default Chore Boy WORKS!

Quote:
Originally Posted by H Richard View Post
First soak the rusted part in penetrating oil, such as Kroil, for a few hours, and with it still wet with the oil, gently rub with some "copper" wool. I've been told a Chore Boy scrub pad works, but I have not used one myself. You may need to repeat this several times, depending on the amount of the rust. Do not rub too hard, as you can remove the bluing.
I use Chore Boy and they work fine. Cheap and available at local grocery. Immediate delivery and no shipping charges. Only ACME delivering to Wilie Coyote has better service.

I keep an oiled one in and old prescription bottle under my table at shows. Loaning it out to some other dealers made them converts.

For removing rust I use motor oil. Figure the detergent in the oil might help. Wipe with cloth frequently and rinse the Chore Boy. While the copper is soft, the suspended rust particles are hard enough to scratch the blue.

Bekeart
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Old 07-11-2011, 12:20 AM
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i also posted in pre 61 section before i saw yours, was told big 45 frontier metal cleaner. i havn't tried yet,who knows, anyone else ever try it?
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Old 07-11-2011, 01:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by H Richard View Post
First soak the rusted part in penetrating oil, such as Kroil, for a few hours, and with it still wet with the oil, gently rub with some "copper" wool. I've been told a Chore Boy scrub pad works, but I have not used one myself. You may need to repeat this several times, depending on the amount of the rust. Do not rub too hard, as you can remove the bluing.
Amen Brother!
Never use steel wool. Copper or stainless wool with lubricant is best. An old gunsmith trick is an old nickel with a little oil to flake rust off. Light on the hand is the rule.

Good Luck.
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Old 07-09-2017, 02:30 AM
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Good info in here. Thanks

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Old 07-09-2017, 06:51 AM
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I'll go against the consensus here and say to use a flattened rifle case as a scraper. Do it dry, you want the rust to fall away as it is dislodged. Usually I find a big rust spot is growing on top of the bluing from a small pin hole.

After be sure all the rust dust is gone then rub with an oil rag. The key is remembering the rust dust will scratch the finish.
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Old 07-09-2017, 02:48 PM
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4-0 steel wool - kroil
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Old 07-09-2017, 03:41 PM
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kroil soak, then a kroil soaked lump of bronze wool, then rinse with kroil and wipe down.
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Old 07-09-2017, 04:28 PM
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Would the Kroil & bronze wool technique work on these? It looks like freckling, but they stand a little proud of the surface. This is a blued 15-3.




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Old 07-09-2017, 05:44 PM
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After rust freckles have achieved a foothold, nothing will remove them completely, short of a re-finish. Light oil (or bore cleaner) and copper wool pads like "Chore Boy" (many supermarkets carry it) will do about all that can be done without further damaging the original finish and will make the area look better. If you are not an absolute purist, dabbing a little cold blue in the area (I like Brownell's Oxypho Blue) after the oil/copper wool treatment and following de-greasing might help hide the damage a little more. But it won't go away.
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Old 07-09-2017, 07:10 PM
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I'm in agreement with the above comment.

If you use a cold blue, apply it with a small piece of 0000 steel or copper wool, rubbing lightly. It'll help blend the blue and ensure a smooth finish. Wipe it off after about a minute with a soft cloth and repeat if necessary. Thorough degreasing with denatured alcohol or 90% rubbing alcohol will ensure better results.
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Old 07-09-2017, 07:58 PM
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I always keep a small bottle of acetone near my workbench for occasional degreasing, but MEK or mineral spirits will also work OK. Back when I was rebluing lots of pistols, I always wiped everything with MEK (very similar to Acetone) instead of boiling them in a silicated detergent solution prior to going into the bluing tank. It worked better, with many fewer re-dos needed.
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